Holy Kailash manasarovar yatra (indian side) 2000 .. A DREAM COME TRUE.. part 1..english book

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Om Namashivaya..

After my Pilgrimage to Holy Kailash Manasarovar yatra in 2000 through Indian side, and in 2002 by nepal side, i wrote this book which was published and distributed through Higginbothams and giri trading and well received.. that was in 2002...2003..All the collection from this book was given to renovation of Shiva temple in my ancestor village Panditakudi near koothanallur, thanjavur dt tamilnadu,,with contributions from all -the kumbabishegam completed successfully.

With blessings of God, I have been to this holy place further 4 times (by nepal side through Ramakrishna yatra service chennai (Anand ji) and eco trek nepal (Bimal ji).. totalling 5 times (5 the number auspicious for Shiva ...).

With His blessings completed dharshan of 12 jyothirlingams and recently in 2018 Yamunotri with further up to glaciers.. Earlier i have been to Gangothri with further up to Gomuk, Tapovan, and Badrinath and Kedarnath)..thus completing CharDham.

I have added my other writings to visits to holy places in this blog recently in 2018 after I took off from my work and thought to add this book also here.. i could not get 'word' version of part 2 (pilgrimage by nepal side) which i will add later.

Readers should appreciate this book is in settings of 2000 and in this 18 years this area is vastly improved with excellent roads and bridges.. you can enjoy the feeling of year 2000,when few south Indian yatris took this yatra...

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                         om namasivaya

      

       A   DREAM    COME    TRUE

“Sir, you have been to Amarnath.  Very happy.  All Hindus must go there.  But sir, you should go to Kailash. The Ultimate. This year I went there and had the fortune of darshan of kailashnath”.

I was very proud internally and whenever I talked about my Amarnath yatra with my colleagues and family members, the internal pride came out and narrated them about the journey.  Whatever I had seen and heard about our proud jawans who came victorious after capturing Dras, which was near the yatra route, and other peaks near Kargil were narrated with interest.  Amarnath yatra of 1999 naturally had national feelings apart from religious.

I was leaning backwards in my office chair, when one of my staff came to me and enquired about my Amarnath yatra.  With pride, I narrated the happenings during the yatra.  Then the slap on my ego came. “ I had been to Kailash this year. You have to go there”.

I stood up. With folded hands I asked him to sit down.  With interest I enquired about his Kailash yatra.  My mind opened up.  Kailashnath entered there.

I was dreaming about Manasarover from my childhood. Stories of manas lake with golden royal swans swimming, parijatha and other rare flowers blossoming, deers and other rare animals on its shore, Gods and Goddesses come there for bathing  - has taken me to a level where I thought manas is open only for Devas and not for ordinary souls.  Over the years I happened to read more and more books about Manas, with occasional articles in newspapers written by foreigners.

I am a normal – devoted person – who prays lord Ganesh with interest and other Gods and Goddesses with a salute and small application of vibuthi on my fore head and whenever I pass a temple, during travel, bow the head for a second and proceed.  I had been to Sabari malai in the long route for 12 years for jyothi darshan.  The holy sabari yatra would be done bare foot for 48 km – in testing terrains.  The yatra gave very good experience in mountaineering. In the initial years of the yatra we used to cook our own food on the hill.  It gave immense satisfaction physically and mentally.  The experience of caring for others naturally developed, since the team has to perform as a team in the crowd of lakhs of people. 

The Amarnath yatra which I went in 1999, was certainly religion based but also motivated by national flavour.  I wanted to be in the battlefield.  I have noticed in my life- I wanted to be in the midst of wherever adverse conditions are there. In fact on the day of my travel at Pahalgam, I have noticed a lot of young yatris pinning national flag on their shirts.  Such was the mood.  I went alone for the yatra but gained many friends who helped me in the hour of need, wherever I faced problems.  A memorable experience.

But, to pray at Lord Shiva’s feet requires his blessings.

The religious feelings, which were certainly there in my mind, were blown when I thought about Kailash yatra.  My mind was filled with joy about the trip.  When I told my father and mother for permission they immediately blessed and encouraged since no one from my family ever visited kailash.  My wife and son showed keen interest.

I was looking for the advertisement for kailash manasarover yatra in newspapers. (Normally in January).   My attention shifted from sports section to advertisements.  On shivarathri day I filled the application form and posted it to the External Affairs Ministry. 

I waited with anxiety to get the telegram from External Affairs Ministry. (Around 500 Yatris will be selected from computer-based lot among the applicants).  Meanwhile, a lot of unpleasant enquiries and mental disturbances were there in my official career.  I totally surrendered to Lord Shiva, to overcome these setbacks since internally I know I did not do any wrong things that benefited me.   I came to know in July, that the lists of yatris were released.  I did not get any information. Through my friend in Delhi, I came to know that I was not selected but waitlisted. I was crestfallen.

I knocked all the doors.  I have not asked any help from anybody. I felt nothing wrong in taking help for this yatra.  I met very senior officers in the Railways (where I work) and requested their help.

I started my daily abishek and chanting of slokas, which I never did in my life.  The chanting of Sanskrit slokas were very amateurish initially  (though I studied Sanskrit in my elementary school days!) but certainly had bakthi.  I prayed a photo of kailash – north face, which I purchased at Naganath temple at Gujarath a year back praying for dharshan.  (Infact, my mother told me to put a photo in the pooja room and pray daily for kailash darshan referring to a chat she had with a fellow passenger who was returning from Kailash in the previous year).

As the face shows the mind, one of my staff (a classmate in Sanskrit classes at the age of 10) came to me and enquired.  When I opened up he told me about a Shiva temple in Parvada malai. (Near Thiruvannamalai – one of the Pancha Bootha –five elements- temples).  He took me there. It was a wonderful yatra. The 14 kms were full of nature with lot of ups and ups. (One has to climb holding steel rods in a cliff –walking over narrow steel beams to cross valleys – walk in a narrow path holding the hill on one side) - one has to experience it to believe.  I prayed Shiva and Parvathi, staying there in night at the temple at hilltop.  A swamiji residing there gave me a rudraksha malai and blessed me for the trip.

I continued my poojas at the home.  Now I can recite many slokas without seeing the book.  I was gaining confidence.  But in my inner mind I had worries.

May be this is His way of correcting people. -  By giving them test and lead them to the correct path.

By the grace of God, I received the telegram. I was selected to perform the yatra in the 15th batch, starting from 1^st sep 2000.   When my wife called my office and informed me, my mind was filled with emotions. I thanked all people who helped me. Kailash Yatra is not a yatra by an individual – it involves help from many people.  They lift the yatri to a certain height from where it will be easy to perform.  The help   is in various forms.  By way of monetary support, support for the family, support in work during absence and many unknown ways.

I had about 45 days time.  I applied for leave and since it was a foreign trip (kailash – manas is in Tibet now under china), my superiors showed much interest and sanctioned leave.  In the detailed booklet sent by the Ministry Of External Affairs, the list of medical tests to be done was given.  All the tests were taken.  All yatris to ensure that the results are within specified range.  They should consult doctors with the result and discuss the results, to avoid any possible problems later. I sent Rs.2000 (advance) as per the instruction letter in favour of KMVN (Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam, New Delhi, through under secretary, external affairs ministry, Newdelhi).  The expenses on the Indian side to KMVN were around Rs.8000/-. In addition we had to pay US $ 500 to Chinese side and us $ 150 towards personal expenses in china side.  We had to take equalent amount (around rs.35000) to Delhi.  Passport is a must and its validity should be at least 6 months after the end of the yatra.  Indemnity bond as given in the booklet should be filled as instructed.  I had to report to hotel Indrdaprastha (Ashok yatri nivas) New Delhi on the 29^th august 2000.  I was slowly preparing for the yatra.

Chennai is in the hot zone. As the saying goes, there are 3 climates in chennai. Hot, hotter & hottest.  But we know the climate in kailash will be totally different.  The booklet gave a list of dress materials to be bought.  I consulted the yatris who had gone before.  I could find few only.  Unlike in North India, there is not common platform for yatris to assemble and it does not have Govt. Support also.  The few yatris who complete the yatra were scattered all over south India.  The yatris I had consulted went in July.  My programme was in September. I did not want to take any chances.

  I bought a leather jacket from my relative who goes to Europe often. I had one woolen jacket already (which I had purchased for the Amarnath yatra).  I bought one sweater (I did not have one previously) a pair of woolen socks, woolen glouse.  The sunglass (ray ban), which I had purchased earlier, came handy.  One of my friends told me about ‘Thermal wear’ (like banian cloth) and I purchased that also (it helped me much in cold climate).

A good pair of shoes is a must.  I bought a costly adidas shoe, which gave problems while walking, and later a ‘hunter shoe’ from bata (rs.175), as per the advice of a friend.  I took only the hunter shoe.  I decided to purchase my second shoe at Delhi.

With family I went to the Shiva temples at Kancheepuram, Sri Kalahasthi, Thiruvannamalai, and collected small stones from each temple and sand from Rameshwaram.  I did pooja for all the moorthams daily.  I went to tirupathy and prayed lord Balaji to help me in getting darshan of lord Shiva at Kailash.

With my father I had dharshan of Guru, HH Jayanthra Saraswathi swamigal of Kanchi math.  He blessed me for the successful completion of the yatra and gave a Rudraksha mala.  Swamiji wanted me to take a photo of “Adi shankara” idol installaed by him at the base camp of Kailash.

My mind was full of expectations of the yatra.  As per the booklet I started my walking practice (at least 5 to 10 km a day) – honestly I did not do that much.  Since my flat was on the 3^rd floor I decided not to use the lift for climbing up. (But most of the times the reverse thing happened.  I used the lift for going up and stairs for coming down).  With my son I started going round the colony singing Shiva songs for half an hour at 9 pm.  To avoid problems later, I suggest regular walking / swimming / yoga / pranayam to be done and should be started at least 6 months in advance.  Learning pranayam during the yatra  (as I did) will not be of much use.

I have taken lot of photography both still and video during my earlier yatras to Sabarimalai and Amarnath.  Since kailash is of longer duration I bought extra info lithium battery of higher capacity, 6 rolls of films, 4 cassettes, 8 pairs AA size alkaline batteries.  I went to Sony service centre to take guidance for taking video in sub zero temperature. (They advised me to wrap it in woolen shawl and take it near the kitchen or wherever heat was there). I wanted to cover the whole yatra, whatever I have seen, in video, from home to home so that my family members, friends and others who could not come with me can also see and feel through my eyes.  I prayed lord Shiva.

Slowly the D-day came.

From the morning, my family & myself started packing whatever I had collected so far.  I bought 2 ‘samsonite’ bags (2 feet length) in which I packed winter clothing to be used in only cold temp in one bag (green bag) and normal cloths, medical reports and other things for daily use in the other bag (blue bag). Camera (handy cam, still camera) and accessories, pooja icons (shiv lingams, ganesh, nandhi), silver bilva leaves, stotra books, passport, cash, tickets etc., were put in the camera bag which I was going to keep always with me. Photocopies of passport and medical reports were kept in ‘green bag’.  I bought 3 number locks for locking the bags.   Hard suitcases are not allowed for the yatra.

It is time to leave chennai.

I have seen how holy Haj yatris are treated and sent off in railway stations.  My heart was filled with the warmth extended by my family members and friends at the railway station.  The garlands, fruits, prasadams of temples offered by them, I had never got as yatri before.  I prayed lord Shiva that such a holy yatra should be completed without any trouble.

The train (TN express) started moving.  Cries of ‘Kailashnath ki jai’ went up in the platform.  As the train moved forward, I felt all my worries going backwards clearing my mind. As the train approached New Delhi Railway station, the expectations of the yatra – batch mates – accommodation etc., occupied the mind.

Initially, I stayed in the officers’ rest house of railways at the station and put my luggage in the room.  After a bath, I went to Ashok Yatri Niwas (hotel Indraprastha) our base camp in Delhi.  I enquired the receptionist about 15th batch and identified me with the telegram received by me. She allotted me a bed in a room to be shared by 4.  I approached the room and knocked.  There were 3 yatris (Two from Mumbai and one from Gujarat).  I introduced my self. After some time, we came down to meet the other yatris.  We have to live together for next one month in conditions of different nature.  I went to station again and brought my luggage and kept in the room.

In the evening, out of fear some of us went to the market and bought medicines not purchased so far.  We had medicines for most ailments, from headache to malaria, from band-aid to bandages.  I bought threptin (protein) biscuits, multi vitamin capsules and juice powder sachets.  In the hotel found most of the yatris did the same thing of buying lot of medicines.  There were repetitions but since proper talk between the yatris selected is not there in advance this is bound to happen.

In the hotel we had nice get-together.  Many yatris came with family and friends.  Delhi based yatris met us in hotel.

I have a peculiar problem.  I don’t know spoken Hindi. I can write and read (since I read Sanskrit in my ele.school days).  All other yatris are from Hindi belt.  Some of the yatris especially 2 lady yatris from Gujarat and sanysasi from Rajasthan don’t know spoken English.

 Fortunately one of yatris, a tamilian settled in mumbai was there to act as an interpreter.  All the yatris managed with me very well.  They tried to avoid Hindi whenever I was with them and switch over to (broken) English, and whenever I tried to avoid they took me in that conversation with affection.

Gujarath Govt gave Gujarathi yatris a nice kit for yatra, which contains walking stick, pooja kit, and cash for travel from their native to Delhi.  We chided them that they should give us party.  Delhi Govt gave us a nice party where CM of Delhi Smt Sheela Dixit and Smt. Sonia Gandhi participated.  This was a Govt function at Sonia’s residence.  Delhi govt gave all of us a nice kit containing rudraksha mala, Shiva puranam book, pooja kit etc., Several local organizations also gave us parties in which several politicians participated.

At the back of mind I felt bad that no official from Tamil nadu came (or from any southern states).  Certainly my mind compared how our politicians go out and please holy Haj yatries.  I was ashamed to note the political hypocrisy shown to the Hindus.  Certainly it is not to satisfy my personal ego.  One has to understand when other yatris are treated well from the representatives of their state at Delhi, and the way in which south Indians are treated by their states.  It is not demand for money or kinds, but respect for the yatra.  After a thought I consoled my self that our states have not asked us to pay taxes for going kailash yatra!  Thank God.

We were taken in a luxury bus, to base camp hospital of Indo Tibetian Border Force.  It was a big hospital and we were divided into 4 groups.  Each group went to different doctor for medical check up and scrutiny of records brought.  My doctor checked my BP, height, weight etc., and looked my medical test results.  He could not follow that as they were in different unit and gave it back to me murmuring some thing in Hindi, which I did not follow.  After few hours, our LO informed that 3 yatris were found unfit based on their records.

We were taken in a luxury bus to the External Affairs Ministry (south block) near Rashtrapathy Bhavan.  On identification we were asked to go to conference hall.  Here we met our Liason Officer (LO), who was working as under secretary in Delhi.  He would be our team leader for the yatra.

 All the yatris introduced themselves and their experience in trekking.  I came to know that one of the yatris had gone to Kailash manas yatra 4 times already and another two yatris 3 times.  The officer in charge of yatra at Delhi  (under secretary  (china), room no: 271 A) briefed us about the yatra and got our signature in several forms.

We, the yatris looked into the eyes of the other yatris.  Even In hotel all of us did not meet together.  Groups automatically formed based on states.  I was left alone.  I was the only one among 4 southern states in my batch.  After tea, we mixed together.  A common fund was formed by paying rs.1000 per yatri which would be used to buy pooja materials

for homam at Manas, food items for china area, nylon bags, ropes etc., We were told that all our baggages should be put in nylon bag and tied by rope.  A chain with blood group and name was given for identification.  It was time for changing rs.35000/- as US dollars, which will be utilised in china area  (by converting to yuwan).  EA ministry arranged for this exchange in a nearby bank and in 2 hours time we had equivalent US dollars on hand.

Back in the hotel, we arranged and re arranged things not knowing that this would be our main activity during all night breaks.

3^rd day was a rest day.  Some of us practiced walking (!) on the Delhi streets.

Day 1:     1^st September 2000:    (New Delhi – Kathgodam)

Ganesh Chathurthi day:  today we have to start our yatra at 8 am.  Myself and one of the yatris went to nearby Ganesh temple in his friend’s car, who came to meet him.  I felt happy that we started to day with the blessings of Ganesh.  From the hotel, I prayed Ganesh and set my foot out with the luggage.  Outside, the deluxe bus was waiting.  I put the luggage in the nylon bag and tied it.  Name, batch numbers were written by marker pen.  The luggages were loaded on top.  I decided to keep my camera bag (handicam, still camera, accessories, passport, dollars, cash, icons of gods some medicines etc.,) with me.

With big cries of “Ganesh ki jai”, “Kailashnath ki jai” we boarded the bus.  I prayed lord “Nandhi” to permit us to come to kailash.

Our yatra started  - officially.

Expectations of the yatra – how would we perform – all these questions were in mind as we were on the way to Kathgodam by bus.  We could see due to over night rains that there was water on both sides of the road.  (Whether there will be rain during our trekking?).  We took lunch at a send off party organized by an association.  One of our yatris sang a nice song.  State bank of India branch presented us a nice cap.  There were speeches also by a Member of Parliament and others.

On the way we had tea with a Muslim gentleman at his shop.  This scholar was doing this service for all the batches of KM yatris.  My mind went to Amarnath yatra.  Everybody knows what is happening there.  All the religions direct to do only good things.  If there is difference of opinions within Gods what will happen? Anywhere have we read fight between Gods of Hindu, Muslim or Christianity?  In that case why devotes should fight for religions?  Gods fight only with devils.  We should seek help from the respective Gods to try to remove the devil thinking within us.  I loved the tea offered and enjoyed the time spent with him.

Our batch consisted of 26 yatris, from the states of Gujarath, Maharashtra, Rajasthan, Delhi, West Bengal, Uttar pradesh, Himachal pradesh, Uttaranchal & Tamilnadu.  I could gauge all were not rich.  Many of them could just managed for the huge expenses of the yatra (around Rs. 50,000+).  The social status ranged from son -in- law of vice president of India to sanyasi from Rajasthan.  Since this was not a minority community yatra we should not talk about subsidies.  May be this statement is harsh but feelings in the- not so rich -Hindu yatris should be thought for a moment.  God is for every body.  It should not happen that the rich among them only could go near Him.  (Infact, I have a policy not to enter temples which collects entry fees).  We have to learn many good things from other religions, which try to attract people by many ways.

