Holy Kailash Manasarovar yatra (nepal side ) in 2002 - A DREAM COME TRUE part 2 english book

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OM NAMA SHIVAYA

                  PART 2 of book 'A DREAM COME TRUE'

      HOLY  KAILASH  - MANASAROVAR YATRA
              NEPAL  SIDE     JUNE   -   2002


After my first trip to Holy Kailash and Manas, in the year 2000, Kailashpathy occupied my mind fully.  All my thoughts were with Him.  Daily life of attending family, office etc. dragged the mind from fully going to Him.  Like a lighted candle melts over the time due to heat, I could feel melting down my mind.

Like Sun, who spreads its rays in all directions, He has given Dharshan in many temples in various forms over the past two years.  But the urge from the inner mind to go near Him again was un controllable.  Like magnet attracts iron, I could feel Kailashnath pulling my mind towards Him.

When I went to Kailash earlier, I was very much satisfied with the dharshan in all directions of the parikrama. When one of my co yatri asked me about the second trip, I told him that I was satisfied and don’t require further trips.

But we cannot decide when to see Him.  Even to pray at His feet we require His blessings.  All the problems of yatra slowly disappear when He calls.

I heard that year 2002 is very special for Kailash manasarovar yatra as it is considered holy year (year of horse) according to Tibetian calendar which comes once in 60 years. any pilgrimage done this year is equivalent to 12 years they say !

I wanted to go via Nepal this time, since I had gone through the Indian side crossing Lipu lek pass earlier.  That was a wonderful experience. We had to walk and walk to go near kailash, crossing mountains and rivers by foot.  Going via Nepal, I heard, was easy since we could go up to the foot of Kailash (Tarchen base camp) by jeep.  Moreover I have not seen Lord Pasupathinath and that was motivating me to go via Nepal.

I remembered my preparations of first visit.  God tested me in many ways.  He wanted to take butter from my troubled mind of buttermilk.  After total surrender I could escape.  But this time I was careful.  I never left Him. He could not reach me since I was at His feet!.

With family, I visited many Shiva temples (Chidambaram, Sirgazhi, Vaitheeswaran koil, my family deity Kattiappar and Shiva temple at Panditakudi –near koothanallur, Trichy Thayumanavar, Uchi Pillayar, Thiruvannamalai).  I had wonderful trekking earlier at Velliangiri near Coimbatore, which is rightly called South Kailash.

As I am in Government service, the formalities of getting ex- India leave was done well in advance.  Whoever I approached for help, did so whole-heartedly.  I always feel, only these helpful souls from friends, relations lift a person to Kailash from where we do prayers.  I was slowly collecting materials for the yatra.

Somehow, the thought of Holy Nandi Parikrama crept in my mind.  When I visited kailash in the year 2000 we did outer parikrama only.  I could not go near Asthapad (on Southside) and near Kailash on north side from Derapuk camp.  I did not visit Theerthapuri (around 100kms from Tarchen) and Hot water springs also.  I prayed for complete darshan.

The main task was to select a correct agency for the yatra.  I have contacted many agencies in Tamilnadu and Nepal.  Whoever I have contacted backed out at the last minute when I was insisting on Nandhi parikrama.  I have no idea about it and I could not find any reading material about it in books and Internet.  I contacted Ramakrishna yatra service (Anand ji) at chennai and Ecotrek of Kathmandu (Bimal ji) to clarify my doubts.  They also did not promise me but encouraged me if I could do they would also join with me and admitted that they have not tried Nandhi Parikrama so far.  They even allotted 2 days at Tarchen in their programme.  I gave my advance to them.

(Here a word of caution.  Many agencies and swamijis in southern states (even from Delhi) make tall claims about the yatra.  They simply lure the public by telling the magic word of Kailash.  Cost of yatra is around 75,000 Rupees.  They get minimum profit of Rs. 20,000 from a yatri.  They simply put them in the batches from Nepal.  They don’t tell anything about the preparations required for doing this yatra.  One has to see how many medical tests are required to be taken for going in the batches of External Affairs Ministry.  These tests are required to be taken so that there won’t be any problem for the yatri in the High altitude Himalayan ranges.

Who cares in the Nepal route?  Many ladies of southern states who have not put even shoes are enrolled.  With sari how can they cope up?  They give some printed instructions and collect signatures in required forms, on the eve of departure.  Yatris don’t do basic medical tests, any exercise like walking, jogging etc., and come straight for Kailash yatra!  Organisers don’t care about yatri’s age also.  They enroll yatris above 60 at will.  Why should they bother?  They get signatures that in case they return early, it will be at yatris’ cost and they save lot of money.  Unfortunately, there is a tendency in the south to go to pilgrimage after retirement.  In many pilgrim centres I have seen young North Indians and old South Indian yatris.  Young yatris have to accompany aged parents and other relatives for taking care of them and be with them in case of any emergencies and they cannot expect others to take care of their parents in the tough yatras, where every individual will have some problem or other.

Many yatris, I have seen develop high altitude sickness on the FIRST day halt itself.  Nearly 20% of yatris return paying huge money.  Worst, some people DIE enroute.  In May 2002 one of the organisers of the yatra died on the first day.  Many ladies and aged people could not go near kailash since they could not withstand the tough ride for about 1000 kms on bumpy hills and sudden change in high altitudes.  If the batches are around 15 to 20, they can stay in mud buildings (mostly).  But these organisers take 50 to 60 yatris in a batch and arrange to stay in tents on open ground.  Food facilities for arranging 60 yatris in Himalayan ranges are very difficult and many yatris suffer.

It is high time some regulations are imposed for Kailash Manas yatra by Nepal route.  My idea is not to discourage yatris from seeing Kailash.  Many people should visit Kailash –the ultimate pilgrimage for Hindus.  But certain precautions will help for problem free darshan for self and others. 

I got a call from the organiser, to hand over passport immediately, since Chinese authorities are insisting for the same.  Earlier, I heard they were processing for visa with photocopies of passports.  I handed over my passport, 15 days prior to date of departure.   We have to leave from chennai on June 11^th to Bangalore.  All the yatris would assemble there and flight to Katmandu was on the 12^th June.

Slowly the D-day came.  Most of the dress items I had purchased already for my previous yatra.  Medicines, eatables were purchased.  I bought one Threptin biscuit tin also.

I made 6 small covers consisting of Toffees, gems, one roll of threptin, halls tablets, electrobion (small sache), samahan saches for trips to Nandhi hill and Kailash Parikrama.  These packs would be taken in coat packet to be used enroute on trekking days and should be recouped daily. I purchased two small sturdy pet water bottles also for taking water on trekking days.

Since, mostly we wear the same dress for 5 to 6 days minimum pants and t-shirts are sufficient. Extra dresses we can off load at the hotel in Kathmandu and use it on return journey.  As I heard the road travel is tough, I took my waist belt also.

Total weight of luggage should not exceed 20 kgs since we were going by flight.  I had doubt about my luggage since my 3-samsonite bags (black- camera bag consists of video, still cameras, batteries and other accessories, green-winter clothing to be used in cold climate and blue- general bag consists of other dresses, eatables, medicines etc.,) I could not lift easily!

Day 1:  11^th June 2002:  Chennai - Bangalore

I left chennai on the 11^th June for Bangalore.  I have not informed anybody about my programme since there was some confusion initially about visa.  My cousin brother came to the platform to see me off.  When the train started I prayed Ganesh and Kailashpathy to make the yatra success.  The train arrived at Bangalore around 14 00 hrs.  I went straight to the Hotel where we were asked to assemble.  Many of the yatris were already there.  There were totally 14 yatris –from different parts of Tamilnadu.  I went to all the rooms and met co yatris.  Age of yatris varied from 39 to 74.  Three of them had visited Kailash in 2001.  They could not complete parikrama at that time.  We discussed about the climate at Kailash and manas at the time of my visit (sep 2000) and their visit (June 2001), knowing fully well that climate at Kailash change every moment!

Some of us joined together and went for shopping.  Some yatris were not having shoes!  We could not get Bata “hunter’ shoes which was best for the yatra.  In my earlier trip I have seen costly adidas shoes broken up, while hunter shoe (rs.150/-) managed successfully.  These shoes were available in Kathmandu and now even in higher altitudes since many locals also use this kind of shoe.  We bought leather Glouse, eatables, medicines. (Which is a continuous process!).

I cleaned the lenses of video and still cameras, loaded them and prayed God to make it success, since many who could not come due to various reasons to Kailash also can see the yatra and travel with their beloved ones and have darshan of Kailashpathy through video and photos.

I had discussion with the organiser, who was staying with me in the same room, up to mid night and slept with the thoughts of yatra.

Day 2:  12^th June 2002:  Bangalore-Kathmandu

The sound of phone ring woke me.  One of the yatris (from chennai) called me from station.  I told him about the location of the Hotel.  Meanwhile we got ready.  Our flight was at 10 30 am. (Royal Nepal airlines).  We finished our breakfast on the way to airport.  A friend of co yatri at Bangalore helped us in many ways.  All of us were fresh.  I thought of my earlier yatra.  The photo taken at the beginning and the end of the yatra shown altogether a different picture. We could not identify ourselves!

For many of us, this was the first experience in flight.  Even though I had flown earlier few times, this is my longest trip (2hrs 30 min).  Some of us were not proficient in English. I filled up emb.forms for them.  In the customs I informed about my video and still camera and entered details in the form given and got their seal.  This should be shown while returning.  Otherwise we may end up in paying duty. There was some problem with the security since they objected taking batteries in the hand baggage.  Any amount of my convincing them was of no use.  I put all the batteries in one small handbag and the organiser rushed back to book it with the luggage.  With great difficulty he pushed it as a separate pack in luggage since time was running out.  There was one more yatri who arrived at this point.  He got his passport a day earlier at Tiruchy.  He could not apply for visa.  He wanted to try a chance for China visa at Kathmandu.  Since his brother was travelling with us he wanted to join us. 

I was restless in flight.  I was worried about my batteries.  If they did not load the small bag I could not take video.  Info lithium batteries were costly and to get my collection of batteries I had to spend huge amount in Nepal and it should be available there.  The food given in the flight was good and I diverted my attention in reading newspapers and books.

We arrived at Kathmandu International Airport at 1300 hrs (IST).  There is a difference of about 15 minutes between Indian and Nepal time.  During the yatra I kept only the Indian time and calculated local time by adding the difference.  After necessary formalities I rushed to the conveyor belt, to take the luggage.  My small bag (batteries) came majestically as first baggage!  I checked the contents and all the materials were safe.  I collected my other baggage also and came outside with other yatris.

A big team of organisers (Eco trek–Katmandu) was waiting with garlands.  They welcomed all Kailash yatris and garlanded them.  At the outer point, airlines people welcomed us to Nepal with juice packs.  They collected my boarding card, scratched it and gave me a prize!  A nice bag – out of 15 yatris, two got prizes. (Some contest was on).  I thought it was a good sign to begin with.

Mr. Bimal, who is one of the partners of Eco trek, was there and was very happy to see me. (I had contacted him earlier many times through e-mail).  He said he would also join us in the trip. (This was his 5^th visit to Kailash).  We boarded a bus waiting outside.  His staff helped us in putting our luggage in the bus.  On the way (near airport), we could see Lord Pasupathinath temple complex.  We greeted with chants of Om namasivaya.  After an hour’s ride (on the way we saw King’s palace also) we arrived at Hotel “Manaslu” a 3 star hotel.

In the comfortable hotel room we packed and repacked things.  Used dresses could be washed here, since one more day we are going to stay in Kathmandu.  A bag of clothes not required for the yatra could be kept at the hotel strong room itself. We need not carry it unnecessarily.

In the evening, we had a walk in nearby streets, and made window-shopping. Good bargaining was a must and we must be careful about the rate offered is IC (Indian currency) or NC (Nepali currency).  100 IC is equivalent to 160 NC.  Indian rupee is accepted in many places.  But 500, 1000 denomination were banned. Many ISD centres were available and most of us called our homes.  Internet facilities were also available at many places.

Dinner was good and they tried to please us by adding south Indian variety, which was liked by everybody.  With others we watched world cup football matches (initial matches) in the common hall up to late night.

Day 3: 13^th June 2002:  Kathmandu

We woke up a bit late today (7am) and after morning rituals came down for breakfast at 8 30 am.  We were told about our programme. We boarded the mini bus.  Our first visit was to Holy Pasupathinath temple.  This was my first visit to holy Pasupathinath and was eagerly waiting for His darshan.  Since materials made of leather were not allowed inside the temple, we kept leather belts, purse etc.,in the bus itself.  We rushed to the mandir.  It was a huge complex. Holy Nandhi bull was very big and majestic.  There was rush in front of the mandir and I waited for the crowd to go.  But a steady flow of pilgrims was there.  Then I also joined the crowd and had wonderful darshan of Pasupathinath.  I prayed for success of the Kailash yatra.  All the side entries were closed. I recited slokas and songs praising Shiva parvathi and made circumambulation three times.  At the end of third round there was no body in front of Him and I could pray alone for some time.

I went to many small mandirs in the temple complex.  At one point a family was seen reciting songs and at the other end a nice dance was going on to the tunes of shiva songs.  The whole atmosphere was divine and I sat at one area and silently enjoyed it.  I came down several steps to reach river Bagmathi, and tasted the holy water.  The water after ‘abishekam’ of Pasupathinath joins the river and from that point I sprinkled the holy water over my head and body.

Nobody wanted to move out.  I offered “Dakshina” (!) to the head priest.  He gave a Rudraksha Mala as prasadam.  Somebody got some eatables (prasadam!) and we took it after monkeys (available in plenty) took their share!.

We came out of the temple and entered shops selling Rudraksha malas, Spadiga linga icons etc., it was not so cheap as I thought and good bargain was required.  They sold some items cheap and got huge profit in some.  A tourist should be very careful and unless he was sure about the correct price he should not purchase.  I bought a rudraksha mala (for my friend) for rs.300 (IC), which had 108 rudrakshams.  I purchased one spadika lingam and one icon having lingam and meru also for rs.700.

Since, photography was not permitted inside the temple, I could take only front view of the temple and the market.  We boarded the bus and started for the next destination.

Our next programme was “Dakshin Kali” temple.  It was a two hours ride.  We came to mandir at about 12 00 hrs.  Small girls were selling flowers and coconuts.  I purchased a plate.  Dakshina Kali is very powerful deity.  Many Nepalese come here for pooja and offer animals., when we visited the mandir many devotees offered goat, hen and there was a stream of blood of animals going at the side of temple, in front of some deities.  Two rivers merge here and at the sangam, I sprinkled some water on the head.  I visited mandir and prayed the Goddess.  The priest asked me to break the coconut near the front entrance.

Offering of animals to goddess was personal belief and we should not comment.  We accept the tradition of “Thalal” isn’t it? When we accept and don’t comment for self-eating after offering it to God, why we comment if it is offered to God in our way?   We Hindus should respect our culture.  Only at a few places this practice continues now.  Anyway, pilgrims with weak mind should not see it, as it would affect them mentally.

“Mata” temple was 550 feet above this temple.  This small Hill had steps.  This was our first climbing of hill and with interest I watched how others climb.  To my surprise the oldest person came first!  On the top of the hill, the Mata mandir was very lonely.  Inside the temple, we prayed Mata and Shiva.  We the South Indians used to worship idols decorated nicely and the form of worship in the North is different.  Anyway, the bhakthi is much more powerful in whatever form we worship.  Surroundings of mandir were excellent.  We took group photos and climbed down the hill and boarded the bus.

Our next halt was at “Sesh Narayan mandir”.  This Narayan mandir is 45 minutes drive from Dakshin kali temple and was in picturesque setting.  Nepal is Hindu kingdom.  Here we have many Shiva and Narayan mandirs.  But many Narayan mandirs have some connection with Buddha religion.  Here also there was a cave “Rimpoche cave” where guru Rimpoche meditated in it.  Even the hill was considered holy.  We prayed in all the places and Anjaneya idols opposite to Narayan temple.  We came down to see a pillar on tortoise sculpture and boarded the bus.

On the way, we went to a Ganesh mandir, on the banks of river Bagmathi and we prayed for our yatra.  There is a stone here behind the mandir in the complex.  If we stretch our back on the stone, they say our body ache would go.  I also stretched my back on it.  

We came to our hotel for Lunch at 14 00 hrs.  After lunch we started again for “Budhaneelkantha” temple.  A majestic Narayan idol was there on snake bed, in a big pool of water resembling Maha Vishnu on Adhisesha in milk ocean (paar kadal) as our puranas say!  But the locals say it was Buddha and a budh sculpture was also there on the head (now covered by cloths and flowers).  We the followers of Saivam (followers of Shiva) does not differentiate between Gods.  In Tamil there is a saying “ Egan – anegan” – which means He is one and He is all.  Those who keep it mind see Shiva in all the forms of Gods.

Outside the mandir, there was a Rudraksham tree.  At that time there was no rudrakshams in it.  There was an idol resembling Vishnu on Garuda.  This photo is there in the 10 Rs note of Nepal.  We came out of the mandir discussing why this name Budhaneelkantha for the mandir.  Whether this is Narayana or Buddha or Neel kanta?  Of late many temples are considered as revenue earners and tourist attractions and the revenue would increase if all kind of devotees come. Isn’t it?

We stopped at main market and got down.  Some of us walked in the market for two hours and purchased “Diamox” medicine, which was very important for the yatra to minimise acclimitation problems.  Some of us purchased monkey caps and gloves.  We returned to our hotel (which was in the next street) in a taxi paying Rs.100 (NC), since we did not know the route!

At 8 30 pm we assembled for dinner.  There was some briefing about the yatra. Overcoats and sleeping bags were given for hire (Rs. 500 IC each).  I bought one sleeping bag since this was must if we stayed in tents.  Eco trek gave us a big bag also.  They advised us to transfer our items in that bag so that it could be put in lorry, which will follow our vans.  After dinner, we started re packing.  (It is better to have two bags. One to be loaded in our jeep and the second in lorry.  We can recoup things every night).  Since I had camera bag also I had three bags.  We were told that we have to start at 6 am the next day for our yatra.  After re- packing we slept after midnight.

Day 4:  14^th June 2002:  Katmandu – Nyalam(3800m) – 155 kms/8hrs

We got up early.  I had a nice warm water bath in the bathtub.  I knew my next bath will be only in Holy Manasarover (after 5 days – God wills!).  We came down to the reception at 6 30 am, with our luggage.  Helpers loaded our luggage in the rear seats of our bus.  When we finished our breakfast  (it is better to start Diamox tablet – one in morning and half in night – according to the advice given by doctor from Nepal onwards), we had some briefing of programmes and came out of the hotel. The yatri, who came late at Bangalore could not get visa and stayed back.  There were group photos with our organisers and Nepali helpers who came with us.

The bus started with cries of “Om Namasivaya”.  I prayed Ganesh and Nandhi for darshan at Kailash.  The beautiful Nepal outskirts skipped fast behind and the river Bagmathi played hide and seek with us.  The bus started to climb the roads of small hills.  We were slowly going to higher altitudes.  After a few hours ride we stopped in a small village - Khadichar.   A river with full force was flowing in a valley.  A steel bridge connected both sides.  On the other side of the mountain there was a big waterfalls.  Water from the top hit the mountain in many places before reaching the river, giving a glorious sight and sound.  In the village we took some cool drinks and in the market I purchased a jerkin –without sleeves for Rs.150 IC- for my son.

The bus journey continued up to 13 00 hrs.  There were many waterfalls enroute in different picturesque settings.  We arrived at the border town- Kodari.  We went to a hotel for lunch.  It was not that good and I thought we would have different experiences from here.  We filled in dis.forms to be handed over to Nepal border authorities for customs and emigration formalities.  (The border town of china side “Jhangmu” was like hanging town on a hill on the opposite side).  Here was “Friendship bridge” which connected Nepal and Tibet (china).  Our bus stopped 200 m before the village and we walked with our luggage to cross the border.  (Later I found we had to walk with our luggage for 100 m in china also).  Small boys of Nepal and china offer help in taking the luggage for a small fee (say NC rs.50).  We walked over the bridge and waited for the team to arrive at the counter.  Since we had group visa, we were asked to stand according to the serial number in the visa list and hereafter that would be our number.  They checked up visa, passport, and baggage and allowed foreigners in.  We entered china and came to the main gate where our guide was waiting for us, with the Toyota Land Cruisers.  The area was slushy.  There were many shops, which sold dresses and electronic items.

We boarded the land cruiser with our hand luggage.  Other luggages were transported separately and taken to a lorry.  Hereafter we had to literally live in this vehicle for most part of the day for another 10 days.  My driver was young and charming person.  Normally 4 yatris would be allotted in one vehicle. (Front one and rear row three).  If it was more than four in a vehicle, there would be discomfort in the entire yatra.  (All yatris should ensure this before paying advance). There were seats in the rear (perpendicular to the vehicle) where some of the helpers or cooks would sit and in the balance portion hand luggages would be kept.  One of the helpers lifted my bag with one handle and it gave way.  I felt bad.  (May be God gave me another bag as prize in Katmandu?).  The helper apologised profusely and told me he would take care of the bag till return.  (It is better to put bags in white polythene bags and tie it up so that they withstand the rough handling of the yatra. - I had polythene bags but did not use them until now).

Out of 4 vehicles ours was number 1, and after a short ride we waited for other vehicles to arrive.  We continued our journey on the hilly terrain of Tibet.  The vehicles, crossed hairpin bends with ease and considering the gradient in most places, it sailed smoothly. (These vehicles are made in Japan – 3500 cc engines).  We arrived at a small town “Jhangmu” a border town to complete immigration formalities.  Again we were asked to form a queue, and report to immigration officer.  The Chinese officer took my passport and checked it by inserting in a machine to ascertain its genuiness checked all the pages again and again.  He looked at the photo of my passport and then at my face.  He did it several times.  Whenever he looked at me I smiled.  May be he could not fix my face with the photo of passport since I had beard on my face (I had 45 days viradam) or since I took the photo at the age of 32 and my passport is 8 years old now!  I told him I came to china in the year 2000 through Lipu Lek pass.  But there was only Indian side entry and no Chinese entry. (They don’t put any seal in Indian passport in that route).  He could not understand English and he allowed me after the Chinese guide came to my rescue and talked to him in Chinese language.

We were asked to wait in a shed.  Our vehicles were allowed after check.  After the formalities were over we entered the town.  There were many Chinese ladies and girls selling Chinese currency yuwan (1 yuwan is equivalent to 6.25 Indian rupees. It is better to deal with approved agencies and that too collectively, to get better bargain).