I have taken lot of Shiva cassettes (audio), which were played, in the music system of the bus.  We enjoyed and participated in Bajans during the bus journey.  Some of us fell at the feet of Nitra Devi!

We arrived at Kathgodam KMVN guesthouse around 7 pm.  Went to the market in search of STD booth to call family.  It is recommended that yatris from same area can exchange the telephone numbers of others and inform their family so that incase of any (communication) problem one call is sufficient to inform others.  We checked the luggage, and kept for re loading it the next day.  After dinner, we took rest with good comfort.

DAY 2:     2^nd September 2000:    (Kathgodam – Bhageswar):

The deluxe bus in which we came, retuned to Delhi.  KMVN has arranged two small buses since it would be hilly terrain.  We loaded our luggage in the buses.  Being a railway man with interest I saw a railway station here.  School children walked over hills to reach their schools.  Again, I purchased a pair of hunter shoe (of one size bigger) since somebody told me it is better to have one size bigger.  I behaved like a student not prepared fully for the exam.  If somebody says this is important read it and some one at the entrance of the hall says this is important hurriedly read that also.  Fully prepared students go and sit calmly waiting for question paper, and here also confidant ones did not make unnecessary expenses.

It is better to have two shoes (similar to bata- hunter), which will cost around Rs, 175 each.  It should fit the leg with one woolen and one cotton socks.  It is better to walk with it for at least a month to avoid bites in the yatra.  It will dry faster and had less weight.  We can use foot powder to dry feet during night halts and use a set of socks exclusively reserved for night use.  A pair of slippers will be advantage during night inside camp.  The shoe of bigger size, which I bought here, is of little use to me.  First I walked inside it and then only outside!  (Later I gave this shoe to my porter).

After breakfast and tea, we started from Kathgodam at 8 AM.  We were told that full day we have to travel.  (Make sure to go to toilet before starting long distant travel.  Try to avoid more liquid food.  If necessary, have avamin tablet in packet during hill travel). Around 9 AM we arrived at “Bhim Tal” a beautiful lake.  We have also seen (from map!) Naini tal was also nearby.  No. That was not our aim.  We spent some time enjoying taking photos.  Around 10 15 hours we arrived at “Bhavali”.  We purchased apples and bananas and continued our journey.

We arrived “Almora” rest house around 1 pm (right time for lunch).  The lunch served here was good.  Yatris from southern part of India who are not habituated to wheat food like rotis and alu will face initial problems and should be prepared for it.  There will be little rice also.  We cannot expect ‘all’ food hereafter but only ‘alu’ food. Whatever it may be, we have to eat little, trying to avoid that little extra.  Small sachets of pickles will be helpful for the tasty tongues of the south. We must try to take available food without fail since walking without food will be giving other problems.  There were many flowers in the garden and the atmosphere was cool, with slight drizzling.  We arrived Kousani around 3 45 pm.  It is a beautiful place where you can see snow clad mountains. (if luck permits).  We could see nice white clouds!

We arrived ‘Baijnath’ temple.  One of the ancient shiva temples. (Notified by archeological dept. as heritage site).  Pandavas during their “agnanavatham” days stayed here and did pooja.  There were small temples for Ganesh and other Gods in the same compound.  Many Shiva lingams were there outside also in the verandahs.  We prayed God Shiva.  Some of us blowed, a white right side conch there.   River Gomathi’ flows adjacent to the temple.  Some of the yatris tried to lift a big round rock. Yes. With a big noise they lifted!  The atmosphere was enjoyable.   We prayed Shiva again and started. 

We arrived at ‘Bhageswar’ at 6 15 PM.  We have to stay here tonight.  Handicam batteries can be recharged near the reception.  We were told the next day we have to start early.  Around 7 30 pm we went to Shiva temple nearby.   It was complete dark inside and with the help of torches we could see and pray to God.   Infact today is day for forgiving according to Jain religion.  Some of our Jain yatris, when I was in temple came to me and requested forgiveness in case if they did any wrong thing! Infact they were only helping me so far.  We returned to the rest house for dinner.

Human mind is unique.  No one is similar to another.  Growth, status, expectations mould mind and thoughts.  Small difference of opinions among the yatris of different culture – habits, is unavoidable.  Some of us went to bed with spoiled mind over some minor problem.  Many of us are in managerial positions managing men, money and materials.  But still it is very difficult to control our mind and tongue when personal comforts are disturbed.  I thought we have not yet reached the sanyasi stage – these things are bound to happen.  In fact, these small skirmishes make a yatra more memorable as long as it does not penetrate deep in the heart.  

DAY 3:     3^rd September 2000:     (Bhageswar – Dharchula)

We were fresh in the morning.  At 6 am we left Bageswar.  When we crossed the main bridge we saw the sangam of rivers.  Due to road blockages and landslides we were diverted through chaukani, ogla.  (At ogla- a small village- we took lunch in a wayside hotel).   We enjoyed the beautiful sceneries during the journey.  At 6 pm we arrived Dharchula – our base camp.

Dharchula is a small town, on the banks of river Kali.  KMVN base camp is very near to Kali River.  When our buses reached the camp we saw many young people waiting at the gate.  Later we came to know they are porters and pony wallahs.  When we looked at them they also looked at our eyes requesting us to take them.  It is livelihood for all of them.    This seasonal job gives them some money.  We entered our base camp.  The officer in charge greeted us.  We occupied our bed.  Makeshift bath and toilet were not that bad. 

We were told that the other side of river kali is Nepal. There is a small town there also.  After some rest, myself, and one of the yatris crossed ‘Friendship Bridge’ and arrived at Nepal.  This was a memorable event for me.  This was my first ‘foreign’ visit.  We rushed to see the shops, which sold electronic, cloth, and sweater items.  The gates of the bridge would be closed at 8 pm.  If it was closed we would be stranded on Nepal side. Next day 8am only they would be opened. (By that time our team would leave).  We made ISD calls to our family.  (In Indian side telephone facilities are there but very very difficult to get.  We purchased honey bottle, turmeric powder etc., and rushed back to our camp.

There was an introductory speech by the officer in charge.  Do’s and Don’ts of yatra were explained.  It was a marathon speech by the officer but most of the yatris were attentive.  These talks did not affect me most of the times.  I could not understand since it was in Hindi.   Normally I would get a juice of it later in English, from LO or other yatris.    If some of the yatris point out that I did not know Hindi, the speaker normally switched over to English and after few words came back to Hindi and continued.

    DAY 4:     4^th September 2000:   (Dharchula – Tawagat- Pangu- Sirkha)   
Tawagat  (4300’)  - Pangu  (7200’)  - Sirkha (8000’)

We woke up facing pictures of ganesh, Shiva and Shakthi pasted all over the walls. 

Outside the camp, school children were playing in uniform before prayer bell, in the nearby school.  With interest I watched the school’s morning prayer and the nice chorus song of children.  It is long time I have seen school prayer.  I have not attended my son’s school prayer in the past 9 years. No time in daily life to re live these moments. 

Our luggage was weighed.  KMVN fix up contract every year to transport luggage of the yatris from Tarchula to Lipu Lek pass (Indian border) and back. 

Only 25 kg of luggage is permitted per yatri.  Better to stick it.    It is better to put the contents in a plastic cover inside the bag.  As already told, we have to put our bag in another polythene bag, which will be purchased at Delhi from common fund.  Instead we can purchase coloured polythene bags, for easy identification.  Name, batch no: should be written boldly by marker pen over it.  We should tie them with ropes.  It has to withstand tough handling by everybody.  It is recommended to put laminated ID cards, (with name, address and telephone number) for luggage inside all the bags and for self (with blood group and allergies to medicines) wherever possible.  All the important materials that will be damaged in transit should be kept separately.  It is better to have pickles etc., in small sachets than in bottles. 

Today we have to start trekking.  I took my video camera, still camera, accessories, cash, passport, US dollars, few medicines, vicks tablets, pain balms, few juice powder sachets, Walkman in the camera bag. 

Medicines, juice packs we can recoup from the main bag during night halts if required.  It is better to keep some toffees (like gems), juice packs, threptin biscuits, whistle in the jerkin packet.  A small water bottle (sturdy) was also tucked in the camera bag.  All these things were tucked in the ‘samsonite’ bag (a smaller one) purchased at Delhi.  It is suggested to put foam lining covered with cloth lining for the strap of the shoulder bag before we start.   It will give good relief while walking.

Before starting we should decide whether we require a porter, and a horse for our journey.  Since I had a lot of items to carry I opted for porter. If there is only a small camera and a water bottle it can be tucked in the jerkin packet itself.  It is advisable to hire horse.  Whenever we feel tired we can ride on horse. (Most of the time pony wallah himself will make us walk).  A confidant person can refuse both.  (But everybody will be confidant and bursting with energy on the first day!).  I have opted for both porter and pony and registered with the yatri who is taking account of the requirement.  It is better to fix porters and pony as a team for better bargain and we should not engage them individually.  LO asked them to go and wait at Tawagat.

We had breakfast and tea.  It is time for start.

We have to cover around 93 kms in 5 days trekking at an average of 18 km per day.  Distances have little meaning here since from 3960 feet (MSL) at Tawagat we have to touch 16700 feet at lipulek pass trekking ups and downs off the Himalayas.

We prayed Shiva and started our bus journey to Tawaghat, which was 19km from the base camp at Tarchula.  Excellent sceneries made the journey interesting.  Water falls were there everywhere on this route.  I was taking video of all the waterfalls. (There was a joke in the bus that the lad from madras had not seen water!  It was true. I was from a water-starved city and I had seen our rivers with full of sand only with occasional water flow.  I thought if some of the waterfalls were near Madras our water problem would be solved forever!  -  May be, since I was in charge of water supply - requiring 1 crore litre per day but to manage with 30 lakhs litres - in my official capacity in the Railways - I always looked these rivers with love.

The road journey was tough in the later part with hairpin bends and many landslides.  At some places we were asked to get down and walk.  We could see water falls falling on the road.  The bus waded through them.  Only experienced drivers could drive in this route.

We arrived at Tawaghat, in two hours time. Tawaghat is a place where rivers Dhauli and Kali meet.  We have to cross a bridge at the sangham to start our trekking. We could see porters and pony wallahs waiting in-group.  I looked for a good porter.  On seeing my baggage they run away.  Finally a smart person came to me.  I told him my requirement.  He has to help me in taking video also and should be with me always.  I assured him that I would take horse also.  I asked him to select a good pony walla also. (It is better to take ID cards of both porter and pony Walla with us and keep them safely. We can hand over it back at Navidang. If possible we can take photos of them without harming their ego – for our safety).   When I asked his name he told Rudra.  I felt it is a good sign to start the trekking with Rudra. 

Kailash –Manasarover yatra is once in a lifetime yatra for most of us.  It attains greater importance if it is done in traditional route (as arranged by the Indian govt).  There are other routes also.  The other workable route will be from Nepal (as arranged by tourist operators in India and Nepal).  The advantage in traditional route is it allows the yatri to accustom to the higher attitude gradually.  Acclimatisation problem will not be there since we were exposed to the higher altitudes gradually.  It is a fact that 560 selected yatris by lots have to spend rs.50000 +.  But unfortunately yatris having problems with health are not allowed.  What about kailash dharshan for these people!.

If a person, say a diabetic hereditarily, he may not have kailash darshan at all, if he applies through Government of India.  Nepal route is a boon to these people.  Even though the expenses will be two fold we can reach Manas and Kailash.  More and more Hindus should visit Kailash.  What our forefathers could not do due to various problems, we can do it now with the advancement of facilities.  Now even air force helicopters are ready at ‘Bareilly’ base for rescue operations in case of problems.

As I have experienced in my earlier Sabari malai and Amarnath yatras, speeds of the individual greatly vary.  Since we are going as a team we should be focused and try to be in the vicinity of others.  We should know what we are doing.  It is yatra.  Not a running race.  We should walk in natural rhythm.  We should be always alert.  We should know the implications of injury to self.  It will be very difficult for others to help us.  We should not expect help from others as a rule.  Can others carry us to kailash in case of any problem? (Even for self, we are engaging porters and ponies).  Every mountain has to be respected.  We should not behave like a champion runner.  Within a few hours of walking we can find yatris with similar speed.  We can join them as a group. Whistle should be used only in case of emergencies. There will be sufficient time to reach the next camp.  In the Indian side there will be doctors and staff of KMVN who accompany our team at the front and rear, with walky talkys.  From Gunji, doctors of Indo – tibetian border force will take over.

One should find a correct company in the group similar to his taste.  If one feels like walking, he should overcome the temptation of horse riding even if pressure comes from the co yatri- in the normal circumstances.  The chance of walking in Himalayas does not come daily.  If really tired horse riding can be done. (Ok. But how to overcome the temptation of horse riding seeing an upward trek route!).  It is left to the individual yatris to enjoy the yatra in whatever way they feel comfortable.  In the daily briefing we should note about the trekking route of next day distance – attitude etc., and we prepared for it.  We should enjoy the surroundings by breaking at intervals so that we can give some rest to the body.  We should not go like horses, eyes covered on sides, seeing only the ground.  We should walk preferably on the sides of the hills taking care of head in case of rocky protrusions.

We should not skip eating.  Whether we like it or not we have to push something inside at the appropriate time.  We should be careful about over eating also and learn the art of stopping at the point were the ‘little more’ props the mind.  Walking with empty stomach is not good.

The porter brought the pony wallah also to me.  My porter understands a little English.  I told the pony wallah to accompany me always.  I put my video camera on one side and still camera on the other side. For the first step of the hill road, I paused for a while and prayed lord.

Ganesh ki jai  -Har Har Mahadev went up the air. 

I put my right foot on the hill and started trekking.

The big crowd consists of yatris, porters, pony wallahs, and officials at the small starting point, thinned down after some time.  I was taking video of front, back and sides of the area – whatever my eyes saw – I did not want to miss anything.  I have noticed many yatris passing me.  It is not easy to take video like this.  It consumes lot of time and energy.  One of the yatris with me (who belonged to Tamil Nadu and settled in Mumbai) helped me in holding my bag while I shoot.  The porter who promised me that he will be by my side was nowhere near by.  He wants to run fast. Nevertheless I was determined to take full video of the yatra and decided to put it off only if there was rain.

This hill was really tough.  We have to climb nearly 3000 feet over 8km distance.   We should not be demoralised on seeing this.  In Amarnath yatra also the first hill was very tough.  (After that we will be used to it!).  There is a teashop after we cover around 60% of the hill.  My water bottle was empty by this time and I filled it here.  It is better not to take water from the running streams.  The jawan came in the rear explained to me about various flowers, fruits on the side of the hill.  He advised not to touch any plant or take any fruit since that may be itching or poisonous.  We reached top of the hill.  We took rest there for some time.  We have to go to ‘Panghu’ camp for lunch.  It is 9 km from Tawagat.  Pangu is 7200 feet from MSL.  I switched over to horse after reaching top of the hill.  Since it is first day leg muscles were tight, the stiffness would go only after some walk.

Riding on the horse is an art.  For climbing, we have to stand over a rock and the horse will be brought nearby.  We have to hold it and put one leg from rear and sit on the back.  (Later from the ground itself, I was able to climb on it.  Even the pony walla praised me!).  Horse riding is almost new to me.  (At Amarnath, I was on the horseback for 6 km from Holy cave to Panchtharani).  It rides only on the edge of valley.  It is better to put extra cushion for sitting.  The selection of horse is also important.  It should be well built at the same time not very big.  We should make the horse friendly by touching it under cheek and by other means (more important is to make friendship with the pony Walla by giving him tea and money for food.).

We reached Pangu rest house around 2 pm for lunch.  We took rest for some time after lunch.  We have to go to Sirkha rest house, which is 11 km from here.  Over the years number of days of yatra is reduced, with the result the average trekking distance has gone up. Sirkha rest house can be seen from here (on the other side of the hill).  We started again on horseback, passing green forests and water falls.  The beautiful sceneries put cheer on all our tired faces.  We crossed streams of water.  There was rain from 6pm, and we reached Sirkha around 7 30 pm.

The night at Sirkha was comfortable. There were two tiers of sheds and I went to the top one. We were in 8000 feet from MSL now.  Dinner give was good.  The route of the yatra undergoes changes every year - may be every batch.  We could not go to Narayan ashram (estd: 1936) by sri Narayan Swami during his Kailash yatra, to serve local tribes.  At Sirkha there are monuments for the Kailash yatris who died a few years back.    In the bed, I remembered to day’s trekking. We started at 4300 feet went up to 7200 feet and now at Sirkha at 8000 feet.   We came to know that there was a slight deviation from the route given to us.  Trekking from Tawagat to Gala via Sirkha is more distant than via Mangthi as already planned.  These changes in routes were inevitable due to rain, landslides, etc., and will be decided by KMVN, ITBF in consultation with base camp at Tarchula.   We could sleep immediately.

DAY 5:     5^th September 2000:      (Sirkha  - Gala)

We had tea at 6 AM.  We were lucky today. We could see the majestic Annapoorna peaks and other peaks nearby.  Slowly clouds covered the peaks.  I could record the events.  It was time to start.  We had a hurried breakfast and started walking after prayers.  Water streams crossed our trekking route.  Now, we learnt the art of avoiding wetness in shoes.  But yatris should be careful in putting their shoes on the rocks.  It may slip, resulting in injuries.  Better to be careful at these places. Two or more yatris can join together and holding hands they can cross these places.  Little boys and girls greeted with ‘om namasivaya’ and got toffees.  A dog joined me at this point and followed me upto Gunji.  (May be this dog belonged to pony wallahs).  But it came with me.  I thought lord Bairava was coming with me in these difficult yatra trekking.  At a village called Kurila we had tea. (A post office is also seen).  Now we switched over to horse mode.