I changed equivalent amount of Rs. 5000/- (i.e. 800 yuwans).

We would be required to pay minimum 60 yuwans /day for porter, yak, yak man for 3 days – i.e. 540 yuwans.

If an individual wanted porter for Asthapath he had to pay 60 yuwans.  Total of minimum 600 yuwans.  It might go up to 700 yuwans according to demand.  We might be requiring yuwans for other purchases, Coke (water is costly), telephone charges etc.,

We continued our journey.  After few hours ride we came to “Nyalam” a town at an altitude of 3800m.  The organisers checked several hotels and got us accommodation in a hotel.  After coming out of the vehicle we felt the difference in climate.  In the hotel, rooms were twin sharing and comfortable for night stay.  There was a toilet also!

We put on the winter clothing.  Over my T-shirt, I put thermal wear, sweater and jerkin. I put thermal wear pant and jeans pant.  I put woolen glouse for hands and monkey cap to cover head.  Hereafter this would be our dress code.  (We might feel sultry on hot days in the vehicle but when we step out the chill air outside will make us shiver!).

We had the first causality of acclimitisation here.  One of the yatris fainted with his eyes going up - over the dining table.  The Chinese shop people and organisers and one of our yatri – a doctor gave first aid immediately.  There were sounds of vomiting outside the hotel by another yatri. Out of 14 yatris, 4 were affected.  We heard in another batch at the same time 2 yatris were serious and returning (possibly dead).  One of the organisers of the yatra died here a month back.  My heart felt very bad for the fate of the yatris affected.

There was a telephone exchange operated by Chinese telecom at Nyalam.  We went there and had talk with home.  The cost was 8 yuwans/minute.  Generally we may get connection after 30 seconds only and this also will be accounted.  If we exceeded even by a second full charge for the second minute also would be charged.  Yatris had to speak looking the time meter of the phone.

I met some lady yatris from Hyderabad.  They came in a batch of 60.  When they came to know that this was my second visit to Kailash, they asked me about yak ride.  I told that it was a must to engage yak that too for ladies who have not practiced walking.  It is tough to go on the yak but tougher if you walk, I told her.

There was a market, a cinema hall on the main road itself.  Tibetians were dancing in a circle opposite to dance hall and it was a treat to watch.  We returned to the room after a brief walk. 

We were going to stay here for one more day for better acclimatisation.

Day 5:  15^th June 2002:  at Nyalam (12500 feet)

To day was rest day.  But there was no use of staying in hotel room.  This rest day was given for better acclimitisation.  Our organisers arranged a mountain climbing.  After breakfast, we started for it and walked on the streets of Nyalam as if we were going for Everest expedition!  We started to climb the hill.  Everybody wanted to prove that he could climb effortlessly.  There was no fixed path to go to the top of the hill, but we managed to climb over rocks and ridges.   Water was flowing gently in many places, which made the ground slippery.  When we reached the top of the hill after an hours trek, chill air was blowing.  Out of 14 yatris only 7 yatris made it and all the others returned mid way.  2 of our organisers also reached the top.  We took group photos and excellent view of Nyalam town surrounded by big hills and started descending.  It was easy in many places and we could come down in 45 minutes.  We came for lunch on time!

There were instructions not to go on the other side of the town where military people were staying.  So in the afternoon we went to shops and in the night to telephone office to pass time.  When we came there was a request for Bhajan, and all the yatris came and assembled near the counter and started Bhajan.  Two lady yatris accompanying us sang nice songs and many yatris sang several songs praising Shiva Parvathy.  Prasadam was given for all the on lookers also.  At this time one more yatra batch having 50 yatris came from Tamilnadu and some of them got prasadams from us.  Dinner was served at 8 pm (IST) i.e. 1030pm Chinese time and we slept immediately.

Day 6: 16^th June 2002:  Nyalam – lake paigu tao – La bungla pass – Saga (4640m ) - 336 kms / 10 hrs

Servers woke us in the morning at 5 30 am and served bed tea/coffee/bournvita.  Our daily rituals of brushing before any intake we could not follow here.  After bed tea immediately break fast came (upma/ poori/ cornflakes/ oats kanji etc.,).  We had to cooperate with them and finish it so that we could start before 7 am. (We can complete our morning duties in the toilets -if available or in open space enroute near water facility -like river).  We had to take plenty of liquid in this yatra.  I loaded water bottles in the coach.

We started at 7 am.  When we came out of the rooms we could see our first sight of snow peaks around us in the hills.  The ride was interesting initially but monotonous after some time.  There was no road but the drivers drove the vehicle on surface driven earlier by vehicles.  There was dust whenever a vehicle passed and it was a must to close our car windows.  Otherwise dust and chill air would enter the vehicle.  There was a cassette player in the vehicle and a good Nepali song cassette was played.  After some time, I requested the driver (suseelamma in Chinese) to put cassettes, which I brought.  He obliged and we enjoyed nice Tamil and Sanskrit songs praising Shiva.  Whenever the cassette ended he would put Chinese songs also and we enjoyed it.  Most of Nepali songs were like Tamil film songs and their folk songs were excellent.  I took all cassettes (around 10) from my main bag and kept in the hand bag for listening in the long journey.

Around 1 pm we crossed a check post.  They verified visa and passports and allowed the vehicles.  Near a beautiful lake – “Paige Tao” we took lunch.  There was some rest time and I took my cameras and went up on a small hill.  Snow covered hills and blue lake was a treat to watch. One of the hills resembled Ganesh with nature drawing picture resembling Ganesh with snow and behind it as far as my camera captured it was snow everywhere.  I got a call from my team to come down.  On seeing me some yatris also came to the top of the hill and they also returned with me.

The vehicle was going up and down on the hills.  Journey was tough.  Most of the time we could not sit straight.  Either we would hit side window or on the person sitting next.  Some times on the roof too! Music of oh! Ah! etc., can be heard in any vehicle over the sound of songs.  For the fear of hitting glass I did not shoot much video on moving car.  For a change I sat in the front seat next to driver and on one occasion after crossing a stream, I got a hit on fore head on the front glass and I coolly shifted my seat to rear row.

We crossed “La bung la” pass after some time.  I could not find any snow on this pass and adjacent peaks.  There were many colour cloths tied as prayer flags and we stopped our vehicle and prayed there.  The valley here was awe-inspiring.  It was nature’s drawing with light and shades and I enjoyed it for some time.  The journey down the pass was terrific.  The driver never saw the ups and downs.  He simply pressed the accelerator and controlled the car with steering.  Like in films, the vehicle skipped the broken path and got down on the slopes and stopped only at a point where the wheels got trapped in mud near a stream.  After some effort it came out and the vehicle passed the stream effortlessly.  We waited for the lorry to arrive.  There was complete unity among drivers.  If they could see any potential problem they would wait for others.  My driver was right.  The lorry carrying our materials, food and some staff was trapped in the slush.  All the drivers helped the lorry driver to come out of the mess.

We met some Europeans (Yugoslavia) on the way.  Their vehicles were stranded in one area.  While the drivers were engaged, we talked to the tourists.  One of them was coming for the second time like me and when it was known, he came near me.  When I enquired about his first trip he said it was fantastic (in the year 1998) and when enquired about Kailash he told me - hey – “non-believers believe” – with twinkle in his eyes.  Kailash as we normally think was not only for us Hindus.  Tibetians, Buddhists, Christian’s come in large numbers.  When I asked one of my friends why Christians come here, he told me that there is a belief that Jesus Christ lived in this area during his “un known years” and he had his education in Boudist monasteries.

We had our first sight of river Brahmaputra.  We traveled on the banks of river Brahmaputra.  Time was around 16 30 hrs and the drivers were rushing.  My co yatri told me that we must cross the river before 18 00 hrs otherwise it would not be possible that day as the boat timings would close.   We could see “saga” town from distance and our coaches went straight to the boat.  This quaint launches were big and could hold a lorry and two land cruisers comfortably.  This launcher was tied on a steel rope, which was fixed on either side of the banks.  With pulleys the launcher was moved to the other side.  There was place for passengers to sit and crossing river Brahmaputra was an experience by itself.  It took more than two hours for ferrying all our vehicles.  We rushed to Saga and stayed in a comfortable rest house.  It had a big school (not for the local Tibetans but for the children of Chinese soldiers), a cinema hall and clubs (for Tibetans), lot of shops, concrete roads and telephone office (which was locked).  By paying extra money (16 yuwans/min) we talked to our homes from a shop and came to the rest house.  Tibetian children were asking for money and I gave some toffees which they accepted and said thanks.  My heart felt bad for the condition of Tibetians in Tibet.

I could not take any food today. I vomited a bit.  I took some threptin biscuits and took one diamox tablet with coke and slept.  In the night the cook woke me up and gave me bournvita, which was very nice.

Day 7:  17^th June 2002:  Saga – Paryang (4540m) – 185 kms / 7hrs

We woke up as usual to the loving call of  “Om Namasivaya” from the servers and cooks who came with tea/coffee/bournvita.  As I vomited after taking coffee yesterday I wanted to change to Bournvita.  Immediately oats kanji also came which was good for health (but not good on tongue!).

We left Saga around 7 am.  I heard that there was a lot of improvement in Saga compared to the previous year.  The roads became concrete with pucca drains and many new buildings had come.(may be due to increase in number of Chinese army personnel).

Our vehicles were moving in kutcha roads, and I was sure these roads would be improved in the coming years.  Already work was on in several stretches by providing drains etc., I could see some road rollers also.  May be they were doing Bridge works as first priority.  In many areas pucca concrete bridges were constructed over big rivers/streams.  May be in few years there will be pucca roads also. 

Our vehicles crossed many streams with water splashing on sides.  It was interesting to watch vehicles cross-streams of crystal clear water and bump to the shores.  Since, road making was in progress, a lot of dust came out when our vehicles went past the road.  The vans went up and came down to go up again on the wave of hills.  There was no vegetation and even then it was interesting to watch the fantastic shade and light on the hills.

We went up in a pass.  There were fresh colour clothings as prayer flags and heaps of stones (small pebbles arranged one over other as heap) as prayer on the peak.  It was a glorious sight in the valley.  We waited for the lorry to arrive.  When we came out of van there was cool breeze blowing with force and after some time we went back to the vehicle and lifted the window glass.

We came to a small village “Tong pa” for our lunch.  (The cooks prepare food in the morning itself and pack it in hot packs and serve during lunchtime).  They carry plenty of juice pack (mango –fruity juice) and offered during lunch.  In fact the organisers purchased plenty of coke and supplied each vehicle daily!  We finished our food while the drivers took their food in a hotel.  There was a boudist monastery on a small hill nearby which was one of the oldest in Tibet.  We stopped our vehicle at the entrance for some time and prayed.

On the way, we could see a family of Deer, and we stopped our vehicle to take photos.  (In my earlier trip I could not see any animal in Tibet except yak and a flash of deer family at manas).  A rat also lifted his head from a borough and saw me!  When I lifted my camera he went down and surfaced again in a different area. (I don’t know whether he was the same fellow!).  Since I did not want to antogonise my driver I left him and continued our journey.

The road again was very rough, but the scenes outside had different colours.  There were sand dunes in half white colour, hills made of red earth, clear waters of a river in blue colour and from a distance snow cladded Mountains in white colour gave a wonderful look.

We arrived “Paryang” town around 17 30 hours and went straight to room to select bed.  By this time we experienced that the bed opposite to window was not good since cool breeze entered through the holes and missing glasses!  (By this time groups would be formed within groups, likes and dislikes will be formed, opinions developed over others and to have loose talk to pass time we select a group that suits us and try to be in a single room).