 After an hour we met the yatris of the 12^th batch coming down.  Some of us interviewed the LO of the batch about the conditions at Kailash.  He informed that there were intermittent rain in lipulek and little snow in Dolma.  Then I started my question.  How was the medical test at Gunji?  He was visibly upset.  He said four of his batch were failed at Gunji and sent back.  I asked for the reason.  Some of them are less in hemoglobin level and others BP.  He was upset since the same medical reports were passed at Delhi by senior medical team and with the same results they are disqualified at Gunji by their deputies. He said he was going to represent this matter in New Delhi.   He wished us well.

I was quite ok up to this point.  Suddenly I felt a drastic drop in my energy.  Will they fail me also?  My mind lost its control.  Whom to ask?  If they complain this to others news will spread to doctors that I am sick.   I was really in a bad mood.  I could not enjoy the company of 12 th batch yatris and some jawans who were coming down.  The weather was chill and misty.  On the way even innocent faces of children could not stop my thinking.  We have crossed a river on a temporary wooden supported bridge.  We were approaching Gala.  Children greeted here also with ‘Om namasivaya’ and got their prasadam – toffees.  The beauty of nature is reflected in the faces of these children. 

Gala base camp is 2 km from the village (8900’ from MSL).  We could see only snow everywhere.  A small Shiva temple is here.  Immediately on arrival I went to the temple and sat before Lord Shiva for prayers.  I read “Shiva puranam” in Tamil and “Kailasanathane potri potri”. (Tamil songs written by Thirunavukarasar swamigal).  Earlier I read in a book that whenever the lady yatri (author of the book) was in trouble she used to read the songs and all her problems solved.  I prayed Lord with much devotion. (How I missed prayers all these days in the yatra!).  I could take only little food today.  In the bed, tears rolled out.  I covered my face.  I know I am not facing the problem.  But I have to see Kailash.  There should not be any failure on any account.  With prayers, I went to sleep.

DAY 6:     6^th September 2000:     (Gala – Malpa- Budhi)

We have to trek 20 km today in one of the most demanding trekking route, between Gala and Budhi.  The instructions given during the briefing of yesterday night came to mind.  With prayers we started at 6 am.  There was mist everywhere.  We could not see anybody.  Monkey cap is a must now.  I gave my umbrella to the porter to carry and come with me.  We had to walk on a narrow stretch.  Down below we could imagine big valleys.  Around 10am mist cleared and I could see others walking on hairpin bends nearly 500 m away.  Clouds played hide and seek game with us.  Steel barricades have been provided in some places to ensure safety.  After a long time I could see from the top of the hill, the majestic Kali river flowing in the deep valley.  But the roaring of river was very much audible.  We were going down to the level of river.  A yatri from Hindi belt shouted “Kailai malayane potri potri” on seeing me. (Praise for Kailashnath in Tamil - which he learnt from a Tamil yatri a year back).

 I stopped for a while on seeing the beauty of the area.  I also knew that danger lies where there was beauty.   I wanted to capture all the dimensions in my mind and in the video camera.  There were natural rocks acting as canopy.  They were protruding at many places, protecting us from waterfalls that tried to land on our head.  The resultant shower from the sides of rock canopy was brilliant.  In some areas water showers directly fell on our head. There were many waterfalls. The path was slippery.  We took plastic sheets, umbrellas out for these areas.  Fearing damage to camera, I put it in plastic bag.  At some points there were handrails for protection.  Walking in this stretch is really enjoyable and also can be enjoyed whenever we think of it.  What we can experience in artificial water falls, caves etc., in big theme parks we can enjoy here naturally.

We were approaching Malpa (6500’from MSL).  The mere name sent shock and sorrow waves in the hearts of yatris.  It was at this place around 210 people died in 1988 due to land slide when they were doing kailash manasarover yatra.  The dead included 60 yatris, 60 porters, pony wallahs, staff of KMVN, and locals.  There were only 2 survivors from this area.  A big landmass from a nearby hill fell on the area where KMVN campsite was there, in the night, on a rainy day.  We could see plastic tins used those yatris, on the heaps of earth near the area.  My heart wept for the dead, and we prayed in this area lighting agarbathis.   The LO sang a ’‘santhi – santhi” song.  I could see in some place water was flowing in red colour (symbolically telling the event?) where in other places it was not.  The village Malpa is away from this spot now.  We crossed wooden bridges and assembled in the shelter provided in the village.  In the teashop, we took dry rotis and tea.  Now we are going up again with reference to Kali River.  Kali River flows in a narrow area with a roaring sound.  We arrived at “Budhi” camp (9100 feet from MSL) around 5 pm.

Budhi camp was in a picturesque setting. Flowers of different colours welcomed us in the cool breeze.  KMVN staff with a cup of cool drink affectionately welcomed us. (I took three extra cups). We were discussing about today’s trekking experiences.  The doctor accompanying us came to our room.  He had a BP apparatus to check our BP.  I checked mine after the doctor checked all.  The doctor said I have 130 – 90, which is higher.  I was scared again. Whether doctors at Gunji fail me?

Budhi camp was having phone facility. (Satellite connection) –for payment.  I called my brother - a doctor – and asked him whether I could take some medicines.  He said a flat NO and taking medicines now might create problems he said.  Still I was not convinced.  Gunji was one day away.  I thought, I would take little dose so that my BP will appear normal tomorrow.  I had medicines for a lot of ailments but unfortunately nothing for BP.  A co yatri refused to spare since he had only few.  Fear of rejection at Gunji, haunted me. 

One of the co yatris (from Bengal) came to me.  He told me “why you are behaving like this.  Do you think without the blessings of Shiva you came up to this point?  Believe Him fully.  Leave your silly thinking.”  But human mind behaves indifferently.  I could take only little food. (I vomited it later).  I went to bed after applying some ‘tiger oil’.  I could not get sleep.  There were tears in my eyes and I covered my face with bed sheet.  Yatris much older than me were cheerful and why I was behaving like this?  I slept after some time.

DAY 7:     7th September 2000:     (Budhi –Gunji)

We started at 6 30 am.  Again there was mist everywhere.  I wanted to take full rest today.  (To be ready for medical test).  I climbed on horse and travelled for three hours in an ascending trekking route.  On reaching top of the hill, I climbed down and started walking.  On the way, I saw the ‘Himalayan yak’ for the first time.  At some places while descending the route was very slippery due to water falls.  As usual we cried for help from the lord by shouting “Har Har Mahadev’ and slowly came down holding other yatris on one hand and stick on the other. 

This season was fantastic.  Lots of flowers, green shrubs were there in plenty. Green grass carpets were provided by nature for our walking.  We were approaching Gurbyang (10,300’ from MSL) a famous village that has given many IAS officers to the country.    My porter’s brother also lives here and I had a good tea in his house.  On the other side of the river Kali is Nepal side and there also a village was seen.  If I have a choice I want to settle here, in this beautiful area (where water is available in plenty –in contrast to chennai!). 

About five km before Kunji, I noticed many hills on our way and the other sides of river Kali made up of soil layers.  If there was heavy rain, I was sure these hills would collapse.  I have noticed lot of landslides and exposed part of hills at many places.  As I am a civil engineer, with interest I took video of various layers of hills.  With video camera on the shoulder, I jumped on the horse.  Suddenly the video camera fell down.  With shock, I jumped back to ground to take it.  The front mouth of the camera was open breaking few screws.  I tried to put it in its place by pressing it hard by hand and switched it on. NO. It was not working.

My dream of taking video of the whole yatra failed before Kunji.  Is it symbolically telling I will not proceed beyond Kunji?   Whether I will be unfit at Gunji camp.  Depression of mind was very difficult to manage.  I could hear my porter shouting at the horse wallah why he was not careful.  What he will do.  What will happen will happen. I was in a very bad mood when I came to Gunji camp.  My porter who started helping me was also upset.  I did not tell anybody about this incident.

In the room, I heard two yatris discussing about the Dr. who came with us.  They were joking that the doctor gave different readings of BP for the same person and his apparatus is a faulty one.  I sat up and listened to them. I went to the doctor who came with us to seek his help in case the doctors at Gunji asked his views.  He laughed at me and told that I was fully fit.  Then I went to my LO to get his help in case of any problems.  He said there is no need and I was the fittest in that group.  I was gaining confidence.  In fact, most of the time I walked the distance and only due to taking video I was coming in the rear end of the batch.  Slowly I came to my normal look as the confidence level was increased in the talk.  (May be I could see most of us were in exam writing mood).

Gunji camp (10,500’ from MSL) was a very comfortable one.  There were good toilets.  BSF jawans and officers also stayed nearby.  There was a branch of state bank of India here.  There was a small Shiva temple.

 We were asked to assemble there with our medical reports and X- ray.  All the yatris assembled there.  There were a team of doctors waiting for us in the make shift tent opposite the temple.  We were called one by one.  I noticed the entry of the tent very low. I thought this was the first test.   Doctor would notice whether the yatri sits and scrawls the entrance or bow his back and walk into it.   We surrounded the first few yatris who had completed the test and asked them what happened inside. There were three doctors. First was the chief, the second for taking general tests and third for taking BP.  I was in the rear side of the list.  I went through my report and compared with the report of next yatri.  I found both the readings were in different units.  The look of doctor at Delhi hospital flashed in my mind. Whether these doctors won’t accept these units? When I discussed this openly one of the yatris from Mumbai who finished his check up told me that his report had both the unit readings.  I collected his copy also.

 My name was called.  I went inside carefully, without sitting and ducking at the same time I noticed all the three doctors watching me. I was right.  I wished the first doctor (chief!) and handed over my reports and x ray.  I introduced myself that I was a railway officer from chennai.  I noticed the changes (expected) in the face of chief.  He could not follow these units.  With confidence in my tone I told him that I took all the tests in government Hospital and they have given in universal units followed all over world.  I further told him all the leading hospitals in chennai follow these units only.  The second doctor checking me at that time stopped it and took the report from the chief.  I went to the third doctor and lay down in the bed for the BP check.  I put a big salute for him. (No loss-isn’t it?).  He would have heard ‘namasivaya’, namasivaya instead of lup – tup.  He turned and told the chief ‘perfect’.  I gave another salute to him.  By this time I was confidant.  I went to the chief and told him that I had one more set of test results showing both the units.  I asked him whether he would see it and compare.  He gave my reports back.  I asked him whether I passed the test.  He laughed at me and told –“you are perfect”.  I put a big salute for all of them and came out with happiness.

All the yatris completed the test.  To most of them the doctors did not tell anything.  After some time we came to know three of the yatris were not through.  The atmosphere went bad.  Our LO went out for discussion with the doctors.  After half an hour tension, two yatris were kept under observation (almost through) and one failed.  The failed yatri was 65 years old – very nice person who walked with zeal along with everybody.

Evening we went to the temple for prayer.  I played Dolak in the Bhajan, which went for nearly two hours.  I enjoyed my part very much. (In my school and college days I have played mirudangam in AIR).  Lot of yatris, jawans, doctors, and officers gathered there for the bhajan.  Some of the jawans sang very nicely.  We retuned to our camp with the help of torches and assembled for dinner.  We felt sorry for the one yatri who could not come with us.  There was shadow in the personal happiness.  With prayers (thanks giving!) I went to bed.

DAY 8:     8^th September 2000:     (Gunji- Kalapani- Navidang)

We packed and repacked things from the morning.  I took the green bag where winter clothings were kept.  All the unwanted used things were put in another bag and kept in the store room and informed the yatri taking account of the same.  Now I have only 2 bags (including camera bag). 

There was a briefing conducted by an army officer about how we have to tackle the rest of the yatra.   Do’s and don’ts of the yatra were narrated with diagrams of the altitudes.  For the benefit of me he talked in English also.  He instructed not to take any photo or video further in the Indian side and already used film rolls and cassettes should be handed over to ITBF authorities in Navidang.  He further said while we return we can take photos of the same.  I was a little furious. What do they think about us?  Whether they think that we would sell details of Indian side to china?  He explained that even by mistake the photos and video should not be left behind in china, which might help them if the need arose.  Now I was convinced.   Dress required in the china area also was told.  Everybody listened with interest.

We started our yatra.  We had to go to Navidang which was18 kms away from Gunji.  Green shrubs slowly disappeared and we could see occasional grass patches.  Gunji camp was at 10500 feet altitude.   Navidang was 13400 feet attitude.  We stopped at a place called Kalapani (11800 feet) 9km away from Gunji.  All the way, I was riding on the horse wherever the trekking route was ascending (most of the times). After crossing river kali, we came to a temple decorated nicely.  It was at this place river Kali originates, for six months and from Nepal side for other six months. I prayed Lord Shiva from outside.  I was too tired to remove my shoes.  Later I came to know “vyasa guga” was also there.  I could not see it.  Hoped we could see it while returning. 

Kalapani is a big plain area inside the hills.  Originally this area belonged to Nepal.  India bought this area, which is strategically important (in the military point of view), from Nepal by giving land in others areas.  Nepal at that time did not listen to china when the MOU was signed.

I lost the ID card of my ponywallah.  My porter somehow managed and arranged a duplicate. (Trade secret!).  Passports were collected from the yatris and after checking and affixing necessary immigration entries they were returned.  ID cards and Job permits of porters and ponywallahs were also returned.  Passports and US dollars were kept in safe personal custody.  If we lost them, we could not enter china.  We had to settle account with the porters and ponywallahs here as per agreed terms. (Invariably paying that little extra for the help they did during yatra).  They would wait for us on our return day at Lipu Lek pass.

Nepal is the only Hindu country in the world.  World over Hindus are exploited for their tolerance, the strength often considered their weakness.  Christianity is spreading like cancer on one side and Chinese Maoists are spreading like slow poison. Since, Nepal is basically a tourist-based country, Pakistanis use this as a base camp to attack India.  The recent Killings of Royal family is certainly a set back for the Hindu Kingdom.  In my opinion India should give asylum for the present King and send its troops and annexue Nepal.  Yes.  The world will shout for some time.  When china captured Tibet there was uproar.  But who talks about it now?  If we don’t do it now, in the near future China will do it.  It is good for Nepal to be with India and with Hindus.  Chinese will swallow the Hindu culture like what they did in Tibet for tibetians.

The present day relationship with China is good.  Chinese are acting as good neighours since they are also opened up now for world economy, and for conducting Olympic games.  In fact, most of our border issues with China are also settled except for few places.  (Still the areas captured from India are with them and with Pakistan too; since as our country believes in non-violence and other related themes, we don’t shout even for our lands captured by others – shame!).

It is high time, that India should ask Kailash – manasarover area from China - by giving area in other places.  The religious connection with Kailash manas area dates back to several centuries.  Any way this area does not belong to china since they annexed it from Tibet in recent times. Dalai Lama is fighting in Ahimsa way to get back his land by sitting in India, like all the weaker sections do.  India has given asylum for many Tibetians.  In fact, more Tibetians live in India than in Tibet.  Dalai Lama should accept the ground realities and if he agrees, a separate state can be formed in this area under India and all Tibetians can go there and live in their own land.  Getting religiously important Kailash and Manasarover will benefit India, and China also will be benefited, by giving this piece of land for solving tibetian problem.  China is not going to lose, since on the first hand this is not its own area and secondly it gets equalent area on the other side.  This daydream can be fine tuned by India, China and Tibet. This will be beneficial to all and we need not require passport to see Kailash, the area once ruled by Indian Kings.  All the borderlines are only temporary (refer any history text book) and hope this will again change to our benefit. 

I know, this view, may not be acceptable to many in this form.  I hope one day we get the “Aganda Bharath” as dreamed by many Hindus.

Oh.The Yatris were waiting.  We would join them.  We had to go to Navidang.  The route was ascending and we were all tired.  Most of us were again on horseback. It was raining from 5pm onwards and still we had to go about five kms.  We could not see anything when we reached Navidang (13,400’from MSL) at 7 30 pm.  We immediately rushed to the tents.  The climate was chill and we were in full winter uniform.    We could eat very little food and I managed with threptin biscuits.  The famous OM parvath was nearby and we could not see anything outside. The L.O visited all rooms and asked us to be ready by 3 30 am the next day.   I packed all my used rolls, videocassettes in a plastic bag and secured it by tying with rubber bands with a name label.  It was better to exhaust rolls before Navidang to avoid wastage.  All the packages were collected and handed over to the authorities for safe custody.  We could collect it while we returned.  Suddenly my mind went for the video camera under repair (which fell down during the yatra). When I was about to ask for some screwdrivers with the camp people, a yatri came to me with his video camera. 

There were three yatris having video camera (one Samsung make and two Sony).  The Samsung camera did not work during initial stages, and the yatri having Sony did not use much.  Actually taking video while trekking was tiresome.  A lot of sequential operation is involved in shooting video.  Taking the video camera from bag – aim –shoot with zoom requirements and putting back to bag.  With continuous actions in these sequences I got pain in the hand.  The strain went up when we shot while riding on the horse.  But somehow I wanted to take maximum coverage for the benefit of others who could not come to Kailash.

The yatri who came to me with his camera had only one battery, which was exhausted already.  Moreover, he was not inclined to take further.  After handing over a cassette he came to me with the remaining cassettes and asked me whether they would be useful for me. He had seen me taking full coverage.   He told me to give a full copy of the yatra after we returned.  I grabbed this opportunity.  I took his camera also with empty cassettes and put them in my bag.  God had given me a second video camera (and cassettes too!).   We slept early today.

DAY 9: 9^th September 2000: 
(Navidang – Lipu Lek pass -  Taklakot)

Om Namasivaya –Har Har Mahadev cries went up at 3 am.  Some of us tucked in the bed.  Now, it was a forceful wake up.  Sundar get up -get up calls started.  I sat down and noticed other yatris getting ready.  I collected my bags, stick and put on my shoes.  In the dining area some yatris were seen taking puris!  I could not take any at this time.  I was feeling dull since it was raining and pitch dark outside.  When I took tea I put my glouse in my jerkin pocket.  When I came out I missed it somewhere.  With the help of torch I tried to locate it.  I could not.  I rushed to the shed and collected other things.  Wearing inner wears, sweaters, jerkins, glouse, and monkey caps were must.  Whenever there was rain we had to add rain coat (preferably with cap),  & umbrella.  Wearing goggles was also essential.  It was better to hang it over the neck so that we could use it whenever it was required and we won’t miss it too.

All of us assembled at one place and our L.O counted the number.  I was like a wet chicken.  The climate, time and darkness made me very sleepy.  After walking for half an hour we started trekking on horseback.  I slept during horse ride occasionally waking up and pretended to act as if I was awake.  The horse wallah noticed it and informed the porter.  The porter woke me up.  Again I went to sleep mode.  Now, the porter and the horse wallah came on both sides holding me.  This was a good setting for sleep.  It was total dark outside – no sound – except for ringing of bells of the horse.  But I knew it was dangerous to sleep during horse ride! (It is easy to advise isn’t it?).

I came to my senses around 5 am.  We were approaching Lipu lek Pass (16,700’from MSL).  I could see snow on the bottom, sides and front of the horse. Horses would not walk on snow.  We jumped down from the horse.  This was the first time I was seeing this much of snow.  I had never walked on it.  After the first few steps, I could feel the coolness at my feet, which aggravated further after some time.  There was no place to sit and relax since there was snow everywhere.  On the peak, we had to wait for some time for the arrival of kailash yatris who had dharshan already.  The ITBF authorities would hand over our batch to the Chinese authorities who in turn hand over the batch returning from kailash.  Slowly we could spot each other.  We could not see the sunrise but the brightness in snow was visible.  The horse wallahs and porters returned after handing over our baggage.  Normally from the common fund two porters could be engaged for the help of a batch for cooking and other general help.  My porter was selected in one slot.  (With work permits they can enter).  I requested him to take my bags in Chinese area also for extra money.  He agreed and I handed over my bags to him.  He had to carry the general luggage (food items for cooking in china and other general items).  Since there were two, both said that they would manage. 

We could spot a yatri arriving by horse at 6 am.  “Bharath Mata Ki Jai” – “Har Har Mahadev” went on the air.  My mind went to my Amarnath yatra in 1999.  The Kargil fever was in full steam and I could see many Indian flags were pinned on shirts and bags of the Amarnath yatris (including mine).  For the people of other religions there are many countries divided specifically on religious line but for us – the Hindus, India is the only home.

Slowly other yatris came.  Enquiry about the climate in Dolma pass at that time was the main topic.  Addresses and phone numbers were exchanged with the yatris from the same states.  I also shouted Tamil Nadu – Tamil nadu.  There was no response. 

The Chinese authorities counted us and took over.  Now it was time for walk.  While others were descending with luggage I was free.  I took a luggage from a co yatri.  After half an hour walking we came to a spot where horses were waiting.  I sat on a horse and suddenly it started running fast.  I could not control it.  The person who came with the horse initially was out of sight.  I sat tightly on it holding the ropes tightly and bending towards the head of the horse.  After some time it stopped.  I had seen the horse wallah coming on another horse.  Soon two or three persons came riding fast on their horses.  They felt relieved on seeing me fully.  I shouted at them  (in Tamil – I didn’t know Tibetian language).  One of them came to me and patted my back gently and offered his horse.  I waited for the other yatris to arrive. After ten minutes I continued the horse ride along with other yatris.  It would be easy to ride on horse.  But the risk was great.  For smaller comforts we would take enormous risks.  Any injury due to horse riding or yak riding would spoil the whole programme.  All is well that ends well.

After a two-hour horse ride we came to a spot where a bus was waiting.  We had to board the bus from here to go to Taklakot (30 km from Lipulek pass).   We secured the luggage on top and occupied the bus.  With interest I saw the landscape totally different from Indian side.  It was a slow descent and almost plain in most of the places. After an hour or so, I could spot some buildings.  Chinese military camp was also seen.  The bus went into a street where some big buildings, post offices were there.  The bus entered in camp “ surang’ rest house/Taklakot (purang valley) at 13,000’ from MSL.

All of us assembled in the reception hall, which was really good.  The sofa was very much comfortable after the backbreaking bus ride.  Two young ladies appeared smilingly with tea. The expected moment of tasting Chinese tea had come. On the first sip itself my face went awkward.  This tea was made with yak milk.  I coolly put back a full cup of tea on the table.  I understood the smile on the face of the ladies now.  They would have seen similar acts of yatris in earlier batches also.  Chinese tea was world famous.  I didn’t want to have a bad impression of Chinese tea with this experience. 

We occupied the beds allotted to us.  There were 4 to 5 beds in a single room, which was comfortable.  We went to toilet. The Condition of the toilet was very bad. We had to take water or tissue paper.  But hot water facility was available only at specified timings. 

We went outside the guesthouse.  There were shops selling toffees, vegetables, coke, provisions, clothes etc.  The post office was big and a telephone with ISD facility was available in another building.  There was a big queue for making ISD calls as all of us were trying to contact home!  There was a crowd of Chinese soldiers also trying to contact their home in local call.  We returned to our guesthouse.  We took dinner, (Soup, noodles, juices and fruit pieces) which was good.

DAY 10:     10^th September 2000:     (@ Taklakot)

At Taklakot.  Morning I went to the post office again to make IDD calls to my family. Again there was a heavy rush and we waited patiently to book the phone call.  It was better to stop at the exact minute to avoid full payment for the fraction of a minute, to save money.  In the Morning, we exchanged dollors for yuwans.  We need not exchange all the dollars but any balance yuwans could also be converted back to dollars when we returned. We washed our clothes and took bath in hot water after a week.  Nobody wanted to come out of the bathroom.  (I joked at one of the yatris that he became lean after the bath).  We opened our bags again and re arranged things.  We had good lunch.  The dry rotis brought by Gujarati yatris (very thin) and pickles were like amruth at that time.  The food served by serving ladies at the guesthouse was also good which contained soup, noodles and tinned fruits. We listened good music from Walkman.   What to do next?  We had nice sleep upto 4 PM. 

As I had mentioned already there were slight difference of opinions among the yatris.  Now the spending account of the common fund was discussed.  The talks were in high pitch and the account was handed over to others.  I suggested that who ever took up the responsibility should be more transparent.  Even though there was no mistake noticed, hurting of minds could be avoided.  Moreover we did not have any work to do today.  Idle brain is devil’s workshop.  I heard that working of mind would change when we trek in higher attitudes.  Let us see what would happen.

It was better to direct our mind to religious things.  But it was not always successful. Not all the yatris were religious minded.  Some of them started this yatra as a trekking expedition and turned to religious side whenever they encountered difficulties.

At the back of my mind the repair to my camera was haunting and I was very happy when the L.O asked us to be ready to go to market by bus.  The market was about five km away from the camp and had around 200 shops.  First I had done window-shopping.  From electronic items to silk handkerchiefs, were available in plenty.  Good bargaining would always be helpful.  I searched for a screwdriver set to repair my camera.  The shopkeeper could not understand what i wanted and with a lot of acting I bought a small screwdriver set for 5 yuwans. (Even though I did not know to repair my camera still I wanted to try).  I also bought silk shawls of small size to give it to my family members.  It was better to buy plastic water cans - to take manasarovar water-here itself.  I faced lot of problems since I could not get plastic cans anywhere enroute.  Even though it was tempting to buy sweaters and woolen materials we should resist it and buy to the requirements only.

The scenes outside the market reflected the lifestyle of the locals.  Children and the elders where seen playing billiards on the roadside.  The children were healthy and well built.  A river was flowing nearby in a valley.  The Earth was made up of loose soil, and on the hills nearby there were caves where people live.

It was time to compare the rates for the items we bought on our way back to the guest house.  I told the co yatris that I bought the silk shawls for three yuwans and enjoyed their reaction.  After some time, I told them the correct price (i.e. five yuwans) and relieved their tension.

As soon as we reached the guest house I went to the room and took the video camera.  During my visit to Sony shop earlier in chennai I had seen the mechanic opening the video camera.  The position of screws, which I noticed with interest, helped me now.  I slowly and carefully removed the screws and pressed the front portion gently inside.  I pasted cellular tapes on the edges.  I switched the camera on.  You could feel my heart beat.  Yes.  The camera started working again.  With deep breath I thanked God.  Now I had two video cameras.

After dinner, we tried to sleep.  Even at 8 PM, it was not dark outside.  We started discussing about ‘joshyam’, which slowly turned to politics -which meant difference of opinions.  We slept after a tiresome useless discussion.  In the bed, I prayed God to give me more strength to my mind to divert the attention towards Him.

DAY 11:     11^th September 2000:    (Taklakot – Gur la – Rakshas Tal – Holy Manasarovar Lake – Dharshan of holy Kailash – Tarchen)             104 km by bus.

Today was a very important day for all yatris.  We would see RakshasTal, holy manasarovar and holy Kailash today.  We were very eagerly waiting for this occasion.  We got ready early in the morning.  All our baggages were loaded in the bus.

We knew, from the yatra booklet, that the batch would be made into two groups.  The first batch would start Kailash parikrama from Tarchen and the second one would do manasarovar parikrama from Hore.  The batches would be dropped at the respective places.  After completing one parikrama the batches would do the other parikrama.

Inside my mind there was a dream to be near manasarovar on the full moon day.  Later when God Shiva occupied my mind there was a desire to do parikrama of Kailash on the full moon day.  In Tamil nadu the ‘Giri valam” (parikrama) of Thiruvannamalai on full moon day is famous.  I noted with interest the full moon day fell on the 12th September.  Our batch was lucky to be in Tibet at this period.  It was the LO who should allot groups and I did not know to which group I belonged.  The part of mind, which was religious told me to go to Kailash, and some part of mind told me to enjoy manasarovar on the full moon day.  I left to God to show me whatever He wanted.

The bus started from Taklakot around 8am.  We were 13,000 feet above MSL.  During the bus journey it was decided by LO and the Chinese tourist operator to go as one team since this batch had only 25 yatris.  The purpose of dividing the batch was to ensure comfort since many halt points had capacity for only 20 yatris to stay.  Everybody was happy after this announcement.  First we would go for Kailash parikrama and then to manasarovar parikrama.

We were expecting Rakshas Tal the first point before holy manasarovar in this route.  We reached Gur la, which was one of the highest points (16,200 feet) from where we could see many snow clad mountain peaks.  Our journey continued downwards after this point.  The bus journey was not comfortable but that was not in the mind.  After two hours drive, we could see Rakshas Tal.

What I read and heard about Rakshas Tal came to my mind. I wanted to take video of the lake.  I went near the lake and had good coverage.  There was nobody living near the lake.  In some books I read that Rakshas Tal and manasarovar lakes were merged earlier and got separated in course of time and the land portion in between the lake was developed.  But as the saying goes Rakshas Tal is the area were king Ravana made thapas towards Shiva.

King Ravana was a great devotee of Shiva.  He was called “Ravaneswaran”.  Only a very few got the title “easwaran” with the name.  In our normal life to praise Rama we degrade Ravana.  It is a big topic and my views may not tally with others.  Let us come back to the shores of Rakshas Tal.

Sentiments overruled thoughts.  I have not touched the Rakshas Tal water. (Whether I will turn Rakshas?).  After a group photo we returned to the bus, which was parked nearby.

The bus started.  I looked back through the rear window the beautiful Rakshas Tal lake again.  We continued our journey.

My mind and eyes were wide open.  We were approaching the holy manasarovar lake, which was in my dream over the years.  Like a child I looked through the window for the first glimpse.  We approached Zaidi camp.  I could see the blue waters of holy Manasarovar Lake.  As soon as the bus stopped I ran towards the Shore of Manasarovar Lake.  I could not control myself.  The joy of manasarovar darshan filled my heart.  I didn't want to waste even a second for seeing anything else.  I tasted the holy water and sprinkled the water on my head also.  I took video and still photos of Manasarovar Lake from the shore at Zaidi.  The hills surrounding Manasarovar Lake had snow on its peaks.  The time was around 3 pm. 

The instructions were very clear.  We have to spend only fifteen minutes here. I didn't want to waste a single moment.  Slowly other yatris approached me since I was standing away from the main camp area.  The sanyasi yatri suddenly removed his dress and got down in the lake.  Suddenly I got tempted to take bath in the holy manasarovar lake.  I handed over my camera bag to my co yatri, and with inner wear got down in the holy lake.  The first touch of manasarovar was very chill.  With prayer on the lips and mind I slowly went inside and after few steps at a place where I felt I I can bow down comfortably I prayed Lord Shiva and bowed down underwater three times telling Namasivaya, Namasivaya. I came to the shore.  Then only I realised the effect of taking bath in Manas, around 3 PM, in a cold climate.  My body was shivering badly.  I did not bring any spare dress .not even a towel.  On seeing my condition my co-yatri opened my camera bag and gave the cloth that covered my video camera.  I put the same dress and entered the camp.  The firing started after that.  Everybody started firing me for taking bath at that time.

In fact the officer who briefed us at Gunji, instructed us not to get down in the lake unless sunshine was there.  It may be an irresponsible act on my part, but inside the mind I felt happy that I took bath in holy manasarovar lake before going to Kailash.

Horn of the bus was blowing.  The driver wanted us to come back.  We had to go to Tarchen.  I felt really fresh.  The bus ran in a plain area and crossed occasional water streams.  Through the front glass of the bus, I looked for the first darshan of holy Kailash.

Suddenly, almost at the same time, many of us had the first darshan of holy Kailash.  “Har Har Mahadev”  - “Har Har Mahadev” went up the air.  The bus driver stopped the bus and everybody got down from the bus to see the holy Kailash.  My eyes were filled with tears, and I offered a heart full of thanks to Shiva for granting Kailash darshan.  The clouds where seen embracing Kailash now and then.  The driver started the bus again and told us that we would get very good darshan of Kailash after some distance.

 After sometime while negotiating a small stream of water the back tyres of the bus got trapped.  Every time the driver tried to take it out, it went in side the slush deeply.  All of us got down from the bus and collected small stones and shrubs and put under the wheel to give more grip for the tyre.  All of us pushed the bus and it did not move an inch.  There was no one nearby.  We were waiting for some other vehicle to pass this route so that we could get their help in taking out the vehicle.  I sat down in a dry area.  The holy Kailash without any clouds stood majestically before me.  I took my video camera and still camera from the bus and took photographs.  Closing my eyes I prayed Lord Shiva for this majestic darshan. A big noise of a vehicle, which was going nearby, woke me up.  It was a Chinese Army jeep.  The Army Officer was kind enough to allow us to tie a rope to his jeep and pull the bus out.  Within no time the bus came out of the stream.  We thanked the officer profusely.  Our journey started again.

Now, the bus driver was more cautious in negotiating water streams.  On one occasion he asked all the yatris to get down from the bus and cross the water stream by walk.  When I got down from the bus, I took the camera also with me.  When I was zooming Kailash, suddenly I felt a shock.   A real shock.  I could see two eyes staring at me, with nose, mouth and even hair strips from top.  I could not focus in the zoom mode for long time and came back to the normal wide mode to see full Kailash.   I put the camera in the bag and with the naked eyes I had full darshan again.

 With the shock I had from the darshan, I boarded the bus, my hands still shivering when I took my seat.  On the way, I could see only barren lands and at around 5 PM we arrived at Tarchen (14,760’from MSL). 

Tarchen was the base camp for Kailash. The camp looked like a real fort, with big compound walls around it.  From the camp we could see the South face of Kailash.  We collected our bags and went to the rooms allotted to us. The rooms were comfortable and we took rest for sometime.  Toilet was available nearby but in the worst possible condition tissue papers came handy.  Water was also available in drums.  Taking small mugs, or water bottles would be helpful to take the water.

I joined some yatris and went around Tarchen market, which was near the base camp.  Toffees, clothes, shoes, electronic goods were available in plenty.  There were hotels and even Casinos and video shops.  But I could not get what I wanted.  I went around and around to get a plastic can to take manasarovar water and there was none.  Even some plastic cans, which were available, were used to take Diesel, which was useless for taking holy water.  I went inside a hotel (bar) and tried to talk with them in English.  May be I was not the customer they wanted.  Certainly they may not welcome the yatris from India who won’t take meat or liquor during this yatra.  I bought Coke bottles of bigger size so that at least in these bottles I could take Manas water. On the way to the camp, I saw a structure, which could be linked to Hinduism.  This small structure with four pillars and a small wall over it was just behind the base camp area.  From here the South face of Kailash was clearly visible.

In the base camp, we met a swamiji who had done Outer parikrama, inner parikrama and Nandhi parikrama.  I heard that he was staying there for the past three months and doing parikrama's of Kailash and also assisting the yatris by performing homam near the base camp.  For more then one hour we listened to him with utmost interest about his inner parikrama and Nandhi parikrama experiences.  This swamiji had taken video of the inner parikrama also which unfortunately we could not see in full due to low battery backup.  Whatever destined only we can see.

In the base camp, I searched for power supply for recharging my video batteries.  I requested a house (quarters) for help.  The lady obliged me and allowed me inside the house and I kept my battery charger in the power supply unit and came back.   I requested them not to switch off until next day morning.  In the night the swamiji whom we met already, was doing homam for the previous batch.  We were very close to the full moon day (The next day was the full moon day) and the moon was slowly rising.  I was sitting behind the homam, and I could see the smoke from the homam and Kailash together as if we were doing homam very near to Kailash. The rays from the moon fell on the holy Kailash giving a wonderful sight to see. The smoke from homam was like aarathi and the rays from the moon were like deepam for the holy Kailash.

After the homam, around to 11 PM we went to our room.  I took some toffees, vicks tablets, water bottle, camera bag, glouse, monkey cap, and two sets of socks in a bag.  Pooja materials for doing Pooja at Dolma pass were also taken.  Threptin biscuits, glucose or juice packs were helpful.  We should be fully equipped for any climate in this area.  Inner wear, sweaters, jerkins, raincoat, umbrella etc should be taken without fail to be used whenever required. Based on the climate we could wear selected dress and keep other things to be used whenever required.  In my opinion, a sunglass, a cap, a monkey cap, glouse, inner wear, shoe, and sweater are the minimum required for this area on normal times.