Tashin Hotel was good, with toilets constructed for men and women over a yak shed.  After tea we went around Paryang.  Some 40 houses were there with shops selling dresses, sweets, coke, shoes etc., some in our batch purchased monkey caps in that shop.  Outside, a small girl was learning cycle.  Her mother while doing stitching helped her whenever she fell down.  After some time, the small girl was seen riding her small cycle with her friends comfortably.

There were heaps of horns of yaks (yaks would have been swallowed!) near a temple.  Stone with OM Mani Padme Hum inscribed in Tibetian language were seen.  There were rollers with the same mantra and Tibetians rolled it. 

Snow clad mountains could be seen all-round and it was a treat to watch.  Since it was far off, it was not chilling cold, but manageable.

Dinner was good (with rice, rasam and vegetable).  Infact the cooks tried for curd also and it was not that bad.  We slept around 2100 hours.  

Day 8 :  18^th June 2002  (Paryang – Hore- Manasarover- 4700m) 290 kms/ 7 hrs:

We got up to day at 5 30 am.  I knew today was important.  God wills, we could see holy Kailash and manasarover today.  We started at 7 30 am, since one of the drivers was doing some maintenance work in the vehicle and all the drivers assisted him.

The vehicles followed the path of other vehicles in the dry land.  There were violent ups and downs in the path and the vehicles ran without stop.  It crossed water streams with clear water (depth of about 2 feet in ends and 3 to 4 feet in middle) with ease.  We could see continuous snow peaked mountains on side.

We reached Mayum La (5200m above MSL), a wonderful pass on the way.  Like other places there were fresh colour prayer flags tied on ropes.  There was heavy wind and we could not stay out for a long time.  There were snow deposits here and there.  Some how I had interest in snow-covered areas since in the southern part of India, we don’t have any.  We could see snow peaked mountains all along our journey further.  There was a big lake and for more than one hour we travelled along the banks of the lake.  Our Nepali cook, who was coming in our vehicle, said, we are approaching Kailash and in an hour’s ride we could reach.  There were many small streams to negotiate and we looked eagerly for the first glimpse of holy Kailash.

I could spot holy Gurla Mandada range.  The shape of Gurla Mandada was familiar to me since I stayed in manasarover shores for more than 2 days in my earlier visit.  There was a belief that Ganesh and subramaniya born in the Gurla mandada ranges and Buddhists also worship this holy mountain.  Holy manasarover was between Mandada and Kailash and I know we are approaching our destination.

I was looking eagerly through the window.  God! I got Dharshan of holy Kailash!  I shouted ‘om namasivaya’ and shown Kailash to others also.  All the other 3 jeeps were standing at this place and our vehicle also stopped.  I got down from the vehicle and did namaskaar to Holy Kailash.  Here also many colour cloths were seen flying in the air as prayer flags.  I sat there to have darshan of kailash.  My eyes were filled with tears and I tried to hide my emotions.  What I did in my life to get this darshan!.  That too for a second time!  Am I  to tell thanks for this darshan to God?  I felt like an ant before elephant.  I stood before the majestic holy Kailash, the abode of Shiva Parvathi and prayed again and again.  Holy manasarover was there like a blue paint stroke, under the white Mandada.  Taking my cameras, I just marched towards it.  I recited Shiva slokas known to me.  On seeing me, some other yatris also followed.  After half an hours trekking, I could see holy manasarovar and Kailash together.  There were little clouds on Kailash but the darshan was excellent.  Slowly other yatris also came near me.  One of the yatris showed me a deer family nearby.  We took moorthams (small colour stones) as prasadams.

It was not the way to “Hore”, and some of the vehicles went in some other route.  One van came near us to pick us up and the driver went down the hill in 60-degree slope, to reach the plains! (Om namasivaya sound was big at this point!).

We reached Hore, and entered a hotel where many liked the welcome tea given.  I thought water level of Manas was less compared to my previous visit. (May be I was wrong). To reach manas from the camp we have to walk a bit.  Holy Kailash was there majestically and we went out to see Him often.

With happiness we completed our dinner.  I wanted to see Manas at “Brahma muhurtham” time (between 4 and 5 30 in the morning).  (I wanted to see Devas who come to bath at this time!) – Manas at this time was fantastic as once I experienced during my last visit.  Instead of putting alarm by adding 2 hrs 30 min, for the Chinese time 4 30 am, I subtracted and put the alarm at 2 am- got up and went outside. 

Day 9: 19^th June 2002  (Holy Manasarover –14950 feet /4558 m)

The full moon day was hardly 3 days away and the moon was very bright.  I could not count the stars.  The sky was full of stars and I could find it in the stagnated water of manas near the camp also.  Stars were very bright.  I went up and down the street.  At the end of the road, a Chinese army officer stopped me and asked some thing in Chinese.  I answered him that I wanted to take video of Kailash during sunrise.  He told me 5 30, and with his sound, I could understand and came back and entered my room.  I could not sleep further and once in half an hour I went outside and saw the area.  I could not find Kailash.  At 5 am slowly sunlight was seen behind hills.  Some other yatris also woke up and we waited for the sunrise. “ Kailai malayane potri potri ” (hail Kailashpathy) a song composed by famous Tamil saint “Thirunavukkarasar “was sung by everybody.  At 5 15 am there was a colour change in the peak of Mandada hills.  The white colour changed Gold.  Slowly gurla Mandada changed its colour to Gold.  At the same time, the eastern side of Kailash changed its colour to Gold and what a glorious sight to watch.  We prayed for “ponnar menian” (God with Golden colour) darshan in the North side also.  We recorded the events in cameras.

We took our breakfast around 8 am.  We started for Mansarover parikrama by jeeps.  Prior to the year 2000, manas parikrama was done by foot or by horse.  In the year 2000, we did by bus.  May be we were 2^nd or 3^rd batch who did parikrama by bus.  It had its advantages.  We could complete parikrama in a day and enjoy manas sitting in a place for 2 days.  I read earlier travel on horseback was very monotonous.  Enjoying it by foot was always good and I thought we could save our energy for kailash parikrama!

Manasarover.  A dream place.  When I visited last time, I enjoyed every bit of it.  You get different scenes, different colours every time you see it.  Looking Kailash from Manas will be like looking mother and father together (Ammaiappar). The fantastic views we would never forget in life.

Our vehicles crossed water streams joining Manas with ease.  At one point we got down to see white swans.  Suddenly there was a shout to see golden swans.  A pair of golden swans was swimming nearby.  After some distance we could spot many golden swans swimming.  In that we saw one family with many small (very small) swans swimming at a distance.  During my earlier visit I could not spot golden swans.

Whenever we stopped our vehicle, we collected moorthams (small stones) available on the shores of manas.  Every moortham is considered a Shiv lingam.  I felt bad for walking over it by wearing shoes!  We searched colour stones of different shapes and sizes and put them in packet of jerkin.

We came to a buddist monastery.  One of our yatris, who was planting Bilva tree saplings (maha bilvam – which has 9 leaves) in many shiva temples in south, brought some Bilva tree saplings to be planted in Kailash region.  We had our own doubt about the survival due to extreme climatic conditions of kailash and manas region.  But with bhakthi and prayers we planted one, on the shores of manas where new plants were seen (planted earlier by boudist monestary).

I took my video camera and went some distance to record the sound of the waves of manas.  When I zoomed my video camera and looked at Kailash, I was shocked.  It looked like a person sitting.  Nose, eyes and smiling mouth were clearly visible.  I could not control my joy of seeing Shiva blessing us!  I called others to watch it but some of them had seen it already and showing others.  I looked through my camera again and again and with delight I recorded the smiling shiva.   We were delighted on this fantastic darshan of Kailash.  This view was there for almost on our entire parikrama.  I did not get this darshan on my earlier visit.  We thanked God for this memorable darshan.

Our vans stopped at many places, to enable us to take photos and to collect moorthams.  We arrived “Chugh monastery”.  Our drivers also came with us and they did prayers for a long time according to their way.  The moments of my previous visit lingered my mind.  I went to the rear side of the monestary, to locate the heap of Horns of dead yaks (through which I took a photo of kailash and manas last year) and it was still there.  When I looked around I could find a difference.  There was snow even on the sides of small hills around, which was not there on my earlier visit.  New buildings were added to the monestary for the stay of yatris.

We proceeded to Zaidi camp after some time.  Time was around 12 30 and we rushed to the camp to take bath in holy Manasarover when sunshine was there.  We knew, we should not take bath in manas when cold wind blew. (Last year a yatri came with our co yatris and the organiser died here while taking bath).  On my previous visit, I took bath two times happily.  But the instructions and pressure from co yatris spoiled my mind.

We put our luggages in the room. There were no cots but only mattresses.  We took towel and new dresses and rushed to manas.  Under our watchful eyes the yatris above 50 slowly went inside and immersed their head three times and quickly returned.   Immediately we asked them to wipe out wetness and they put full winter dresses.  Slowly chill wind started.  I went inside praying God.  The water was chill.  (We were in mid June. Yatris who came in May could not take bath since the whole lake was ice covered).  This area was a bit slushy.  Infact, I told other yatris, that we could take bath after some distance (on the opposite side of Chugh) where I took holy water last year.  But the fear of change of climate prevented us from going there.  If we miss this chance we may not get the chance of taking bath before going to Kailash.  I turned towards Kailash (no view from here) and put my head under water and came out.

I put all my winter dresses.  The wind was blowing with sound.  We rushed to camp.  (It is a must to wear shoes since many broken glass bottles are scattered on the way).

On my earlier visit, we could do pooja and homam on manas shores facing Kailash.  Since chill wind was blowing across manas, we could not sit there.  Instead, we did our pooja and homam inside the monestary.  I put the icons of shiv linga and meru I purchased at Katmandu, and the moorthams I collected at various temples in the pooja and worshipped them with others.

After the pooja, I went out again.  Even though I wanted to go further on the shores of manas, I did not want to take risk.  Further yatra to Kailash was there and any problem at this stage would spoil it I thought.

We planted one Maha Bilva tree sapling (brought by our co yatri) near the kitchen area – inside the compound and watered it with prayers.  We asked the caretaker to take care of it through our guide.  (I request readers to look for it during their visit and put water ).

The caretaker allowed us to take food in her room.  After food we came to our rooms, discussed Hindu – Saivism in Tamil Nadu and slept.

DAY 10:  20^th June 2002:  (zaidi camp – Theerthapuri – Tarchen)

 I woke up to the alarm sound.  I wanted to see the sun rise at Manas.  I had seen it last time when I visited and enjoyed.  Early morning Manas was fantastic.  I waited with my cameras on the shores of Manas.  On the other side, Gurla Mandada hill was complete white and the whole atmosphere was cool and divine.  Slowly we could see sunrays through clouds.  There were clouds all over the place.  Sunrise was not direct from manas or surrounding hill.  But still it had its effect on surroundings.  The white Mandada hill turned Gold for some time.  Its reflection in manas was brilliant.

Praying Shiva Parvathi, I put all the stone moorthams, which I collected from various temples, in the holy Manas.  I put silver Bilva leaves also in the holy water of manas facing the sun rise.

We finished our breakfast hurriedly.  We had to go more than three hours to reach “Theerthapuri”- the place where Shiva killed Basmasura.  Immediately after leaving Zaidi, I could see hot water spring place, where buildings also were seen.  I heard that to take bath one has to pay 50 yuwans and we could not see hot water spring direct.  They took this water through pipes and brought it to bathrooms.  We skipped the place and as usual our vehicles went up and down over hills.  In some places our vehicles stopped.  We could see Manas from a distance.  How to describe its beauty! One has to see it to fully enjoy.  Any amount of description was not sufficient.  The clear blue water with reflections of sky over it, at the background of snow peaked mountains and plain hills on the fore ground mesmerised everybody.

After some time, our vehicles stopped again.  It was an army check post.  Chinese flag was flying high at the backdrop of Kailash.  I did not look at it again.  They checked passports and visa of all and allowed the vehicles to pass.

On the way, we could see some Tibetian villages where we could see naked poverty.  I had read earlier, that this area was rich in cultural and educational wealth once.  Now, only hotels with bars and casinos were there.

Our vans, turned towards the west side of Tarchen.  We had fantastic darshan of the southern face of Kailash.  We requested our driver (suseelamma) several times to stop the vehicle for taking photo and video.  Every few minutes Kailashnath was seen differently.  Kailashnath cooperated fully for the photo session by clearing clouds now and then for full darshan.  The 70km travel took more than three hours.

We reached Theerthapuri around noon.    Our co yatris who came last year told me that on the previous year there was no collection of fee and this year they started collecting entry fee.  We could see hot water springs.  Big bubbles splashed out from a hole.  There were many small springs also.  A person was seen removing the deposits from the way for the water to flow freely.  Water was very hot and the locals allowed it to run on the open ground for some distance and then only touched it for washing hands and legs.

Nearby, some Tibetians were seen climbing a hill.  Almost 30%of the hill was white.  We climbed the hill and saw white earth.  There was a belief that it was the ashes of Basmasura –who was burnt to ash by God Shiva.  Tibetians collected the ash.  I could see pits where top earth taken out, to collect inside ash.  (That reminded me of a hill – Velliangiri (Silver Mountain)- people call it as southern kailash - in Tamil nadu near Coimbatore.  There also on a hill we collected ash like here).

We came inside bundles of colour cloths (prayer flags) and came to a monestary.  On the way I noticed Tibetians bowing their head to a sculpture of yak’s head.  It was an excellent view from here.  River ‘Sutlej’ was seen flowing down  the valley. 

We visited the monestary and prayed God.  The in charge of the temple gave us small colored threads (on paying dakshina on a plate!).

We came down the hill.  I washed my exposed parts of my body (very little) with the hot water.  I put my towel in the hot water and had french bath!

We started to Tarchen.  On the way, on seeing the reactions of us the driver stopped the vehicle at a point where there was no cloud at all over Kailash.  We thanked him profusely.  I heard earlier that the Chinese drivers normally don’t help or listen to yatris – but this team of drivers was really helpful and nice.

We reached Tarchen around 3pm.  There were many tents provided all over the place.  When I came earlier, there were only few tents used mostly by traders. Since we were only 15 we required only 3 rooms.  We got rooms in the main building itself.  We occupied the rooms immediately and had lunch.  After lunch, I came out to have a look of the present day Tarchen.  A small stream of water flowing on my previous visit was not there!  The condition of toilets had improved.  I could see a person washing with motorized pumps.  There was another big building (a hospital?) and big camp for the military personnel.

With the projection of the improvements of the last 2 years, I could imagine Kailash after 10 years.  Tarchen will be a big town bursting with activities for most part of the year.   I fear, religious feelings will come down, since the loneliness of the place will be disturbed by sounds of helicopters and road vehicles.  There was some sorrow in my mind on these thoughts, which will be there on many religious minds.  But Chinese government looked at Kailash differently.  It was promoted as a tourist attraction now.  God save Kailash and Manas!

There was a big improvement.  Chinese telecom has put an exchange with 5 connections.  Many yatris were using them when I visited.  I could talk to my home looking Kailash!  Earlier there was no connection and we could talk only in Taklakot, which was around 100 km away.  My co yatri told me, about the problems he faced while informing the death of a yatri to his home in India. 

Even now, I could overhear frantic calls for help for medical and faster transport from yatris for their co yatris.  Any improvement will have its effect.  Time only will tell about this.  (Earlier I read a book written by swami Tapovananda- “Wanderings in Himalayas”.  He was expressing about these improvements. The experiences he had while visited Kasilash in 1930s cannot be compared now.  Even then we feel our yatra as an achievement!).

I entered the room.  My co yatris were praying.  I joined them.  Our cooks, by this time made their tents opposite to our rooms.  The tomato soup prepared by them was excellent at that moment.  We were going to stay here in Tarchen for the next two days.  We have programmed to go to Nandhi parikrama next day.  Second day was free.

When I was planning for Kailash yatra this time, I was aiming and praying for Nandhi parikrama.  I did not know anything about the Nandhi parikrama – not even the route.  I knew, it was beyond Asthapad and I did not go to Asthapad on my previous visit.  In the evening I enquired about it and asked the organiser to arrange a tibetian porter for my help.  I wanted to start early.  In some maps I saw some caves and if I was late, I wanted to stay there.  I was desperate to do holy Nandhi parikrama.  Up to night no porters were found, and the organiser informed me they would come only in the morning.  I wanted to start before sun rise, so that I could get maximum time and I know I had extra one day –in case I was stranded somewhere.  The organiser told me to follow a river and go on the right side of it to go to Asthapad and further to Nandhi hills.

Day 11:  21^st June 2002:  Tarchen – Asthapad – Nandhi Hills - Tarchen

I woke up early in the morning.  I was tense.  I was desperate and determined to do Nandhi parikrama.  I could not get any porter up to 6 30 am.  Only at 7 15 some porters came and I got a smart person.  But I lost about 2 hours time.  By that time one of my co yatris who came up to Asthapad in the previous year also joined me.  He also wanted a porter, and we waited impatiently for another 30 minutes.  We started informing the organizer to send the porter and started.  On the way, we purchased some coke bottles and tins.

The first hill, near Tarchen, was really tough.  We took rest for some time in the half way.  It took nearly one hour to climb up the hill.   At the top, we waited for the second porter to arrive.  Even after waiting for 10 minutes, nobody turned up.  Asking us to wait, my porter went down to bring another.  We want to start, but we were tired (in one hour!) and waited for porters.

We could see, Tarchen from the top of this hill.  Military men were doing Karate exercises on the left side.  Tarchen was bursting with activities.  There were many tents this time.  Big buildings came up in the past two years. New toilets were being constructed and I hoped further improvements we can anticipate in the coming years.

We met a group of four from Delhi, who were on the way to Nanthi Parvath.  We had a talk with them for some time.

My porter came with a lady (later we came to know that she was his wife) and only at 9 am we could start from top.  We could see some yatris and organiser from our batch down the hill.

I was in bad mood, but I kept my cool.  I wasted more than 3 hours.  What ever I was destined to get, I would get - I thought.

Asthapad means the hill with eight steps or levels.  In the second step there are several fantastic caves where great rishis meditated.  Jains worship this area as their guru Rishabadevaji meditated here.  It was a belief that hundreds of swamijis and rishis are still here as forms of ice lingas.  The Asthapad represents the eight mystical powers of the world from here to run the entire universe.  Boulders of this area were considered roof of Asthapad.

We were walking slowly over the hills.  For some time we could not have Kailash darshan.  We came down the hills and walked on the banks of the river.  There was some water flowing in the river.  There were many pebbles on its bank and we could not walk faster.  At this point, I saw the organizer and some yatris on top of the first hill.  Our speed slowed down on seeing them waving their hands.  We could spot a big stone and took rest, and by that time they also reached us.  We could see the holy Kailash from this point.

Now, we were a big team of eight.  I thought my aim of Nandhi Paikrama would fail.  A big team, mostly, would kill the enthusiasm of an individual. Some member in a team, if he de-motivated others, it would have much impact.  At this point, the team leader opened a box he carried and distributed food for all.  I played my audiocassette – Rudram, chamagam and facing Kailash we took food listening to the divine sounds from the audio.

We started again after some rest.  (There was more resting time than walking time!).  We followed the river mostly and at times we climbed nearby hills on the direction of Kailash.  (It is better to follow the river to reach the base.  But to have photography, we have to climb the hills.  In my opinion on the onward journey we can follow the river and in return journey we can go on hills).  We could see two compas also, on the way and view of holy Kailash from there was fantastic.  Those who stay here were lucky, I thought.  My porter told me the compas were Zhuga and Sini compas.

There was a structure on the path way opposite to the second compa., where colour prayer flags were tied up and heaps of stones were kept as prayers.  After walking for an hour from there, we had wonderful darshan of holy Nandhi Hills.  I made “sasthang namaskaarams” to the holy Nandhi hills and holy Kailash. My speed gone up after seeing holy Nandhi hill.  It was seen so near but practically it was very far.  We took rest at a point, sitting on a rock and enjoyed the surroundings.  After one hour walking from this point, we still could not go near nandhi parvath and there was one more hill to pass.  Some yatris backed out from this point and five of us continued.  Our organiser from Nepal went up on the hill on left side of the river and the organiser from Chennai went up on the right side hill.  We yatris followed the river.  At this point yatris from Delhi, whom we met on the first hill, were returning.  They told me, they could not do Nandhi parikrama since some yatris died on the previous day and they were prevented by Chinese military.  (I came to know that in the Nandhi kora the highest point of trekking is 5859m (ie 19335 feet) and it is known as “Serdung Chuksam La”).

We continued our trekking.  At a point near the base of holy Nandhi on a small hill we stopped.  On the other side of the river there were tents and people from there waved their hands to us.  (I wanted to go a little further in spite of my tiredness but to keep company with others I also stopped).  A dog, which was coming with us for some time, also stopped its journey.

I took out Bilva leaves (which I bought from chennai –packed neatly in plastic cover), stotra book (Sanskrit in Tamil) from my camera bag.  Putting bilva leaves towards Holy Nandhi and Kailash, I recited “ashtothram” of God Dakshina moorthy”.  The way I pronounced may be amateurish, but with Bakthi I recited.  We bowed down, in front of Holy Nandhi hill and Kailash at the foot of nandhi hill.  Suddenly one of the yatris shouted “Garuda”, “ Garuda”.  It took few seconds to locate.  What a fantastic moment.  Garuda the vahana of Maha Vishnu was going around Kailash.  I took my video camera and recorded the event.  I closely followed Garuda, but after some time near the portion where we pray like shivas hair (jada mudi)-it went somewhere. I took video of the area and of Holy Kailash from bottom to top and top to bottom, praying Om Namasivaya.  My heart and mind were fully satisfied on getting this darshan.

It was time for return journey.  I was satisfied to some extent.  It was like getting good marks aiming hundred!  Even though I could not go round Nandhi hills the dharshan of holy Nandhi hills before Kailash satisfied me.

We started returning.  The organiser from chennai, who went alone on the other side, could go some distance on Nandhi hill and he bought some earth also.  He said he met some yatris from Singapore who camped there for two days to do nandhi parikrama.  (“It will be very tough and it requires help from two to three helpers to take a yatri between holy kailash and nandhi hills on the snow valley” he said.  Contrary to the looks, the valley between Kailash and Nandhi hills will be dangerous and crossing it requires ropes in which yatris has to hang and porters will push them by hanging on the rope – he further said).  One had to prepare very well for this yatra and many yatris suffer here he said.  (even in southern part of India in Shiva temples there is a rule that between Nandhi and Shiva no body should cross. We could find many such similarities between Kailash and our temples.  Nandhi’s position before Shiva may be a replica of Kailash –the abode of Lord Shiva parvathy!).