I was preparing mentally also.  I could not sleep comfortably.  I knew that I 'would be doing an important event of my life. The holy Kailash parikrama was a dream for all of us.  Kailash yatra is deemed to be completed, only if parikrama is completed.  Many Hindu yatris from 1940’s and 50’s completed the parikrama with great difficulty.  Sometimes they could not do so due to various reasons.  When we were coming down from Lippu lek pass, we were told that sometime we could not see Kailash itself, due to heavy snowfall and it would take many days to clear.  Since our programme was for fixed number of days and the visas would not be the extended by the Chinese authorities we were told that some batches returned without seeing Kailash, leave alone parikrama.  Thank God already we had nice darshan of Kailash.  God should help us in doing parikrama also successfully. 

Parikrama of Kailash was for three days.

First day from Tarchen to Direbu 20 km, of which first 6 km we could cover by bus. 

Second day from Direbu to Zongzerbu 20 km trekking in which we have to cross Dolma pass. 

Third day from Zongzerbu and back to Tarchen 15 km.

Praying God Shiva I went to sleep around midnight.

DAY 12:  12^th September 2000: (Kailash parikrama –1^st day – Tarchen- Direbu)

I got up around 6 AM and came out of the room.  There was snow over the roof of the camp and over the bus.  The South face of the Kailash was very clearly visible and I prayed for successful completion of the parikrama.  We assembled near the bus.  I searched my walking stick and took it.  Whether we like it or not it was advisable to hire yak for doing parikrama. The LO also made it compulsory to hire yak.  I loaded my bag along with others on the top of the bus.  The camera bag was with me.  Everybody in the batch was very eager to do the parikrama. 

With cries of “Kailashnath ki jai” and “Har Har Mahadev” the bus started from Tarchen camp.  I was sitting near the window.  I noticed many waterfalls and natural formation of fort like walls on either side.  The bus stopped after 15 minutes drive.  We got down from the bus and assembled in a line. The LO counted us.  It was time for walk.  It was very sunny and hot.  I enquired about the Adi Shankara statue installed by HH Shankaracharya of Kanchi math.  It was not there since Kailash was in china and nobody knew the great Adi Shankara who revived Hinduism and travelled the length and breadth of the country.

  How he could have travelled on those days? What dress he had and what shoes he wore?  With all the present day comforts we think Kailash parikrama is an adventure.  Imagine the Shankara and other Shiva devotees on those days who came to Kailash.  Shiva gave darshan to them at Kailash.   Shankara got Soundarya Lahiri from Shiva and Parvathi.  The great Tamil poet Avvayar, Saint Tirunavukkarasar and Karaikal Ammaiyar and many others got darshan of Shiva.  In every region of this great Aganda Bharath many great souls had the darshan of Shiva parvathi in this holy place.  We cannot go anywhere near Adi Shankara or any other great people who came here on those days.  The sufferings they had in coming to Kailash - we cannot imagine.  But even now Kailashnath showers his blessings to us helping us in every step knowing our present day capabilities.

We were waiting for the Yaks.  Some yatris in our batch started walking leaving their bags with us.  After a few hours of waiting we could see Yaks coming.  The ladies and gents accompanying yaks passed us and assembled for making tea.  After another one hour we boarded the Yak.  We wasted more than two hours here simply sitting.  We should have started walking.  On the way we could board the Yaks.  We should try to reach our camp Direbu early.  Then only we could go near Kailash at this point since this was one of the closest points to Kailash on the Outer parikrama.  We prayed the southwest face of Kailash and started our yak ride.  We were going in a valley.  A river, which flows here, is called “river of gods” (Lachhu). I had a test ride on yak initially for a few kms.  I jumped out later to walk.  Whenever I felt tired I boarded the yak.

Yak riding was tough and at the same time enjoyable.  After the initial ride, I Iearnt the trick.  I selected a big yak (when we sit the gap between a level ground and our legs should not be more.  On the yak, we could hold a towel or cloth tied over it on both the hands.  But yak riding was not in our hands.  He (she?) would go wherever he wanted.  If he spotted green somewhere on the slope of the hill he would coolly walk in 45 degree slope away from the route.  Whatever we shouted was of no use. (He did not understand Hindi like me) and any shouting to the persons coming with the yak group would not help.  They laughed at us.  Sometimes (many times) Yaks would dash against each other.  They would fight (may be mock fight for them) and rub against one another.  We had to shout at the other yatri to be careful about his legs.  I used to touch the yak and tried to talk in touch language.  No use. Its skin was thick!    Since we had to stretch out our legs to the size of the yak it would start paining after sometime.  If we felt there was a problem and some other Yak was coming to dash we had to jump out carefully from the yak without injuring ourselves (or we can lift our legs- which will be difficult).  Any injury at this stage would be very bad for the yatri and a problem to the other yatris. We had to be alert always.  As far as possible we had to avoid yak riding and start walking.  But we would be tempted to go on yak on seeing the steep climb and the other yatris going on yak.

Now we were in the Western side of holy Kailash.  The views of Kailash were different from every angle.  Whatever we could think, we dreamt that, Kailash would reflect that. That is the magic of Kailash.  On the way at one point we were told that the chain like formation on the Kailash was due to Ravana.

(Legend goes that he tried to lift Kailash to Sri Lanka.  Due to the shake, parvathi Devi was afraid and Shiva pressed the mountain by his toes.  Due to this Ravana was trapped.  On seeing the plight of one of the greatest devotees of Shiva, Deva Rishi Naradha advised him to pray Lord Shiva.  Ravana removed one of his ten heads and one hand and with veins as strings made a Veena and praised Shiva by singing sama veda.  Shiva blessed him and released him.  He got his parts back and went with the blessings of Shiva. The impressions that we had seen here was the thread mark made by Ravana while tying Kailash.)

At a point of trekking, a natural formation of rock looks like sacred Nandi bull in front of Kailash. Due to slight drizzling and the misty atmosphere I was feeling dull even though I covered more than 70% by Yak. I was not in my normal moods and at this stretch the Maya Devi prevented me to enjoy fully.  I tried to take video also during yak ride.  It was not comfortable even to sit and hold it on both hands.  I had to remove camera from the bag, shoot, and place it back on one hand by holding the yak on the other hand.  Somehow I managed to take the video wherever possible.

We were slowly approaching the north side of holy Kailash.  When I was sitting on the Yak and turned to my right side a big jerk shook me.  I saw the magnificent Kailash, the dome shaped full view, where dazzling white snow criss crossed a big black, gigantic dome shaped hill, between two big mountains, Unknowingly I jumped down from the Yak and walked a few steps towards it.  I leave it to the readers to feel my mind.  Any good writer or a photographer cannot describe it in his medium.  It has to be experienced.   I had prayed this same view on all these days, requesting Shiva to grant this Kailash darshan.   I was unable to control myself.

The officers who came with me from the Chinese side stopped me and told me that a still better view could be had from our campsite, which was near.   I could see the camp also from this point and I walked towards it enjoying the magnificent north face of Kailash.  We arrived at the camp – Direbu (16,600’ from MSL) around 4 PM.  We took rest for one hour.  Everybody was happy on seeing this wonderful view.  Some of our yatris who came earlier went up in front of the hill to go near Kailash.  In this yatra only at a very few points we could touch Kailash and this was one such place.  Myself and other yatris started around 5 30 pm to go near Kailash.  We reached the top of the front hill in 45 minutes.  It seemed from here again we had to go for one hour.   As I thought earlier it was not very near.  The climate started changing slowly.  We could feel cold breeze blowing.  I sat on a small rock in front of the holy Kailash and started praying Shiva.  I thought of all my relatives, all my friends in office, and others who helped me in performing this holy yatra and prayed for them.  I prayed for the departed souls of my family, living souls and for the future generations for Kailash-prapthi and prayed Him to shower his blessings for the living souls.

From this point we could see Kailash nearer.  There were colour bundled cloths tied nearby.  I felt like an ant, before this majestic darshan.  My heart was filled with emotions while standing before kailash.  I chanted slokas known to me and prayed before the awesome kailash.

It was getting cold and darker.  I was fully satisfied with what I got.  Nothing more I required.  We decided to return to the base camp.  I took photos and video at this point also.  When I was taking photo I prayed Lord Shiva to freeze this moment of happiness. (Later I found the face of God visible very clearly in the photo.  I could spot eyes, hair like formations from the top, open mouth from which a white ray came out as in 3D picture –as if all the creatures end with Him – may be Rudra – a form of Shiva). The photo of north face taken on full moon day at Pradosham time is given with this chapter.  Many had different versions after seeing this photo.  A child aged 8 years told me that “milk abhishekam” of Lingam!  And as I already told Kailash would reflect the mind of the individual.  Whatever way he looks - it would show like that.  Har Har Mahadev.

While returning from the hilltop before Kailash we could see our camps like matchboxes.  We could see the dilapidated (by Chinese) educational institutions of Buddhists.  We came back to our camp around 7 PM.  Still it was not complete dark.  Sun was slowly setting.  We could see the white colour of snow changing to red on the western side end of Kailash.  This was Nithya Pradosham time and prayers before holy Kailash at this time - on this full moon day - has greater significance and cherishable for lifetime. 

Inside the ‘Direbu’ camp, we were cracking jokes, and in happy mood. The happiness of the mind reflected on the face of everybody.  I knew today was the full moon day.  I wanted to see the full moon at the backdrop of Kailash.  After dinner, we settled in our rooms.  At around 10 PM, I went outside the camp and sat in the verandah with full winter uniform.   It was very cold outside.  I wanted to see the full moon and kailash together.  The full moon was slowly coming up.  I took my prayer books and watched the full moon and the holy Kailash, every now and then.  I know what I am enjoying now was a lifetime opportunity and I wanted to enjoy every moment of it.  With deep devotion I started reciting the slokas-seeing the book, facing Kailash, occasionally watching the full moon. The rays from the full moon (which appeared very close) fell on the holy Kailash giving a glorious view.   At midnight, I noticed that the trajectory of full moon was well in front of Kailash and I could not see the full moon at the backdrop of Kailash as I thought.  It would be very difficult to take photographs or video from this point to cover both the full moon and Kailash together.  I had to go back around 2 to 3 kms then only I could cover both.  It was absolutely impossible to go out of the camp in the mid night and that too without informing LO.  Even though I had slight disappointment, I felt happy that I could pray before God for nearly three hours sitting alone in front of Him.  I went to my bed.  I knew I had only 4 to 5 hours for sleep.  We had to start tomorrow early in the morning.

DAY 13:     13^th September 2000:     (Direbu – Dolma pass – Zongzerbu)

I woke up with greetings of “Har Har MahaDev” at six AM.  I was still sleepy.  Some of the yatris came to me and woke me up.  With a little reluctance I got up.  When I came to my senses I rushed out to see Kailash in the daytime.  There was not much light and sunrise would be there around 8 AM Chinese time. Today’s trekking was very important and tough.  We had to touch the highest point of our yatra - the Dolma pass (19,500 feet).  We were told not to stay in that area for more than a few minutes - pray God - and get down quickly.  Some of the earlier batches had experienced very cold weather and snowfall.  All the pooja materials we should have on hand since Dolma pass was only five km from here.

With reluctant mind, I started from Direbu. I had dharshan of Kailash again.  To view the sunrise and its rays turning Kailash to golden colour we had to stay here for at least another two hours.  No chance.  We had to move with the team.  We walked for an hour occasionally climbing on yak also.  There was good sunshine.  Most of the steep climb I rode on the Yak.  When we reached Dolma pass (19,500’ from MSL) the sun God was in good mood.  My co yatri and myself started praying Shiva by putting all the shiv lingams and other moorthams that I brought from chennai.  The bilva leaves brought by my co yatri were fresh.  After the pooja I gave the coloured small clothes given by the Delhi Govt to some local Tibetian girls who were there at that time.  There was a small makeshift area and a lot of colour clothes were hanging from ropes.

It is a belief, that the Goddess of Dolma pass is “Tara Devi”.  She is the “Goddess of Death”.  One who crosses this point is supposed to be entering new birth. 

From the very beginning we were worried about the Dolma pass.  This was the highest point on our trekking route and we got a lot of advise about how to deal Dolma.  But practically we were greeted with good sunshine and we did pooja there for half an hour.  Since most of us climbed the steep portions by Yaks we were not tired.  Adjacent to Dolma is the Gouri Kund.  Legend goes that Mata Parvathi took bath here.  The small pond was green in colour.  Some of us went down and collected the holy water.  We started descending from 19,500 feet.

I was happy for crossing Dolma without any problem.  Internally I was disappointed.  My idea of the Himalayas was white-white everywhere, walking over snow like in north south poles were not there for me.  May be the previous batches in June would have experienced this.  Later I happened to see some photos of Manas around 3000 feet below the Dolma turned into ice and I could imagine how it would be in Dolma.  In some other book I read how a yatri slept on a rock, which turned into ice in the night.  God had not given me all these. experiences.  In my earlier yatra to Amarnath also I could not see much ice and snow.  May be God was merciful to me that this lad from chennai could not withstand icy weather and made my “new life” easier.

Jumping over rocks and boulders we were climbing down.  This trekking was a bit tough and tiresome.  It took nearly two hours to come down.  When we reached the plains of Dolma there was a small shop, which served tea and noodles.  We took noodles.  They din't cook noodles.  They took noodles and put it in hot water and it was ready for use.  We were hungry.  We took noodles and Coke which was available in plenty.  Jumping over the water streams (river?) we started walking towards our next camp Zongzerbu, which was about 15 kms from Dolma.  The yaks we left at the top of Dolma were nowhere in sight. We continued walking.  It was a sunny day and in this plain valley we walked and walked.  There was no trace of any building.  After a few hours of walking we were tired.  Some of the yatris sat down and refused to move further.  On seeing their act happily I also joined with them.   We were expecting the yaks to come and pick us up.  I slept on the banks of the river for one hour.   We started walking again.  After sometime we saw the yaks coming from a valley from the sides.  Again like earlier occasions on seeing us the persons driving Yaks stopped and started making tea.  We knew it would take one hour or so.  Refusing to budge to their tactics we also sat there looking at them now and then.  After sometime they came to us and we had started on the yak. Even here one yatri fell down from the yak.   Fortunately there was no big injury.  My Yak dashed with another yak.  Since I was alert there was no injury for me but the other yatri had some bruises.  On seeing the base camp we got down from the yak and walked again.  We walked fast and reached the ‘ Zongzerbu’ base camp.

Time was around 5 PM.  Most of the yatris arrived.  We had good time there discussing the happenings of the day.  Everybody narrated his experiences in Dolma pass and Yak ride.  Like me, most of us were worried about Dolma and we came out without an iota of a problem. I met some foreign (?) yatris from Europe.  It was a team of four (of which two were young ladies) who had not engaged yaks but simply walking.  When I asked them they told me that they were fine and enjoying the trip.  We had tea and took rest.  Suddenly one of the yatris shouted at me to come and see outside.  I saw, two Tibetians doing parikrama, it was Saasthang parikrama.  It was circumbulating Kailash by prostrating consecutively.  I was watching this with much amusement.  In fact earlier I had seen this in the video taken by Ramakrishna Math of chennai. The pride and ego of anybody would be shattered on seeing this.  The thinking of having done an achievement of parikrama of Kailash by walking (in fact most of the time by yak) would look very small comparing their parikrama.  I ran and took my video for recording.  Near the camp where the water flows, I ran and waited.  In fact I wanted to know what they would do while crossing this stream.  Whether they would jump over the stream?  Silly mind.  My camera was on when they came.  They did not look at me.  Simply they crossed the stream portion also like land portion.   I prayed God to guide me in a more matured way. After dinner we prepared to sleep. In the night the people who came with Yaks were seen singing and dancing and at this background music, we slept.

DAY 14:     14^th September 2000:      (Zongzerbu – Tarchen)

Today we woke up at 6:30 AM only.  This was the third and final day of our Kailash parikrama.  We had to walk 15 kms to reach Tarchen.  It was almost plain trekking with occasional ups and downs.  We were trekking along with the river Dolma in this beautiful valley.  The walking today was very comfortable may be we were used to it by now.  We could not see Kailash today doing this trekking as other hills blocked the view.  Only after reaching Tarchen, we could see the South face of Kailash again.  We were slowly turning towards South.  On many places I could see “Om Mani padme Hum” (“The jewel in the lotus” or ”God residing in the heart”) inscribed in Tibetian language over stones.  Many stones were arranged in heaps like temples at many places.  On the way we could see the Rakshas Tal Lake.  The river coming from Dolma mingled with Rakshas Tal.  We met the Tibetian yatris again.  We walked the whole day and reached Tarchen in the afternoon. The South face of Kailash was visible slowly from the edges and we could see the full view from our base camp.

Our parikrama of Kailash was over now.  I thanked Lord Shiva from my heart for his kindness in this memorable event of my life.

As soon as we reached Tarchen, I went around the market to search for water can.  Only oilcan was available.  I bought one can, which was used to transport kerosene, and a sachet of washing powder and washed the can.  No use.  Still I was not happy.  Back home everybody would ask Manas water and how could I give this oil smelling water?  I bought two Coca-Cola bottles of bigger size and consumed them in a day to preserve the bottles.  I collected few bottles from the camp also.  I re charged the batteries again today and witnessed the homam conducted again today on our behalf.  I prayed Lord again and again.  I could not see Kailash from tomorrow.  We were not satisfied with what we got.  Still I needed more darshan.  I remembered while doing parikrama we were discussing about Shiva.  “Suddenly if He appeared before you and asked for a boon what would you ask?”  (May be a joke  – but the desires of the inner mind came out). Different answers would be there for this question. Kailash is the abode of God Shiva and Mother Parvathi.  We prayed Him from every angle wherever we could see Him.  We discussed about Kailash the ultimate pilgrimage for not only Hindus but for other major religions of the world also.

I slept today in the late hours, after our discussions and going out now and then to witness the Homam

DAY 15:     15^th September 2000:     
(Tarchen – Hore-Chugh- Zaidi)

To day we have to start on our manasarovar parikrama.  There was snowfall, which we could see over our bus and the vans of the yatris who came from Nepal side.  We met some of the yatris belonging to Karnataka.  They were starting Kailash parikrama today.  We advised them to have good monkey cap and glouse (seniors- you see!)  and we started around 7:30 AM with cries of  ‘Har Har Mahadev ‘.