It would have taken another five to six hours from the point we stopped to go near Kailash.  As I thought earlier I could not find any caves on the way!  The only halting point was the Buddhist monastery. (And the temporary camp by the Malaysian yatris).

On the way, I took a green colour stone big enough to chisel a small shiv lingam.  I wanted to have “ athma lingam”(stone from Kailash), but in this place I thought everything is Holy.  I took the stone, turned towards holy Nanthi and Kailash and prayed.  It was heavy to carry initially but heavier later on.  There were stones of various colours all over the place.  We took photos and video of holy Kailash and Nandhi.

Passing snow formed on the river, and its beds, we carefully crossed a small cutting.  Due to the presence of small stones, the path was slippery.  A co yatri was feeling very bad at this point, and my porter took care of him.  Small toffees and gems came handy.  At some points, I could walk fast.  The path seemed never ending.  We were thirsty and tired.  To visit holy Nandhi parikrama, we require minimum three days, I thought.

We saw a big rat, which looked like a dog!  When I looked through the zoom of my video camera only, I felt sure it was rat!  We met some more yatris who were returning from the Nandhi base.  We could not talk much.  On the way, there were no clouds over Holy Kailash and we took photos.

We returned to our base camp at Tarchen, at 18 30 hrs.  I thanked God for the kindness and Dharshan offered to us. 

With prayers, I went to bed with peaceful mind.

Day 12 :  22^nd June 2002:  at Tarchen (4700m / 14975 feet):

Today was “Maha pradosham” day (when pradosham day falls on Saturday it was maha pradosham day).   There was no work today.  I thought getting nandhi and kailash darshan today would be memorable.  We were very tired and we had to start outer parikrama also next day.  Another option was if we went another 10km by road we could get nandhi and kailash darshans together.  But the drivers refused to take the vehicles (they were taking rest!).  God would have felt, this lad could not trek on a fasting day and gave darshan a day earlier, I thought.

We took complete rest .  I put cassettes praising Shiva Parvathy.  At this time, we came to know that one of our yatris who was sick, was in bad condition.  We went to his room.  He has not taken proper food for many days.  He vomited whatever he took.  At this time, our Chinese guide got one doctor.  On seeing his condition, he immediately rushed back and got his assistants and medicines.  He made a temporary stand and put saline mixed with many medicines.  He asked us to put wet cloth over the fore head also for some time.  This much of medical facility I did not anticipate.  We thanked the doctor profusely.  He gave some medicines to take for 3 days.  We were around him giving encouraging words.

In the after noon, he became somewhat steady.  The organisers planned to return him down to get better medical treatment.  At this time three more yatris who were affected by some other ailments also planned to return to lower altitudes (to Katmandu).  They felt they could not do Kailash parikrama.  After getting special visa by paying extra yuwans all the four yatris returned in the afternoon.  One of the Nepali cook who was very smart joined them for help.  We sent them back to Katmandu in one van, requesting the cook to take care of the person who was given treatment.   All the four yatris took bath in Manasarover and had fentastic darshan of Kailash – Dakshina moorthy with us in this yatra.  We asked them to pray for us to complete Kailash parikrama.

Somebody said, that a group of yatris from India through External Affairs Ministry had come.  I went with my co yatri in search of them.  I could not find anybody but we met yatris from Delhi.  I told them to engage yaks since I felt ladies might have problems and if they felt alright they could walk and nothing wrong in engaging. (Senior yatri you see- I can advise!).

In the Pradosham time (between 4 30 and 6 00 A/N), I took my sloka book and sat in a cement platform (earlier it was place for Homa Gundam).  I recited 1008 names of Dakshina moorthy facing Him.  I have not done this earlier and immensely enjoyed the moment.  After performing this, I prayed for some time reciting slokas and came back to shed.   (I remember when I came previously, when the Homam was on, from rear side I recited 1008 namas of Rudra).  This year, unfortunately, the Homa Kundams were dismantled and nobody could do homam-facing Kailash.

I prayed shiva parvathy for darshan in Kailash parikrama, which we were going to start the next day.  In the shed hot soup was waiting for me. 

Night dinner was nice (upma-my favorite) and while talking with others, I came to know that a group of yatris from Erode and Delhi were prevented from going to top by Chinese military to day and they have asked for separate visa to go there!  It may be wrong news but it was better to go in very small groups than a larger group.  We went to bed around 10 pm.

Day 13: 23^rd June 2002:  Holy Kasilash parikrama 1st day – Tarchen to Derapuk (4909m)

I got up early in the morning.  Went outside the room and had dharshan of Kailashpathy.  Clouds were playing hide and seek game with Kailash.  We finished our breakfast and put our winter dress.  I put the raincoat, leather jacket, sleeping bag, an extra pair of shoes and socks and the bigger coco cola bottle supplied by the organiser in the main bag and handed over it to organiser for transport.  The collected bags would be transported separately by yaks and handed over to us during night halt.  In the camera bag I took, the packs I made already consisting of toffees, my pooja kit and kneecaps, a small water bottle etc., and handed over it to the porter.  Luckily, the same porter who came with me to Nanthi parvath came and the organiser put him for me. (Infact I told him to come with me for the kora-parikrama).  I put one toffee pack in my jerkin packet also.  On the other packet I inserted the small water bottle.

Cries of “Har Har Mahadev” went up the air, when our vehicles started from Tarchen.  Now, we could go six kms in vans and buses in the Parikrama route on either side of Tarchen. 

Even now, many yatris (mainly Tibetians) walk full round from Tarchen itself and some of them do circumambulation by prostration  - that is they put sasthang namaskaar and walk that distance only and do sasthang namaskaar again.  In this way they do the parikrama of Kailash.  Looking at this, our parikrama of going in vans, yaks and foot looked too small.  I prayed Shiva Parvathy for completion of our parikrama without any problem.  For us from plains this area is totally strange and I thought these Tibetians would have problem in crossing our Anna salai of Chennai in peak hour!. (We cannot compare the bakthi of Tibetians.  They even don’t take bath in Manas.  They say it would become impure if we take bath in it!).

Our vans started with our prayers towards the west.  I looked through the right side window to see Kailash.  I did not want to miss any view of Kailash.  I wanted to walk the full distance, but in a team we have to adjust with everybody. (And mostly it would suit us also!).  

Earlier, I read there were four prostration points around Kailash according to Buddhists.  We prayed kailash from every angle.  Specifically, I wanted to pray at these points.  We crossed the first prostration point (chaktsal –Gang) by van.  There were series of prayer flags at this point.  There was nobody in this area to guide us.  Even the Chinese guide coming with us could not tell about many things I wanted to know.  With the help of books and talking with the learned ones who did parikrama earlier only we can locate areas.   The driver did not stop the vehicle as the vehicle was going away from this point.  I closed my eyes for a moment and prayed shiva parvathy from this area.  We had fantastic darshan of Kailash from this area.  The peak looked like dome with valley on its left.  Our vehicles turned to the valley (valley of Gods). Crossing small streams and stopped at the banks of a river after an hour.  There were fort like walls on either side.  We got down from the vans and waited for the porters and yaks to arrive.

My earlier visit in this route came to my mind.  We stopped almost at the same point.  We wasted more than three hours for yaks and porters to arrive and reached ‘Derapuk’ camp around 5 pm.  We tried to go near Kailash (2 hours trekking), but we could not go since cool breeze sets in.  I prayed shiva to give darshan from close range on the northern side where Kailash looked like Huge Shiv Lingam.

When I asked about “yama Dwar” one of the yatris told me that we had crossed it already.  It was half a km away, up on a small hill.  In my previous visit also I did not go near it.  I went with my cameras, prayed Kailash from there and returned.  I met some Europeans who were trekking at that time.

After testing our patience for two hours the yaks and the porters arrived.  I wanted to save my energy for my visit of going near Kailash.  I decided to go on yak as far as possible.  What I missed last time I wanted to see now.

There was a ‘lot’.  The head yak man had papers - hand written in tibetian language – might be names of yak men – and he asked all the yatris to take one paper.  We formed a queue and took one paper each.  I prayed Nandhi and Shiv ganas and took one paper.  He called the name and a yak man came forward and shown me my yak.

This arrangement was good, since nobody could blame others if something happened.  As I had previous experience with yak, I checked up the cushion (bed sheets) on top.  For a moment, I Prayed Nandhi and Shiv ganas.  The yak man lifted me up.  His materials occupied almost half the area on top and I had to sit in the rear half.  I could not get proper cushion for my – not so good – back (I got injured while playing foot ball a few years back) and the yak man could not understand what I wanted to convey. 

I managed my seat to some extent, and it was difficult whenever we climbed hills.  Since I was sitting at the rear, I had to pull the rope (tied around the neck with bed sheets) – with the result there was strain on my hands also (and certainly strain for yak also).  The yak man watched my plight and understood my problem.  He could not do anything since removing and tying it would have taken a lot of time.

We saw Nyanri compa (Chhuku compa), perched on the hillside above – to our left.  We could not go near it.  (it has image of Chhuku Rimpoche and some treasures rescued from the other compos which were destroyed during cultural revolution).  We could see new prayer flags.  These prayer flags were replaced annually during ‘sakya dawa’ festival on the full moon day in the month of may/June.  We were in June and the full moon day was just a day away.  We thought we could not see the festival, since we were not in the month of May.  (Later we could get the experiences of yatris who came in the month of May.  It was full of ice in Manasarover and nobody could take bath.  Chinese military prevented yatris from doing parikrama they said).  Somebody pointed out that we had come in Tibetian New year – first of new years -horse year- which would come once in twelve years and a very holy one.

After two hours of yak ride, we came to a point where we could see western face of Kailash.  I jumped down from yak.  There was not much snow on holy Kailash this time when compared to my visit in Sep –2000.  May be due to continuous hot climate for the past 3 days.  There were some shops were we took our packed lunch.

I came out of the shop to have the holy darshan of Kailash again.  Here also there were prayer flags tied to a structure.  I prayed from this point also.  Nearby was a place called “Damding Donkhang (4890m) – valley of yaks. 

We started again on yak.  I was looking for the holy Northern face of Kailash.  I knew we had to turn right but the straight path was never ending.  On the sides we could see small water falls flowing from top.   One of the lady yatris fell from yak. After some time her husband also fell from his yak and fortunately without injury they continued.  Our journey continued on the banks of the river and some times on the small hills nearby.  My focus was on my plan to go near Kailash at Derapuk.  I was looking very eagerly for the dharshan at Derapuk

Slowly, I could see the top portion of holy Kailash (as it look from northern side).  When I came earlier, the darshan of northern side was so sudden, I remember that I jumped from the yak!.  Slowly some portion of front hill blocked the view.  When we came around the hill we could have the holy dharshan of kailash.  This was the view I was praying all these days for darshan. To get this view many saints prayed and Kailashpathy showered His blessings on ordinary souls like me, by granting this magnificent view.

On seeing this view, I cooly slipped from yak.  I did not tell any body that I had a plan to go near Kailash.  My porter who was waiting nearby came to me.   I showed my hand towards Kailash.  He nodded his head and handed over his bag to another porter.  At this point my organiser from Nepal came to me.  He told that it was difficult to go near and asked me to return to the camp.  I replied him that I will be back after some time. 

I waited for the other yatris to pass me.  I sat on a rock and checked my cameras, pooja materials like campor etc., there was one water bottle in my bag and I put it in jerkin pocket.

I prayed Shiva parvathi and started.  We were walking from the middle where a small stream of water was flowing.  (May be the snow from Kailash).  The three lower hills in front of Kailash were Manjshree (wisdom), Avaloketeswara (kindnesss) and Vajrapani (power).  We took rest for some time after half an hours trekking.  We had to jump over stones to avoid touching the water.  The holy Kailash looked so near but every time we cross a point there we could see a small hill in front.  When I looked back, the area of Derapuk looked very small.  Sun was slowly setting, and I wanted to go near Kailash early.  But the legs did not cooperate with the mind.  I felt tired and came far behind my porter.  He used to come back and took me with him.  We could see shadows of the right side hill on the left side hill.  Time was around 5 pm and I know I have to rush to have darshan before sun set.

When we were going up, we could see the river we were following was in ice form and deep below we could notice streams of water.  We avoided walking on ice and walked on the sides of the right side hill.  The path was very slippery with small pebbles slipped out when we walked.  The porter and myself joined our hands to pass some stretches.  At a point where we thought we reached Kailash, one more small hill of earth was there (possible landslides from right side hill) and at this point my porter asked me whether we could return. I told him a flat NO and continued.  It took more than half an hour to cover a very small distance but inside my mind I was sure that we are very near.

When we crossed the small hill, there was Kailash.  I could not control my joy.  I did sasthang namaskaaram.  There was a small heap covered with snow in the bottom, which I thought was Nandhi.  I sat at a point nearby and had the wonderful darshan of Holy Kailash.  I recited a phrase from Rudram.  I wanted to recite the slokas known to me by heart, but words failed to come.  I stopped and had holy dharshan only for some time.  At this point, I could see a co yatri in our batch also who came before me was returning.  I could not speak much.  I took video and still photos.  There was a flash in my mind whether to go and touch the holy Kailash.  I decided not to touch and spoil the holiness.  I lighted campor in front of Holy Kailash (it was difficult due to cool breeze) and recited “mangalashtakam” – a song praising Shiva.  I prayed for the welfare of everybody known to my family and friends and prayed for Kailasaprapthy for the past, present and future generations of my family did namaskaars and started my return journey.

I wanted to take a moortham (a small stone).  I was searching for a good one.  After some distance on the banks of icy stream, I saw some eyes looking at me.  I moved it with my walking stick.  It was a fairly big stone. (4” x 6 “x 6”).  I took it by hand.  I could not believe my eyes!  It resembled Kailash by shape.  It had eyes, nose and mouth shaped colour lines naturally formed over it.  When I showed it to my porter he was also surprised!  I looked behind and thanked Kailashpathy for the prasadam He gave.

Sun was slowly setting.  Now, we walked down over the ice river.  To fulfill the wishes of me, Kailashpathy melted and formed this ice river for me to walk – I thought.  On my earlier visit I could not walk much like this and I walked with interest for more than half km.  At some places where ice was thin, we avoided and switched to sides.  I met one more yatri, sitting on a rock at this point.  He did not want to go further, since it was already late.  He asked me how far it was and I did not want to discourage him by saying it would take another one hour.  Time was 6pm.  Our base camp we could see.  I saw the sun trying to go behind a hill.  At this point our organiser from chennai came.  He wanted to go up.   I could not speak much and I showed him the sun and the shade of the nearby hill.  He proceeded further.  Thanking for the efforts, I gave 50 yuwans for my porter, which he gladly accepted.  Without him, I could not have made it.  I thanked him.

When I came to camp I could notice the sun setting completely, resulting in red clouds and changing the colour of Kailash.  I took my cameras and recorded it.  In this holy Nithya Pradosham time, I again prayed God.

In the Derapuk camp, I could notice improvements.  It was plastered outside.  Many tents I could spot where yatris stay.  When I came earlier there was nobody except our group.  (Infact, that was on full moon day).

After some time, other yatris came to me and asked about the trip.  When I showed the moortham I picked up near Kailash, there was surprise on every face.  I placed the moortham on a towel and put it inside the clothes and placed it in the main bag.

There was a homam by our yatris facing Kailash.  I gave honey and holy ash.  I could not attend it as I was taking rest in my bed.  The smell of homam, the happenings of the day took me to Nitra Devi.  At 9pm, the servers offered dinner.  I took a little food and slept.

        

Day 14:  24^th june 2002:  Second day  parikrama – Derapuk – Dolma pass (5650m)- Zuthulpuk

We got up early today.  We knew this day was a very important trekking day.  We had to cross Dolma pass, which was the highest point on our trekking route.  We finished our breakfast at 5 am.  When our organizer, wanted us to start, I purposefully delayed for another 45 minutes.  I thought yaks would start around 6 am only and we had to wait for that somewhere else.

The main purpose of my delaying was to have “Ponnar menian” (Golden colour darshan) of Holy Kailash.  I could not see this on my previous visit as we had started at 5 am.  The purpose of starting early was to avoid any possible problems in Dolma pass, and the organizers normally make us cross Dolma before 11am.

Today, we could see clouds on the eastern side.  There were not much clouds all these days.  We could see some clouds over Kailash also.  Looking at the northern view of Kailash, in day time was memorable.  The Sun God showered his first rays on Kailash.  Clouds tried to block it, smoothened it and showered it on Kailash.  The resultant view was fantastic.  The clouds turned golden.  We could see holy Kailash slowly turning its white colour into golden colour. 

“What a glorious sight to see.!”  We were so stunned, we could not pray at that time!  It was present only for a few seconds and Kailash turned white.  We hurriedly took photos and video.  The golden colour was not so thick as I had seen in some photos.  That may be due to the clouds and lesser snow on Kailsah, I thought.  Nevertheless, it was a wonderful experience and I thanked God for this Dharshan.

   

We started around 6 am.  Even at that time, yak men were not ready.  With cries of Har Har Mahadev, we started.  We crossed river Lha Chu on a wooden bridge.  (If we continued our journey further with the river, we would reach source of Indus river).  We crossed the bridge and climbed up the hill.  After some distance we could see our co yatris sitting, waiting for the yaks and we joined them.

I was fully satisfied.  Whatever I wanted to see in this yatra I could see.  Theerthapuri hot water springs, Nandhi hills, Asthapad, going near North face of Kailash, Darshan of Golden Kailash from Derapuk ,all I had in this yatra.  If we cross Dolma without any problem the yatra would be a successful one, I thought.

Slowly, yaks arrived.  We got over the yaks.  My yak man had re – arranged his materials on top.  When the yak was going up, I had problems in adjusting.  I could not sit properly. I thought I will slip down on steep gradients.if I sat in the rear of the Yak.

When I came earlier, I could not see any thing.  We left Derapuk before sunrise (5 am) and the climate was very chill and areas were under mist at some points.  Now, I could see all the areas. Sun was there shining, but the cold wind blowed the hotness of its rays. 

We could see many Tibetians.  I never thought so many will come for the Kora (parikrama).  Many came with their wives and children!.  I did not see them in Derapuk.  They would have started their Kora from Tarchen in the night.  While we walk and also use yak for doing parikrama, that too in three days, the Tibetians complete the parikrama in one day.

They laugh at us while going on yak.  (but they are very kind and helpful).  They were in hundreds.  The group leader told me, that since it was full moon day the crowd was more and for them the full moons on may/ june is auspicious he said.  We waved our hands at them and they also responded. 

The snow covered pass on the right side is “Khado Sanglam”(5212 m).  They consider a lion faced Dakini Goddess protects it and only pilgrims on their 13 th circuit only can cross it.  At Shiva-Tsal (5330 m) we had a wonderful darshan of Kailash.  We could see the same view we got at North face and its extension.  It was like Shiva lingam and “Avudaiyar”.  Our yaks stopped there for few minutes.  We took photos there.  After some time, we got down from the yaks and started walking. (a break for yaks and for us too!).  We slowly approached Dolma pass.  From a distance it looked as if we could walk easily.  After some time, the yaks crossed us.  Some of the yatris, were already on yaks.  After a yak ride of a few hours, we liked to walk some time so that the thigh muscles loosened up. We were crossing many stones, jumping on them.  I wanted to see the “sin testing stone” (Dikpa Kamak), but could not identify it.  (it is said that a sinner could not pass through it).  May be I didnot want to take risk!

Now we were on yaks again.  We crossed a small stream of water and headed up.  We were going on Dolma pass.  It was steep – so steep in many places that I could hear the palpitations of the yak and feel it on its stomach.  I jumped down to walk.  After some time when I went on yak, I could not sit comfortably, and on seeing my conditions other yatris came with me shouted.  I could not sit at all.  Holding the ropes on a steep slope, I pulled it resulting in the loosening up of the rope.  Due to this, I was slipping out.  On hearing the warning calls, I coolly slipped down from its back and started walking.

There was problem for a yatri couple also.  Their respective yaks pushed them down again.  Even after hearing the frantic calls of the lady yatri, the yak men did not turn up.  I shouted at them to go near the lady yatri and then only they moved a bit.  Yaks do not obey their masters.  On plain ground we thought, they listened to their whistles but even then, they went as they wished.

There was snow on the surface.  At some places it was like ice cones from the ground.  On seeing me walking, the head yak man asked me to go on the yak of the lady yatri who fell down. (On sign language!), I accepted his offer, and got up on the yak.  This yak was comfortable for me.  The ropes were tied on a wooden block (instead of clothes of my previous yak) and the ropes were tight.  I could sit on it in the front side, since there was not much luggage of the yak man tied on the front. 

The yak walked through rocks.  It was difficult to watch on either side of the yak.  If we were not careful our legs may hit the rocks.  I could watch the top of Dolma now.  The colour flags tied on top were visible.  I got down from the yak and slowly walked towards it.  I sat on a nearby rock and watched the surroundings.  I could find many Tibetians at that point.  Many yatris were tying new ropes, and colourful prayer flags.  A young Tibetian lady was seen praying towards a boulder (which was completely covered by the flags).  The boulder on top represented Dolma Devi – a powerful Goddess (Tara Devi in Sanskrit).  I came towards it and prayed there and did Sastang Namaskaarams.  Tibetians leave something here (like drops of blood, hair, small clothes etc.,) and take some thing (prayer flags etc., attached to the rock) as her prasadam.  This was the spiritual and physical high point of the Parikrama (19,500 feet) and considered very important.

We took photos there and slowly started climbing down.  Some Tibetians lit “dhoop” (Sambrani) on a rock in a big heap.  I took some and put it on the fire.  The good smell added to the holiness of the area. 

After some time, we could see the holy Gouri Kund (the lake of mercy).  (Normally, nobody took bath here, since there was a belief that Mata Parvathy took her bath here).  It was down below from the trekking path and the porters went down and brought the holy water as Prasadam.

At this point, waiting for the holy water to arrive, I sat on a rock and took video.  There were ice blocks on the green waters of the pond.  Snow was seen at many places around the pond and beyond.  For a person from the south, certainly it was a fascinating sight.  One Tibetian yatri showed me the sun and two beautiful rainbows!  One was around the sun and the second was some distance behind it!  It was a fantastic sight to watch.

We jumped on the rocks to get down from the top of Dolma.  It was tough for some time and once we were used it, we walked fast.  With interest, I watched a Tibetian doing Parikrama leaping on the rocks upside down- putting a line- jumped to that point – and continued going up on his Sastang parikrama!