We have to go to “Hore” to start Manasarovar Parikrama.  Hore is 28 km from Tarchen and can be covered by bus.  Parikrama of Manasarovar is from Hore to Zaidi (60 km). 

I read from books earlier that walking on the banks of Manasarovar would be very interesting, with various colours of sand, various flowers etc.  In some books I read that some times yatris could not perform the parikrama, as there were flood in the streams joining Manas.  Normally most of the yatris, who did Manas parikrama, would go by foot and some of them on horse back and in some books I read the journey would be monotonous except for the views of Manas. 

The Chinese agency, which was taking us to Hore had a talk with LO and other yatris who came here before.  They decided to go in the bus itself.  They promised us to stop at all the important places and the places of interest.  We decided to go in the bus.  I could imagine that the yatris of the future would go on cars enjoying Manas.  The religious feelings, which we got while walking, would be certainly missing when you go with mechanical conveyance.  But Manasarovar is Manasarovar.   The beautiful lake we would never forget in life, in whichever mode you go.  Even though I wanted to walk, or ride on horse, I went with the majority and as per the decision of the LO. (Since individual tastes are unworkable, in the context of team). 

We were on the way to Hore.  The bus stopped for a while.   I jumped down with the cameras and focused on Kailash.  It was a fantastic view.  There was Kailashnath with the face, eyes, nose, mouth and hair on top of Him and small naturally formed rock portion depicting Nandhi.  It was only on these points there was snow.  All the other points gave different colours. The Sky was slightly blue near Kailash (may be due to the reflection of Kailash), Deep blue on top, Brown, green colours on the hills, light green, red on the ground - gave a wonderful scene.   May be in the olden days our ancestors made the temples with the Shiva and nandhi on seeing this form of Kailash.  (You can enjoy this view in the photo given.)

We reached Hore.  Buildings with Chinese army men were there with about 30 small shops and tents selling toys toffees coke etc.    Fortunately I got a plastic can here and I felt relieved.  We spent some time here.  I went up to the banks of the Manasarovar.  On the way there was slush.  We bought some coke tins also and continued our journey.

Chugh camp is 40 kilometers from Hore.  I have read in books that the yatris would walk this distance or go on horse on the banks. (We were going in the bus with more horsepower!).  On the way the bus stopped at many places wherever it could not go with load.  We walked in these areas and boarded the bus after some distance.

Manasarovar was fantastic.  Even though, I tried my best to put my feelings in words, I was not able to do so.  I enjoyed every moment.  I walked over the banks.  The water was crystal clear.  At some places I could see the bottom of the manas for 10 to 15m distance.  Some places it was muddy.  On the shore there were many medicinal plants.  Swans were swimming at many places.  I could record a very small swan swimming.  I could not see any fish.  On the way during bus journey I could see Deer for a second and I shouted calling the attention of all.

At many places, the bus driver asked us to get down and walk.  He used to stop the vehicle later at a place where he felt hard surface was found.  We happily walked.

We started collecting moorthams.  All the small stones on the banks of the Manasarovar were considered Shiv lingams.  Many people in chennai asked me earlier to bring Manasarovar water and the moorthams.  Whenever we walked over the shores, we started collecting these small stones.

Later, it developed as a competition among the yatris.  Everybody started showing others what they got.  Some got in the form of Kailash, some got the form of Ganesh and many of us got different forms.  As I said whatever we think we could see and get in Kailash and Manas.  It would reflect our mind.

I collected many small stones and my jerkin packet was full.  I got various miniature faces of Kailash forms like Ganesh etc.  Then I struck a jackpot.  Casually I lifted a stone of size six inches from the area under the water.  When I turned it I was stunned to see the form of Ganesh.  The sides had lot of cavities resembling Scriptures.  For some time I had an envied look from others.

We continued our journey.  A river joining Manasarovar was in full spate.  Now I understood how God helped in the hour of need.  If we walked or rode by horse we would certainly face difficulty in crossing this river.  Since we were coming in the bus, we were not at all tired and at the same time we could enjoy manasarovar leisurely.  Chinese engineers (military engineers) were constructing a big bridge at this point.  Days are not far when the Manas parikrama would be done only by road.  I came to know from the engineers, that a big highway road was planned to Kailash and Manasarovar.  Maybe it would be useful for military purpose also.  By walking we crossed the bridge (still under construction) and the empty bus just crossed the river where water Level was less. The driver probably knew where the hard surface was. (Dumped materials of construction).  We boarded the bus and came to Chugh monastery.

As per our programme we had to halt here.  The monastery was big with drawings of Gods on the sides and walls.  The colours were bright. We prayed Buddha and rolled rollers which inscribed 'Om Mani Padme Hum".  This act of rotating was equivalent to chanting this mantra. Some Tibetians rotate a small stick with a cloth having this name.  These acts are like what we do with the rudraksha mala, [pushing down/pulling up the rudrakshams.] The monastery was clean and in some areas dilapilated.  These portions might be very old. I went to the area where my mind went several centuries back and I could visualize this learning institute of those great times.  Culture should be protected at any cost even though one may or may not like at this present time. The Chinese invasion destroyed this culture.  Now with the support from many areas they are being rebuilt.  From the monastery window I could see Kailash.  Manasarovar was in front and Kailash at the rear.  I came out immediately to see this beautiful scene.  Kailash and Manas together was fantastic. After some time I could snap a photo of even Kailash's reflection on manasarover.  This monastery was on the shore of Manas, and on its shore I could see horns and bones of many dead yaks.  I had a photo of Manas and Kailash through the horns of dead yak.

 Many of us wanted to stay here and enjoy the beauty and proceed only the next day.  Some of yatris (who came earlier) were insisting that we had to proceed to Zaidi camp.  May be, the fear that the bus might not come the next day. Some of us wanted to walk.  But some of them insisted that we should continue and halt at Zaidi. They told many reasons and some of them were convincing.  LO conducted an election in a democratic way, where many of us wanted to stay.  But since, the yatris who wanted to proceed were adamant, he decided to proceed.  We had to proceed after a few hours.

It was time for a get together.  All of us assembled in a place and a big circle was formed.  We took all the eatables purchased from common fund and what we carried from home.  It was distributed to all.  It was a satisfying time since the holy yatra was nearing completion.  One of the yatris (who may be angry for not halting here today) was away taking photographs.  I took video and many photos in this holy area.

We started again by bus and reached Zaidi, which was 20 km away from Chugh.

By the grace of God, we completed Kailash and Manas parikramas.  I could imagine how our ancestors travelled in these areas.  With humble mind, I prayed for their blessings.  I prayed for all the people known to me and for their welfare.  We entered Zaidi camp.

I knew the importance of staying on the shores of the holy Manas.  I had read in books that many ‘Devas’ would come and take bath in early mornings.  It was just two days after the full moon day.  I was expecting the moon’s arrival.

The sky was clear.  We finished our dinner.  I went to the Manas to see its beauty in the night.  It was around 9 PM.  It was beyond my capacity to describe.  There were shades of light streaking through the clouds gently.  The moon started rising.  It’s light just reflected over the Manas.  Sitting on the shore I enjoyed every moment and recorded it in the video also.  Care should be taken about the battery of the video camera.  Even in the normal cold climate batteries would exhaust fast.  If we shoot in the night with the option of night mode, batteries would run down much faster.  I sat on the shore up to 11 PM enjoying the gradual rise of the moon and its effects on Manas.  Stars were there in plenty and seemed to be very near.  Nearby some of the yatris sang cine songs and enjoyed the moment.  I did not join them.  Not that I did not like it but to keep my mind in religious state - to enjoy the moment more.

There were plenty of lakes everywhere.  All were beautiful.  But Manas was incomparable due to its position at an altitude of something close to 17,000 feet MSL and its importance due to the religious sentiments (created by Brahma).

I happened to see at chennai earlier, some photographs of Manasarovar (taken in the month of January).  There was only snow everywhere.  The whole lake was big white ice and whatever land portion we could see was also white in colour.

When I saw the Manas again with this background, the natural respect for Nature arose.  Whether we would withstand that temperature of winter? - The sound of waves of water slashing manasarovar’s shores diverted my mind.

It was cold.  We returned to the base camp.  I told some yatris to wake me up at 3 AM to see the Manas (and to meet Devas?).  I went to sleep. 

DAY 16:     16^th September 2000:     (@Zaidi)

“Sundar, get up… get up.”  I was not dreaming.  I could not get up from my bed.  Actually I was prepared for this moment for many days.  I told my mind, if somebody woke me I have to get up immediately.  But there was always “Maya” preventing us to see the real thing.  Maya Devi diverts our attention to many other things.  Even if God came before us, if Maya Devi diverted our attention, we could not see Him.  I had not responded to their call.  Some of them went to Manas and returned.  Suddenly when I got up it was around 6 AM.  It was not total darkness. Some light was there.  I took my cameras and ran to the Manas.  Yes.  Sun God started coming up from the holy Manas.  Wonderful moments.  Fortunately I did not miss the sunrise at Manas.  There were black clouds and after some time the sun went inside the clouds.  I could film the event.  There were snow-covered peaks of Mandada and other hills.  I could see Manas change its colour every moment like kaleidoscope.   White, black, rose, red and gold colours I could spot alternatively.  Manas reflected the Sunrays and the colour of the sky.  I was thrilled like all those who came to witness this event.  The clouds were playing hide and seek with the Sun giving a magic touch to Manas down below.

We returned to our camp.  Today we had to perform the homam  (from the common fund) around 11 AM.  Some of us joined together and took towels and fresh dress and came to Manas for bath.  It was a sunny day.  For most of them the bath in Manas was for the first time.  I was a senior there since I took bath before going to Kailash and they asked me about my experience!

Although God is one, there are differences in the forms of God.  For example the form of Ganesh would be different from the southern part of India to the northern part.  Since we were used to a particular image in our mind, we may not get the “Bhakthi” if we worship a different form. (This was my experience and may not be for all).  The same applies to the way of poojas offered.  To have more devoted prayers, myself, and one of the yatris, who belonged   to the South, decided to do the pooja separately.  Not that we were averse to join together with others.  We wanted to complete our pooja (in the South Indian style) first and then join them.

My co- yatri and myself took towels, dry clothes, pooja kits etc., and walked towards Chugh side. I told him my condition.  We should sit in a place for the pooja where Kailash also should be seen along with the Manas.  On the way, we had seen yatris from Gujarat doing pooja separately.  After walking a km, we could see Manasarovar with the backdrop of Kailash.  We sat there.

I took my bath in the holy Manas for the second time.  I prayed God Shiva, Mata Parvathi and dipped fully under the water for 3 times.  Inside the Manas it was different experience.  The whole body was shivering after the first dip.  I quickly did the second and the third dip fully covering the head and body inside the water.  I stood in the water for sometime for prayers.  Kailash was visible fully. Looking towards Kailash, I prayed Shiva, standing in the Manasarovar water.

My co yatri came to the shore and gave dry clothes to me.  Now it was time for him to take bath.  We joined together and arranged for the pooja.  Incense sticks were lighted.  Icons of Ganesh, Shiva lingams, and photos were placed.  My friend went to Manas and took some sand and made a form of Ganesh.  I put my collections, which I got from the Manas earlier, resembling Ganesh, and other moothams. Offerings to God (sweets, dry fruits etc.,) were placed.  I put the picture of my family deity (Kattiappar –Iyyappan of Pandithakudi near Mannarkudi, Tamil nadu). I placed small stones collected from various temples I visited earlier and the sand collected from Rameswaram.  I placed silver bilva leaves and silver coins made (to give as a gift to fellow yatris – one side inscribed Om and the other side showing Kailash view).

I started reciting all the slokas known to me.  I took my prayer book and started reciting with devotion.  We did not see the time.  We were daily doing pooja.  When would we get the chance again to do it in front of Manas and the Kailash!.  The Tamil and Sanskrit slokas and songs praising Shiva were recited with much love and devotion.  Maybe our pooja was not as per the shastras but certainly God would have liked it.  We had a break in between to bring some water from Manas for the Abhishek. We had honey, sandal powder, milk powder, viboothi (holy ash) etc.

 When I was looking around at this time, I found a striking scene.  While all other areas in the sky were white there was a black cloud, resembling the picture normally we see the head portion of Lord Ganesh with big ears and his trunk touching the water.  This image was reflected on the Manas water also.  I took my video camera and started filming it. In the mean time my co yatri came with Manas water.  I asked him not to speak with sign language.  I thought that image of God will go.  He also was mesmerised like me.    I could record this.  We thought the Gods were listening to us, and with prayers we started  ‘abhishekam’.

  At this time, a South Korean came.  He was doing Manas parikrama by foot.  He was curious to know what we were doing.  He came to us and wanted to join with us in the prayer.  He also did abhishekams of Ganesh and Lingams with us.  Deepam was shown to the Gods.  Prasadams were offered.  I was shocked to see the time.  It was 12 30 hrs. The South Korean chided me for not wearing shirts for so long.  The chill atmosphere of Manas started penetrating the skin.  I hurriedly put on my thermal wear and jerkins.  So far, for the past two to three hours I had not worn any dress for the pooja time except dhoti. It was not correct to be like this in Manas area.  We put all our clothes inside the bag and started to the camp.  On the way we could see swans swimming in the Manas.  Suddenly drizzling started.  We could see lot of dark clouds.  We ran to our camp.

We missed the homam conducted by our batch, since more than two hours we were doing our pooja.  After lunch, in the evening I went to the homam site and applied the holy ash on the forehead.  It was time to collect the holy water.  We went away from our campsite on the other side (not on the chugh side).  We could not go after a km or so.  Manas parikrama was not done for the full round.  One side of Manas was hills and in this area normally the yatris could not walk.   From Hore to Zaidi  (60 km) only we could go as parikrama. 

Some of the yatries took bath.  I felt satisfied.  Sitting on a rock, putting my legs in the water I was enjoying.  The sunrise reflected back like diamonds.  Hurriedly I took my video camera and recorded it.  Looking at Kailash I prayed with “Lingashtakam”.  I returned to the camp carrying Manas water in water cans and manas in mind.

In the camp, we discussed about manasarovar and Rakshas tal lakes.

What we read earlier, and came to know through our guide was shared.

	Manasarovar Lake	Rakshastal lake
From MSL	14950 feet	Almost same level
Circumference	86.4 km	123 km
Area	300 sq miles	140 sq miles
Depth	Av. 300 feet	Av.140 feet
Other Names	Ane dada, Anava dapta (Pali - Sanskrit books), Bindusara (mahabharath) BadmaHarada (jain books Maphame Tso (Tibetian)	Lingak cho, Ravana Sarovar. Rakshas sarovar, Ravana Harada LangangTso (Tibetian)

 Like the previous day we enjoyed the moonrise in the Manas.  I sat on the shore in the night in total silence with the background music of waves hitting the shores.  I retuned to the camp after two hours.  I was fully satisfied with what I got.  I slept today with a calm mind. 

         DAY 17:   17^th September 2000:    (Zaidi –Taklakot)

Today we had to leave Manasarovar.  I didn’t know whether I would see Manasarovar and the Kailash again in my life.  God was kind to me and to this batch.  We enjoyed the Kailash and Manas without any slightest hurdle.

There was sadness in the face of everybody for leaving Manas.  We had tearful look at the Manas again and boarded the bus with thanksgiving  “Har Har Maha deva” cries.  We crossed the Rakshas Tal also and were heading for Taklakot.  We reached Taklakot around 3 PM.  We were one-day earlier in our programme due to the bus travel of Manas parikrama.  We took rest for some time.

 In the camp, to my surprise I met an old lady around 73 years.  There was a team of Europeans just arrived.  They were going to Kailash and Manas the next day.  The face of the Lady I would never forget.  It was glowing with the experiences of the life –the ups and downs-in the form of many lines.  Late in the evening I met the team and had a chat.  They were coming from Switzerland. I told the old lady, about our thinking of switz.  It was the most beautiful country in the world.  Apart from religious things snow and ice were attraction for a person from the plains but for the Swiss people it was part of the environment.  What for they have come here?

The grand old lady, called me.  She put her hand on my shoulder.  With soft, gentle voice she told, “My dear son, you don't know about Kailash.  It is a magnet.  I came here 23 years ago.  Now I am back here with my grandson and family”.  Her soft voice melted me.

How come I consider Kailash was only for the Hindus.  For God, all were His children.  We call Him in different names, in different languages, in different ways and in different forms. It was like the same individual looks as - son, brother, father, uncle, grandfather to different persons.  He manifests into many forms.  The problem begins when one says that only his form of God is superior to others.  We spend Millions of rupees to protect our Gods!  How silly it is.  Like all the rivers mingle into the sea - all the religions reach the ultimate – one God.

Hindu, Buddhist, Jan and Bonpo: each religion holds different beliefs.   Each sees different form of Gods, but the reality is the same.  

At this site of natural power the temporal and the eternal unite. The divine takes physical form.

In the Guest house there was plenty of time but no work.  We, like-minded yatris sat together and discussed what we knew, read from many books about Kailash and Manasarovar.  The talk was interesting with many new things came up for discussion.  Now we can see what the major religions of the world, view the holy Kailash and Manasarovar.

HINDUISM:

We the Hindus, cross the frozen mountain passes of India, cross Dolma pass, come to Tibet, to do parikrama of kailash and manasarover.

Kailash is the abode of Shiva and Parvathi.  The radiant silvery summit is the throne of truth, wisdom and bliss.  The sound “OM” from the tinkling anklets of “Lalitha Prakruthi” created the visible patterns of the universe and the vibrations (dvani) came from the feet of Shiva as Nataraja weaved the essence of atman. The truth.  The spreading resonance and limitless patterns constitute the grosser forms of all matters to accurate scale.  This is “Thandav” visualized in millions of forms by the devotees.

The silvery mountain is the apex where the sound (nada) and the light merge and the true yogi transcends both these and merges into OM.  Mind is the knot tying consciousness and matter.  This is set free here.  This is the heart of Indian philosophy and Manasarovar reflects the Indian consciousness.

Kailash – the mere mention of name itself will have an impact on any Hindu.  This is the ultimate.  River Ganga while entering the earth descended on the peak of Kailash.  Shiva quelled her fury by receiving it on His matted locks.  Ganga, it is believed descends further from Kailash and after circuiting Kailash seven times, divides herself into four major rivers, Lohita (Brahmaputra), sindhu (Indus), shatadru (sutlej) and karnali.

Kailash is called “Hima parvath”, Himothgiri, and many other names. In Sri Lailitha sahasranama it is mentioned as ‘Sumeru mathya sringastha’.  In ‘yohine nyasa’ it is mentioned as ‘Maha kailasa nilaya and Mahathee meru nilaya’.  In Vedas also there are details of Kailash in many places.

As befits a cosmic mountain, Meru is given a special description in the Hindu Vishnu Purana of 200 BC.  It raises 84,000 leagues high at the centre of the universe, encircled by the concentric rings of the seven continents and seven oceans.  The mountain’s four faces are oriented to four directions. The South face of Kailash is described as Saphire, East the crystal, West as ruby and North as Gold.  The sun, moon and stars take their course about this dazzling central pivot and the multiple tiered realms of heaven, earth and underworld are spread atop its summit.  Holy Kalpaga Viruksha tree is supposed to adorn its slopes.  Those who take holy dip in Manas and do parikrama of Kailash are absolved of their sins through generations and is absorbed into the supreme.  To him there is no re birth, sorrows or joys.  He is the one with the ultimate. He is one with Shiva.  He becomes Shiva. SHIVOGAM.   SHIVOGAM. 

BUDDHISM:

Buddhists worship Kailash in a big way.  They come from Ladak, Bhutan, Nepal and Mangolia to this holiest of mountains, which they call “Kang Rinpoche” – the precious snow mountain.  The educational institutions of Buddhists were very famous in olden days.  Many such monasteries around Kailash and Manas gave spiritual education to the students of not only Buddhism but also to students of different religions.  Only after the Chinese invasions they last their charm.

Before Buddhist religion came to Tibet there was SHANANSTIC (BON) religion with Shang Chung government.  They prayed Kailash as ‘Kungtise”.  It was also called ‘Swasthik” mountain.  (Nine storied Swastika Mountain). 

When Boudha religion spread in Tibet in 7 AD, a saint called ‘Milerpa’ fought with “Banpo shaman Naroshi” and captured Kailash from “Bonpo” sect.  After some time Kailash came to “Kargu “sect.

In the period of ‘Kargu” improvements to Kailash and Manas area were done.  They constructed many monasteries.  In Buddha book “Maha Nirvana Thandira’ Kailash is described in full.

Buddhists believe queen Maya, was taken to Manasarovar before giving birth to Buddha.  There was contest between Tantric Buddism and Bonpo faith for supremacy.  Yogi Milerpa (representing Tantric Buddism) and Naro Bonchung (a majician representing Bonpo faith) agreed for the contest of owning the Kang Rimpoche (kailash).  Whoever reaches the summit first at dawn could claim the mountain.  Bonchung was seen flying to the summit mounted on his shamanistic drum, while Milerpa was in deep meditation.  The majician almost reached the summit, when the first ray touched the summit.  Thro’ his power of concentration, Milerpa merged with the ray, and before Bonchung realised what happened, appeared on top.  With shock, Bonchung dropped his Damaru, which bounced back down the Kailash, leaving a deep cut wherever it hit.  The vertical lines what we see now, is the cut, Buddhists believe.  Buddha taught, “Mercy is stronger than Karma”, which is the philosophy of Milerpa also.

On the peak of Kailash, Buddhists –in earlier days established a powerful God – “Domchek”. He has 12 arms.  Devi of Domchek was ‘Dorgi Bsmo” (vajravarshi).  She is red in colour.  On the right hand she has knife, which destroy desires.  She rotates that in all directions.  With the left hand she holds Domchek in nirvana stature.  They were inseparable. 

One can compare this with what Hindus pray Shiva and Parvathi.  Here Parvathi sits on the lap of Shiva who is on the Padmasana posture with His Ganas around.  Shiva and Shakthi are inseparable. Infact, Shiva has given half his portion to parvathi as” Ardhanareeswarar”.

Kailash is also called ‘Meru” parvath.  As in Boudha books palace of “Birma” is in Meru.  It has 4 stages.  “Yatchas” live in first three stages and “Devas” live in the fourth stage.  Each stage is 10,000 ‘ Kadam” apart.

Tibetian scriptures also speak of the four rivers of Kailash.  They are

‘Senge Khambab’, the river flowing North of Manas coming from the mouth of lion; (river Seetha – now called river Indus/ Sindhu)

‘Mapcha Khambab” the river flowing south of manas from the mouth of peacock; (river Sind – now called river Karnali)

‘Tamchock Khambab”, the river flowing east of Manas coming from the mouth of Horse; (river “Pak shu’/ ‘Vak shu” -now called river Brahmaputra)

  “Langchen Khambab”, the river flowing west of Manas, coming from the mouth of elephant.  (River Ganga – now called river Sutlej)

(As per the belief of Tibetians, Ganges started from the peak of Kailash and changed into “sumic thang dol” a stream.  This stream through bronze pipes reaches Manasarovar Lake and from there these four rivers formed, and do parikrama of Kailash seven times).

Recent findings shows,

River Sindh originates, North east of Kailash, 99km from manasarovar at a stream called “Sench kom pop”.

Origin of river Karnali is at a stream called “Mapsa Sungo” 48km south east of Manasarovar.

Origin of river Brahmaputra is traced to peak of “semayang Dung” 99km southeast of Manasarovar.

Origin of river Sutlej is near a stream at “Danchu Kompa” 48 km east of Rakshastal lake.

All these four major rivers originate within 72 km circumference of each other.

JAINISM:

The Jain religion knows Kailash as “ mount Astapada”.  Atop the summit, its founder, Rishabananda gained spiritual liberation.

Even today, many jains do Kailash parikrama and try to get astapada darshan and Jains believe that what Jain scriptures mention as “Mount Meru” is Kailash.

CHRISTIANITY:

My knowledge about holy Bible is limited.  Infact, I had not thought about the connection between Christians and Kailash.  I met one European group during the second day of Kailash Parikrama where some young ladies did this tough parikrama by foot.

Now, when I met this old lady and her family members from Switzerland here at Taklakot, my curiosity about the Christian connections with Kailash developed.  Later when I met a chief medical Officer of Railways he clarified me.  Jesus Christ spent his young age here learning in the Buddhist institututions.  ‘The ‘Un known years” of Jesus Christ was spent in Kailash.  I was told that there are lot of similarities with Bible and Boudh books.  May be the Boudh education influenced His teachings.  Many Christian pilgrims had also visited this place earlier.

VISITORS TO KAILASH:

In Vedas, there are many details of Kailash.  Rishi Thathathreya has done Kailash parikrama.  Vyasa bhagvan and later Bheema has done Kailash parikrama.  Arjuna came to Kailash for Raja surya yagam and obtained gold, yaks etc., as gifts from the kings ruling at that time. 

In 269 BC king of “katyri” (of kumaon) Nandi deva went via ‘yundathruva’ peaks and won kailash area.  The notings from Chinese traveller ‘yuwan suwang’ are also available. 

As per Bronze scripts in Pandukeswar temple (between Badrinath and Joshimath) Katyari kings ruled west Tibet. (Where Kailash and manas were situated).

Adi shankara went to Kailash from Kedarnath (leaving his body there) and had Shiva Parvathi darshan.  On seeing Shiva he praised Him from foot to head and not satisfied he praised Him from head to foot again.  On seeing Mata Parvathi he could not sing as he was struck with Her beauty.  On seeing his condition Shiva gave him 100 songs which He had composed praising Parvathi.  He gave him Pancha lingams also.

(He established Boga lingam at Kanchipuram, Mukthi lingam at Kedarnath, Vara lingam at Nepal –neelakanda kshetram, Yoga lingam at sringeri and Motcha lingam at chidambaram).  When he was coming out, Nandi devar forcibly removed some leaves containing 51 slokas.  Shiva and parvathi gave darshan and power to him to make the missing 51 slokas.  The first 49 songs (composed by Shiva himself) are called ‘Ananda Lahiri’ and 51songs composed by Adi Shankara later is called ‘Soundarya Lahiri’.

In Tamil puranams, Thirunavukarasar, the great Tamil poet, the great Avvaiyar, Karaikal Ammaiyar (Shiva called her oh mother! –Ammayae) undertook kailash yatra and gave many beautiful songs praising the holy Kailashnath

Many great Rishis and Devas made tapas here in this area.  In the recent centuries many yatris had darshan of Kailash.  Most of them were anonymous.  Very few have left records of their journey.  A pilgrim’s journey is intensely personal and due to this fact many ordinary souls who later came didnot have any idea.  The awakening done by the great ‘Adi shankara’ who travelled every inch of the country spreading Advaita made many people plan their trips to the unknown areas previously.

In the recent times,

In 1715, ‘Ippalitto Dicidiri (a Christian) came to Kailash.

In 1812, ‘Villiam Moor Craft’ noted about manasarovar in his book.

In 1897, ‘Ekai Kara Kuchi’ a Boudh bikku from Japan came to Kailash and recorded many details in his book.

In 1907, ‘Heyton” has given many interesting details hitherto unknown areas like the origin of Indus, Sutlej, Brahmaputra etc., He was in this area upto 1909.

In 1908, Bhagwan Sri Hamsa wrote a book in Marathi about Kailash. (Which was later translated in English).

In 1918, Edwin Gilbetchrey” has done Kailash yatra.

In 1925 – 1930, swami Thapovanji Maharaj undertook Kailash yatra and narrated his experience in Malayalam book Kailaya yatra and Himagiri yatra.

Swami Pravananandha was the most important among all.  During 1920 and 1928 he did Kailash parikrama for 23 times and Manasarovar parikrama 25 times.  He did research of Kailash and Manas and wrote books in English and Hindi.  He was a scholar in Telugu also.  He did boating in Manas with congress flag and saffron flag with “om” inscription.  He gave very interesting details, which proved wrong the details of many westerners.

In 1935, an Italian “Kuchi” came to Kailash.  Notable thing was he took away Boudh books weighing one tonne! by bribing.

In 1937, an all ladies team went to kailash and did parikrama. (Disciples of Kelasri Narayana swamiji of Gujarath).

In 1938 a lady, smt. Ananda Mayigi went to Kailash.

In 1940, smt Samadhar and smt Rukmani did parikrama with their husbands.

Sri. Ganesha swami did Kailash parikrama many times.

In 1943-1944 sri Kailash Charana (a Lingayath from Karnataka) did 100 parikramas of Kailash.

In 1944, sri. T.N. Krishnaswami and Kalyanasundaram went from tamilnadu to Kailash yatra.

The above list is not a complete one.  Several more yatris had done Kailash yatra in these years.

Many devotees of Shiva from various parts of the country undertook this holy yatra.

Our group discussion ended now.

We were silent after a good discussion, thinking about the conditions of those days and our present conditions.

Again, today I went to telephone exchange.  My wife and son were called.  I called my father, mother, and brother also and informed them about the holy trip.  They were very happy.  My brother enquired about my health. (Doctor you see!). I called my sister and Brother in law also.

 After some packing and re packing we went to bed.

DAY 18:     18^th September 2000:     (at Taklakot)

At Taklakot.  There was no message from the Indian side about our return trip.  Since we were supposed to come only on 20th we were yet to get message.  This was, due to one spare day already given and the gain of two days we got due to our bus trip of Manas.  Our LO sent message that we were waiting.

Today, we planned to go to “Kojarnath” 20 km from here by bus.  I came to know that it would take more than three hours to return.  After breakfast we started.  The road was very rough with plenty of hairpin bends and the bus crossed rivers.  I was sitting near the driver's seat.  Most of the time on the hairpin bends I closed my eyes. I didn't want to see the driving.  But it must be said that only very experienced drivers could drive in this route.  In the plains the bus crossed many water streams also!

On the way I saw many houses.  I noticed they made electricity by solar power.  I could see solar panels in most of the houses in this area.  Otherwise in this region it would be difficult to get power.  My thoughts went back to India.  We are making atom bombs, send satellites to sky.  But most of us in the villages live in the poor state.  For little comforts we pay heavily by foreign exchange.  As our prime Minister once said (while in opposition) “we need computer chips.  Not potato chips from the foreigners”.  We get all types of the petrol, diesel cars, CFC free fridges etc., killing all the local manufacturers.  But nobody brings technology used for common man.  We have to learn a lot from china.  They produce mass materials and sell them cheaply.  Globalisation is not bringing real need of the local people and there is no encouragement also from the government for the users of solar power.  Imagine if we get income tax concessions for using solar powered cars or solar panels in house.  This will improve the self-reliance of the country since we have abundant solar power and no other country is interested to give us this advanced technology.  They give us vehicles, which will touch 100kms in 5 seconds whereas we cannot drive 30 km speed in our cities!

Sudden jolt of the bus stopped my thinking.  We had come to “Kojarnath” temple.  I could see some boards informing Chinese government schemes.  We got down from the bus seeing the big Chinese letters on the wall.  Going to the temple was like chasing in old war movies.  We went inside the houses, in dark verandahs, to the left and right and reached the temple.  Children were playing.  The rollers with “Om mani padme hum” were there.  We rolled them. This mantra was there on many flags, chiseled on stones, and on walls.  This is the incantation of Tibetians, along with clockwise rotation of prayer wheel or Mani cho –khor in these areas.   After some time, a man came and opened the temple.  There were flowers on both sides inside the temple.  We were slowly moving.  We could see the big statues.  They say it was Rama, Lakshmana and Sita to all Hindus (and for others it was related to Buddha). For a matured person what was there in name?  I feel God gets different names in different areas.

I prayed with much devotion.  Legend is that the God here spoke once.  Such a holy place.  We could pay money and take photos.  Old currency notes, coins etc. were available there for a price. We lighted candles there.  On the outer verandah I could spot a nice drawing and they told me that, that was Vibishana.   Adjacent to this temple was another temple.  It was bigger in size than the earlier one.  Buddha statues were seen there.  Diffused light from the top gave a soft touch inside.  There was a room for the mother of Buddha, which was in total darkness.  We prayed there for sometime silently.

We came back to the main entrance where our bus was parked.  On the way my video camera again got repaired.  Was it because I videoed the Gods without their permission?  Anyway I was happy that I had recorded the maximum portion of the yatra.  I had one more camera (Handicam) with me of my fellow yatri.  If there was any need I could take with the camera also but I had only 43 minutes of the videocassette left.

We returned to our camp at Taklakot. We washed some clothes and put them for drying.  After dinner it was time for celebration.  All the yatris were in fantastic mood for having completed the yatra and parikrama's of Kailash and Manasarovar.

My son wanted me to bring some Chinese coins.  In fact, my sister also interested in coin collection.  I could not find any coins. (Surprising!). All we had was only currency notes.  In the market also I could not find even one coin.  When I requested our tour agent, he gave all of us few coins (brand new).  I took these coins and went to market again and asked the persons there showing these coins.  When I enquired an army officer, he called fellow officers and shown this coins and discussed with them.  I could not follow.  I thought about problems for our agent.  I got the coins back and returned to the camp fast.  I don’t want any problems in a foreign land. (That too in china!)

One of the yatris who came 2 years back (from my native place) had shown me a small silver coin depicting “om” on one side and the image of kailash on the other side (which he presented to other yatris).  My father took the initiative and got the place of minting and made 40 silver coins of the same. (Earlier I put these coins also in my pooja at manas).  I gave one coin each to all my co yatris.  The value of the coin is not that much.  But it is a remembrance for them on this happy day of completing Kailash and Manas parikramas.  When they thanked me, I thanked the yatri at my native place who gave this idea.

Most of us assembled in a room and there were jokes, stories, and songs in various Indian languages with occasional dances for the tune.  Celebrations went on till after midnight.  We went to bed around 1 am.

DAY 19:     19th September 2000:     (at Taklakot)

No news from the Indian side.  We had to stay here today also.  I tried to repair my video camera and now it was working.  We took complete rest.  We took bath in hot water (a rare event now) and I called my wife and told that we could move only tomorrow. I told her that from now onwards I would talk only wherever the phone facilities were there. 

We went to Lunch.  The dry roties brought by Gujarati yatris were still good.  Surprising!  The girl who served the food was seen singing a nice song in the kitchen area.  The LO called me.  I went with my Handicam and requested her to sing again and recorded it.

Again, there was some problem within the group.  Some yatris had difference of opinion with the LO.  In the idle mind devil enters.  Since there was no work, a lot of unwanted things happened.  The news from Indian side came.  We could start tomorrow.

DAY 20:     20th September 2000.

(Taklakot- Lipu lek pass- Navidang ‘Om parvath’ - Kalapani – Gunji)

 We started at 6 AM after breakfast.  In an hours time the bus halted.  Here after we had to walk for an hour.  After one hour’s walking, horses arrived.  We could go on the horse upto Lipu Lek pass, on the Chinese side.  The sun was slowly rising.  The peaks changed their colour from white to gold.  There was snow everywhere. 

I could not take video when we came to china due to restrictions imposed by our ITBF.  Now I took my video and covered the Lipu Lek fully, sitting on horse and holding video camera on one hand.  It was a lovely experience to be in the snow area for me since I never had this experience in my life.  Whatever I could not see earlier on a rainy time, I could see now.  After two hours we reached the top of Lipu Lek pass.  Here also there was snow at many places and it was a wonderful sight.  We hugged the jawans who came to receive us.  “Bharath Mata ki jai”,  “Om Namasivaya” went up the air.  Home sweet home.

  We left most of our luggage on top of the Lipu Lek Pass.  From here, the contractor of KMVN will take charge and bring the luggage down. We took account of what we left on the top of the Lipu Lek pass.  We started descending from the top.  Climate was very good.  We carefully walked over the snow for about quarter km and then we walked fast.  We reached Navidong around 11:30 AM.  On the way we could see the broken parts of a helicopter, which failed and crashed here a few years back.  When we were going up, we could not see the famous “om” parvat, since it was dark when we arrived and in the early morning (night) 3 AM we left.  Now we could see the majestic OM parvat. The letter “Om” was there shining in snow when all the other areas in contrast black.  Everybody photographed the surroundings and Om Parvat.  I was late for the Lunch since I was taking video on my return journey.  I took my quota of puris.  There were group patriotic songs with jawans.

Suddenly a bolt from the blue came.  The Army Officer was scolding one of the yatris - a learned one - for his alleged mis- behavior enroute, presumably on a complaint.  He threatened him that he would be detained there itself for enquiry.  I could not follow initially, since he was talking in Hindi, but the tone and actions were sufficient for me to understand.   To my surprise, some of the yatris also joined with him and complained.  It was not acceptable to me.  I was stunned on the sudden events.  It was a shame that I could not go to the rescue of the gentleman openly at that time. Some yatris were happy for the event  ‘-yes he deserved it’ ‘and others’ no it is not correct’.  But the gentle man yatri reacted appropriately for that moment.  If I had been in his place, I fear, I could not have behaved like him.  It was very easy to attack somebody when he was in trouble.  I didn’t want to comment for the reasons of this happenings but I felt these sort of things should not happen at all.  Ego persists still after the holy yatra.

We were not in a mood to stay there and started trekking down.  On the way also, I took a view of holy OM parvath and recorded. Trekking beyond this point was very easy and we walked fast.  We were on the way to ‘ Kalapani’.  The yatri coming with me was tired and got on a horse as a horse wallah was coming up to receive us.  They were supposed to pick us up from Lipulek.  But the program changes had not reached them.  I walked alone.  I knew I was coming in the last of the batch.  Crossing rivers on wooden bridges I headed up. Navidang village was very small but beautiful.  I arrived at the rest house at 3PM as I faced slight drizzle for the last 2 km.  All the other yatris were waiting for me to collect the passport for entry.  The Chinese even though checked our passports did not make any entry.  We had tea there.  After collecting passports, I went to the Kali temple, which I missed when I came up. The Jawan showed the holy pond, from where Kali River starts.  There were lot of Coloured papers tied to ropes and the whole area was in festive mood with songs from loud speakers.  I could see the Vyasa Guha also.  It was on 2/3^rd portion of a very high hill.  Impossible for the normal yatri, to go there.  The jawans told that a Kailash Manas lady yatri- a trekking instuctor went there with some jawans a few years back.  Vyasa would have made thapas on the banks of river kali.  Over the years river Kali penetrated this loose hills and now flows below 1000 feet.  We prayed Lord Shiva Parvathi Kali and Vyasa and started from the camp.  In the camp there were discussions going on whether we could stay here. Most of us prepared to move and we started to Gunji on horseback.  All these places I could not record earlier due to restrictions. I could do it now.  We reached Gunji around 7 30 pm and straight away went to the bed.  We covered 23 km from Lipulek pass to Kunji on a single day. Which was programmed for 2 days.  Our luggage did not reach us. 

After dinner we went to bed.

DAY 21:     21st September 2000      @ Gunji

    We woke up around 7 AM.  No trace of luggage.  The officer in charge of KMVN rest house informed us that due to heavy snow in Lipu lek pass our luggage was trapped in.  The horses which went for collecting luggage ran away -he said.  He was yet to get further information.  We collected the spare bag, which we left earlier here.  We used available dresses.    In the morning, we had a wonderful darshan of the pyramid

shaped “Annapoorna” snow peak and other peaks.  At a point near kitchen we had Darshan of a part of “Adi Kailash” also.  The cook told me that we could get a good Darshan of Adi Kailash on the other side of the valley.

To pass time, we went to a temple nearby and then had a nice chat with Jawans.  Later at the camp, some yatris charged others for the happenings of yesterday.   Not knowing Hindi also was in one way helpful.  No body could fight with me. Isn’t it? (Just a joke).

Afternoon we had a meeting in which we decided to move further to Budhi camp next day.  There were some murmurs also.  ‘How to go further, when our luggage had not reached so far,  and no information about it’ etc.  Night we stayed here with a lot of discussions.

22nd September 2000     (Gunji – Budhi)

We started around 9 AM after breakfast.  Some of us stayed back.  They said after collecting luggages only they will proceed. We passed Gunji village, crossed a bridge and went on the other side.  We had wonderful Dharshan of  “Adi Kailash” (“Chotta Kailash” as called by local).  We prayed Adi Kailash with ‘Har Har Mahadev’ cries.  It was an excellent view with no clouds at all.  White snow was on the peak and in most of the places down below, giving a view of milk abhishekam for the holy Hill.  KMVN arranges separate programme for visiting Holy Adi Kailash.

The climate was cold and the route was excellent.  The waterfalls, which we saw earlier, were not there.  We walked mostly, and went on horse back also for some distance.  We took tea and some snacks in a shop at Gurbyong village.  Weather was excellent.  We have to walk another 3 km to reach Budhi.  Climbing down on this hill was easy.  There were beautiful flowers of different colours all over the hill as if there was a flower show going on, in a natural setting.  Violet, yellow, white red, blue flowers at the back drop of green shrubs, with blue and white sky at top was superb.  We could see river Kali roaring down below in a valley as a thick white line.  I have not seen “valley of flowers’ of Himalayas but this was a “hill full of flowers”.  We reached Budhi camp around 3 PM.  There was clear sky up to this point.  After 4 PM it suddenly became dark and rain started.

  Back in Gunji, after a lot of persuasion and subsequent firm orders the yatris staying in Gunji started around 1 PM.  Now they got trapped in the rain and darkness.  Some of us took torches and went back in the same route in search of them.  After a few hours trekking we could hear their voice and the light of torches.  They also saw our light signals.  It was almost dark and they were tired and hungry.  The Kunji authorities would have forced them to vacate on the orders of LO.  They did not take any food in the night also.  Some of us stayed with them in the night to calm them down.  Ego makes a big dent in our daily activities and with ego, groups are divided into many groups. We got some good information also.  Our luggage, which we left in Lipu lek pass, had been taken out from the snow and it was on the way down.

DAY 23:  23^rd September 2000:     (Budhi – Dharchula)

There where whispers around how to proceed further.  Many yatris wanted to go to Dharchula base camp in a short route, since in the long route it would take a day extra and steep up gradient.  They were arguing that they didn’t have any extra dress also.  A new set of KMVN staff arrived in the morning at the camp.  They came via the short route and assured us there was no problem in this route.  But officially the route was not cleared due to landslides, which happened previously.  But the staff and the doctor who came now told that there was no problem and the local people were using it.

The Yatra group was divided on how to proceed.  The LO called base camp thro walky talkie available with the staff and asked whether this route was opened officially.  In typical bureaucracy we got the reply that it was not opened officially.  The magistrate officially didnot open this route. Nobody wanted to take any risk.  So the long route, which we came, was only officially open.  I was in a dilemma.  Which route to go?  Only five yatris including the LO was going on the long route.  All other yatris preferred short route. This shorter route diverts from the village Lakanpur.  Via Mangthi we can go to Dharchula.

I had not decided upto the junction point  (Lakhanpur) where diversion started.  Even though my mind was willing to go only on the official route with LO, my legs went on the shorter route.  This sort of situation I did not like.  We should have followed the LO since he was doing correct as per procedure. (May be the LO should have convinced the base camp officials about the views of the majority and the ground situation or force others to follow him).

 There was a big welcome shout for me in the teashop where the other yatris were taking rest after few kms.  They did not expect me in this route.  I yielded to the pressure from my co yatri, coming with me from the beginning, to come in this route.  This route was also very good with many waterfalls.  At one point makeshift wooden planks placed between rocks touched the Kali River.  But the situation during rainfall may be worse.  Even now, waterfalls were there in this route. (When all the other water falls between Gunji and Gurbyang dried up!).

On the other side of Kali, I noticed big waterfalls joining Kali River.  For around one km we walked at the level of Kali River, in a narrow path of two feet wide. It was the first time I touched the Kali River. 

In some of the places, Kali river flows down between big rocks in a narrow place, like water falls.  Here the force was terrible and I could see rainbow colours in the resultant water showers.

Fortunately, there was no problem anywhere.  At one point we could see big poclain machines making new roads and cleaning the landslide areas.  Those points we moved after whistle instructions from the workers.  We reached “Mangthi” village around 3 PM itself.  We took tea and snacks in the teashop.  With interest we watched the locals playing volleyball game.  Slowly we were returning to the normal life.

We engaged two jeeps from here.  The second jeep started around 4 30 PM.  We reached Dharchula base camp around 7:30 PM.  We took dinner immediately.  Other yatris including the LO would reach only tomorrow.

DAY 24:     24^th September 2000:     @ Dharchula

No work today.  We went to Kali River and saw the majestic kali river, which we were following from Kala pani.  She was very calm as a child there and was like a roaring lion enroute.  LO and other yatris arrived at 2 pm.  Slowly eye-to-eye contact developed.  We wanted to go to some temples nearby.  Since proper vehicles were not available we could not go.  Evening we went to the market on the Indian side and to market on the Nepal side crossing the kali river.  We took snacks in a small hotel on the Nepal side.  Till now our luggage had not come.  But we got information that it was on the way.  We talked to the officer of the base camp regarding the arrangements made for the yatra groups.  We went to bed after dinner.

DAY 25:     25^th September 2000:     (@ Dharchula)

Today also we stayed at the base camp.  The luggage did not come even today.  I purchased T shirts having the photo of Kailash from KMVN.  Some photos of Kailash Manas were also sold here.  Some of the yatris volunteered to stay back here to collect the luggages and catch us on the way.  We decided to start the next morning.  Evening many of us went to the local market and had snacks sitting on the road.  On some information, I tried some of the hotels to get South Indian food - idly and dosa - which I could not get and came back to the camp to take my regular poori and alu.

DAY 26: 26^th September 2000:  (Dharchula – Kousani)

We started in the morning around 8.30.  Even though we took rest for two days we were still tired. Some of our baggage reached here.  Some of us volunteered to stay back to bring balance luggage.  We were on the way to “Kousani” a beautiful hill station.  We reached there around 7 PM and we could not enjoy the surroundings in the night.  We had to get up early in the morning to see the sunrise and the Himalayan peaks, which would be visible in a broader area.  Kousani is called the “Switzerland of India”.  The climate here was chill and we went round the camp area for some time.  I purchased a sweater here to present it to my father.  We went to bed around 10 PM.

DAY 27:  27^th September 2000: (Kousani – Kathgodam)

I got up early in the morning to see the sunrise. (Which was a rare sight for me even in chennai).  We took vantage points.  There were many tourists also who waited for the sunrise.  The Sun God did not disappoint us.  But we could not see any peaks since almost all peaks came under the clouds.  I came back to the camp taking the photos of beautiful flowers found in plenty everywhere.

We started around 9 AM after the breakfast from Kousani.  We were on our way to Kathgodam.  We took lunch in a KMVN hotel and reached Kathgodam around 7 PM.  We were coming down fast from higher attitudes.  I could not take any dinner.  I vomited profusely.  I went to a local shop and took lime soda.  Psychologically I was feeling better now.  Our yatris who had opted to come with the balance luggage arrived here with the luggage.  What we left in Lipu lek pass we got fully on the penultimate day of our trip.  Since my items were covered in plastic bags they were not wet. (Later I found some cassettes were affected with moisture).  All these bags were there under snow for two days.  We thanked our co yatris who came with the luggage for their service. We could always do lip service but to do real service like this is difficult.  They missed Kousani.  We called family members from the STD booth and returned to the rest house.

DAY 28:    28^th September 2000:      (Kathgodam– New Delhi)

We started around 8 AM. The bus was descending from the hills.  We would reach New Delhi today.  There was sadness in the face of everybody.  From the next day we could not meet others as a team.  This lifetime chance was shared by all of us.  We moved like a family for this one-month with love, fight and other ingredients of family life. On the way we took dinner at the outskirts of Delhi.  A co yatri nicknamed “Yak” was in a tearful mood when somebody sounded like yak.  The whole team promised him that we would not call him like this in future. (False promise!).  We came to Ashok yatri nivas around 8 PM.  Many people were waiting for us.  The Delhi group of yatris presented us a picture of kailash in various views.  I collected my luggage from the bus and occupied my room.

29^th September 2000:

I had reserved for the train, TN express of 30 th September only.  Even after taking many rest days we came here one-day in advance.  One of my co yatris came to me and asked photo prints, since his still camera was not working there.  Since there was time at our disposal I gave for developing and printing all the still camera rolls to take two copies.  Evening I collected the photos.  All of them came nicely.  In all, I had seven videocassettes and seven rolls of still photos.

For dinner we went to Andhra Bhavan to have South Indian meals.  Taste buds were not at all working for me.  Mere look of sambar and rasam re activated my taste buds and energy!  Some of yatris already left, and the balance were still staying here.  We had a get-together in the night after dinner.  We discussed about families and extended invitations to others to come home.

30^th September 2000:

Morning I went to the External Affairs Ministry to get a certificate for attending Kailash Manas yatra.  It would be helpful in getting special casual leave for the Central Govt employees as it is classified as mountaineering expedition by the Indian mountaineering Institute.  I collected my certificate and came to the hotel.  I had a tearful farewell from the available yatris there.  The train left at 9 PM from New Delhi.

1^st October 2000:

I met some railway staff who were returning from Kedarnath yatra.  On seeing me they could not identify me.  I lost around 8kgs and looked really lean.  With my beard, which I had not shaved for nearly three months, I knew it'll be difficult to identity me.  We discussed about the trips.  I was happy to answer their questions.  When I was walking on the vestibule to go to the canteen, to my surprise I met the gentle man who motivated me to go to Kailash.  He ran towards me and hugged.  I was speechless.  This gentle man who came to see me off in the Central station when I started this yatra was returning with me in the same train.  I felt very happy and I discussed with him about the yatra and compared the climate in Dolma and Lipu Lek Pass during his visit and my visit.  Later he came to my compartment and discussed with other yatris who were coming from Kedarnath.

2^nd October 2000:

Back to chennai.  My wife and son felt very happy on seeing me.  Many neighours came to my house in the evening to see the video cassettes.   I talked to my father and mother and brother and I could feel their happiness.  With the grace of God and the blessings of Guru of Kanchi matt, and of my parents, other elders I could complete the Kailash Manas yatra.

As a big team works behind the stage, and an actor gets the attention, many people worked for the successful completion of this holy yatra.  I feel the blessings of my ancestors and the daily prayers of my parents and other elders took me near the God’s abode.

I pray Kailashnath to shower His blessings to all.

OM NAMA SHIVAYA

 

CONCLUSION:

It is more than one year now, after performing holy Kailash yatra.  I came in October 2000 and in December 2000 end I went to Sri Lanka on an official duty for nearly 10 months.  Immediately on arrival from Kailash, I edited the videocassettes running into eight hours to three hours and made cassettes and sent to all yatris as my millennium gift.  I was very happy on receiving their views.  Now many, who could not come due to various reasons, also have seen Kailash and Manas all over India.   They travelled with their loved ones on seeing the video cassette.  Real happiness is to see and feel the happiness of others.

After Kailash yatra my lifestyle has changed completely.  I can feel this even after one year.  God Shiva is kind to me by giving Darshan in many temples. I went to Thirumala - Thirupathi during the Brahmotsavam period and Lord Balaji gave wonderful darshan. I handed over “Brahma theertham”  (manasarovar water) to Balaji.  With family I went to the temples of Nava grahas in Tanjore district.  I had Dharshan of Shiva on Deepam day at “Thiruvannamalai”. 

During my stay in Sri Lanka I went to the famous “Thiru kona malai” temple, one of the ancient temples – one of the three Dakshina Kailasams (which is in the same longitude of Kailash), “Chilav “munneswar shiva temple, “Galle” Shiva temple and many Shiva temples in Colombo apart from the famous”Kadirgamam” Murugan temple.  By the grace of God and help from my higher officials I could see many beautiful Shiva temples of Srilanka.

Back in chennai I had been to Thirupathi, Parvata malai, Thiruvannamalai, Ramewaram and other temples.

By the grace of God, I had been to Kedarnath, Badrinath with my son and my brother recently.  One of my co yatri to Kailash, based in Rishikesh, made all the arrangements.

I got many emails, wishes for New Year and other important days and invitations for marriage of the family members - for the past 2 years.  Now I have many friends all over India.  I went to some of their residence (at Rishikesh and New Delhi) and I was happy to receive some, who came to chennai.

I'm not satisfied even now.  I pray Lord Shiva to show Him in various places.  May be I am day - dreaming to see Shiva and Parvathi on Nandhi as “Rishaparoodar”.

My father after performing yatra to Kedarnath and Badrinath 20 years back wrote about his yatra in Tamil for the benefit of others.  He was pressurising me to write about my trip.  I was postponing purposely writing my feelings, after one year.  I wanted to feel the after effects.  I could re live those happy days again.  It is my father who corrected this book (DEO (retd.) -done his job!) for the English grammatical errors, since for me the flow of words came from my heart and not from the brain.  I thank my uncle also who encouraged me in every stage.

Kailash yatra was a tough one on earlier days and with a lot of help now it is made easy. (Still, we feel it is tough).  Every year, more and more people have to visit Kailash Manas holy area.  They should not be upset if they fail the medical test at New Delhi or Kunji.  The yatri, who failed in the medical test at Gunji, in our batch, in the year 2000, succeeded in getting into the batch of year 2001 at the age of 65.  The determination and Bhakthi of this yatri is amazing.  My happiness of Kailash yatra is complete on hearing this news.  I thanked Lord Shiva for the kindness shown to him.  

Now, many tourists are operating their service from Nepal to visit holy Kailash and Manas. They take yatris by road to Manas and to Tarchen the base camp of Kailash. Yatris have to spend nearly one lakh rupees and the only problem is acclimatisation of weather.  For yatris who could not go in the official trips can try this way after checking their medical parameters.

I thank from my heart, all the people who helped me for this yatra.

Dreams never end.  The Kailash, which is the abode of Shiva parvathi attracts like a magnet whenever you think of it.  I pray Shiva parvathi to grant me the chance of doing the Inner parikrama, Nandhi parikrama and to give “Athma Lingam”.  May be this wish is too much for an ordinary devotee, but I pray for His kindness.

May “ Kailashnath” bless us all.

“ OM NAMA SHIVAYA”.