The lady yatri who was struggling, was seen escorted by the organizer.  I saw the valley and the small tents down below near a river.  My speed went up on seeing the tents.  We came down after trekking about two hours from Dolma.  Some yatris were there already.  There was some cooked food brought by the porters and we took it.  Unable to continue after food, I slept on the green grass for some time.

The climate was changing fast.  We could see dark clouds and suddenly drizzle started.  We could notice small ice particles.  We hurriedly went inside a tent.  Many were standing already.  The importance of coming down early, we understood here.  (If we were on top, and rain comes – there would be no place to hide).

I opened my umbrella, to go out.  Suddenly, it got turned upside down and some rods broken.  I brought it to the tent in the same shape.

After some time, the sky got cleared and we started walking.  I went on the left side of the river and crossed it jumping on rocks.  These rocks were slippery.  We walked for half an hour to rest at a place, we thought yaks would arrive (from the sides of the valley).  The organizers were waiting there already and after an hour the yaks arrived.  I could not locate Shabje Drakthock where Buddha’s foot prints on a huge rock were believed to be present.  The camp where we were going to stay in the night was nowhere in sight upto the end of valley, which was far off.  The main part of yatra was over by this time and we shifted to yak mode immediately.  Yaks were listening to the whistles.  But if they saw water or grass they would go near it.  The ride was monotonous except for the pushing down of a lady yatri near the water (again!).  On seeing a horse (a weak one!)  all the yaks got frightened and pushed the lady down.  My yak was coming on the rear with the yak of an another lady yatri and I did not face any problem.  But we used to warn other yatris if our yak came near them.

Suudenly, I got the darshan of Kailash peak.  Earlier, I thought we could not see Kailash from the east.  I shouted and asked the head yak man Kailash! Kailash!.  He bowed his head and confirmed it.!.  The darshan was for a very little time and I could not take my camera out!  (this area was another prostration point.  I bowed my head (from the yak) and thanked Shiva for the kindness.

Even after an hour’s ride, the view of our camp ‘zuthul puk’ was nowhere in sight.  My leg muscles were paining and I decided to walk the balance distance.  I slipped out of the yak and started walking.  It was enjoyable since I was not tired.  I could see many Tibetian yatris and their families on the way.  After an hour’s trekking, I could see our camp.  There was a water falls on the left side near the camp.  The water from the falls was fully frozen.  It was a wonderful sight.  Even the lines were visible on the falls. 

I went to the camp.  Some yatris were there already.  It was a tough day and by the grace of God we came without much problem.   The welcome tea was tasty and we waited for dinner.  We slept immediately after dinner.

DAY  15:  25^th june 2002 (Zuthulpuk – Tarchen – Hore):

We got up only at 7 am.  There was no hurry from the oranizers.  We could walk down to Tarchen in five hours time.  We started at 8 am.  Most of us preferred walking.  Some preferred yak ride.  We walked on the banks of a river.  There was joy in the walking as we were completing the Holy Parikrama.  We went up on the small hills and came down to the banks of the river and after four hours of trekking we could see lake Rakshas tal.  Our speed went up on seeing a shop.  We took coke there and waited for others to arrive.  After an hour our organizers also came. 

Dropping the luggages, the yaks went down the valley..  We paid tips to the yak men.  We thanked the yaks (we consider them as Shiv ganas – helping to see God).

After some time, the vehicles arrived at this point.  Tarchen was just two kms away.  We boarded the vans and the vans started towards Hore.  On seeing this, I shouted and stopped my van.  I hurriedly went behind and asked the oranizer to turn the vehicles towards Tarchen and it was not right to divert from kora route.  I had plenty of time and would have walked the remaining distance in an hour’s time.  I told him, that I want to go to the point where I started.  The drivers also understood the logic and all the vans turned towards Tarchen.

At Tarchen, I made sastang namskaarms facing Holy Kailash.  I controlled the tears.  God had given me a second Parikrama of holy Kailash.  I prayed to him again and again.

We went to the telephone exchange and had a talk with my family.  My wife was very happy.  She asked me if I had completed Nandhi parikrama also.  I told her that I saw  the Nandhi hill !.

I purchased a small garland (a colourful plastic material) for 30 yuwans (after bargaining from 100 yuwans asked by the seller) as a remembrance.

Our vans started towards Hore.  We could not have Kailash darshan on the way, due to the clouds on Kailash.

We occupied the rooms in Hore.  Some of us went in a van to take holy Manasarover water in cans.  We collected all the cans and went to the Manas.  The driver went for more than one hour on the shores.  We were telling jocularly that  we were doing Manas parikrama again!

At a point the driver thought that depth was not much, and stopped the van.  We went with all the cans to the shore.  Initially only two of us went inside to collect the holy water and we put the lids sitting on the shore.  Later I entered the Manas and stood there in some depth (folding pants) and prayed Manas.

We started collecting Moorthams again.  I got a small stone with two colours (white on the top and black at the bottom – representing Shiva shakthi – I explained this to others! and after some time I hit a prize.  I got a Moortham resembling a “car”.  I thought God had given me a car.  (Earlier, before coming to Kailash, I had returned a cheque of loan from my office for buying a car – since my share of it had been diverted to my Kailash trip!).  We collected many moorthams and came back to our van.

Later, in the room, we sealed the inner caps with “Araldite”.  This water had to reach our home safely.  We packed and repacked our things until night.

Day 16:  26^th june 2002  (Hore- Paryang):

We started early at 6 30 am.  At the place, we saw Kailash for the first time (on the top of a hill), we stopped our vehicle.  There were clouds everywhere and we had glimpses only for a few seconds.  There was happiness on the faces of everybody.  Taking my video camera I went to each Individual and shared their happiness and asked their experiences of the yatra.  Most of them told that they were very happy and thanked God for the holy darshans all these days.

We took group photos with our drivers, organizers and their staff.  Without their help it would not have been possible for the successful completion of the yatra.  (We could say – we paid money – but money couldnot give this holy experience )

We started our return journey.

We reached Paryang around 7 pm.

Day 17:  27^th june 2002  (Paryang –Saga)

The drive was monotonous and we tried to enjoy the ride by listening to the music of audio cassettes.  By this time we had learned the art of sleeping in the vans inspite of the roughness of the road.

Day 18:  28^th june 2002 (Saga – Nyalam)

We crossed Brahmaputra river in the morning around 9.30.  We waited for the staff to arrive.  It took more than one hour to ferry all our vehicles on the boat.   To kill time we started playing.  We had a competion of  throwing small pebbles for long distances.  After that one of our drivers (senior man) kept an empty bottle.  From a distance we had to hit it with a stone.  Myself and the driver won the match!

At this point, many vans came.  They were yatris from India.  When I went near them I was surprised.  These yatris were from sects who believe in only Maha Vishnu.  There were Namams (3 lines) on their fore head (right from their nose).  I was totally surprised since, mostly in this sect, in the south, they won’t pray Shiva.  On enquiry, they told that they were coming from Hyderabad.  They directed me towards the first car where their head a “ Jeeyar “was sitting.  I went to him and offered my namaskaarams.  During our talk, he asked me about Asthapad and other areas and the climate.  Most of them were fatty persons.  I suggested to him that engaging of yaks was a must.  Decency prevented me from asking the purpose of their visit and  I came back to continue the journey.

In the car, there was talk about them.  Why these people came here and so on.  I was particularly upset about their not telling “Namasivaya” when I greeted them with the holy panchatcharam.  No - I was not averse to Maha Vishnu.  I prayed Him also, to help me in getting Kailash darshan.  But I did not like some followers who are fenatics.  Now  a days things are changing (for better).  I could find many vaishnavities in shiva temples of south.

On the banks of Brahmaputra where our vehicles stopped, I took a nice bath.  On seeing me some others also followed.  I packed all my winter clothings in my bag and put a new T shirt which gave me a lot of freshness and suddenly I felt my weight got reduced!.

We reached “Nyalam” in the evening and enjoyed a comfortable stay.

DAY 19:  29^TH JUNE 2002 : (Nyalam – Kathmandu)

We started around 7 am.  We came to the point where Chinese authorities checked our passport around 11. 30 am.  It was only a formality.  I put my video camera in the van and I packed all the Moorthams I collected in the main bag (to be sent in the lorry).  If they prevented taking Moorthams, I would lose good ones I thought.  Checking individual bags from a lorry would be impossible and time consuming.  They had a customary look on this and allowed the vehicles out!

We were asked to assemble in a line and they allowed us to go out of exit gate.  We started our van journey.  The sky was clear and there were fresh green plants everywhere.   Possibly, it would have rained the previous days.  We stopped mid way to enjoy the scenery for some time.

Slowly, we came down to the valley.  It was time to get down from the vans.  We had a tearful farewell with the drivers.  We hugged each other.  Earlier we paid equalent to Rs.500 IR as tips to the drivers and the organizer on our behalf gave it to them.  We unloaded our bags from the vans.  I engaged a smart boy and gave my bags and water cans to him.  He took the bags and crossed over to the Nepal border and waited for me!.

The authorities checked us with reference to our visa and passport and allowed us to go out.  When I crossed the bridge, I had a sigh of relief of going out of China and entering Nepal.

With the ‘welcome to Nepal’ greetings from a friendly staff of Nepal custom authorities we entered Nepal.  I filled EMB. forms of mine and  some co yatris and handed them over it to the authorities.  Our bus was waiting for us and the boy came with me and neatly put my luggage inside the bus.  Organizers from Nepal who came in the bus greeted us. There were some landslides enroute, but were cleared immediately.  We stopped for lunch at 3 pm in a star hotel.  We checked in the hotel at Kathmandu around 6 pm.

   

DAY 20:  30^th June 2002 (Kathmandu – Bangalore)

Our flight was at 9 am.  We finished a light breakfast in the hotel and started our journey to the airport. When we reached the Airport at about 7 am, I had a shock of my life when they told us that the flight was full and we could not fly!  It seemed they overbooked the tickets and filled up on “first come first served basis”.  In fact, our organizer called the Air port authorities from Hotel.  Here they said that, there was no such phone – check in facility and our batch could not fly.  I was not a regular flier, and I thought like in trains if we had confirmed reservations there would not be any problem.  Next flight to Bangalore was only after 2 days!

We called our Nepali organizers, who had left the airport by that time.  When they came again and talked in Nepali language, they said they could arrange tickets for New Delhi (flight was in the Afternoon) and subsequent flight to Bangalore (in the night).  There was no other go.  In the airport, we left all our luggages (which were security checked already) and left in a van to the office of Royal Nepal Airlines.  Our Nepali organizers some how got the confirmed tickets for both the flights.  I tried to re book to Chennai for which they did not accept – since it was a different airlines).

I called my friend at Bangalore, who had reserved a ticket for the Chennai train of this day,and requested to cancel it.  There was confusion about accommodation, return reservation etc.,

We boarded the IA flight in the afternoon.  While others carried the holy Manas water with them, I prayed God and booked it in the luggage.  The cans arrived safely.

In the New Delhi airport also, when the staff were told “ we were Kailash yatris”, we were treated with respect and they took all our consignment in one box and loaded it in the flight.  We reached Bangalore around 9 pm.  I booked a room in The city station retiring room where myself and a co yatri from Chennai stayed.

DAY 21: 1^st july 2002 (Bangalore – Chennai)

I could get two tickets for the morning train, by standing in queue in the early hours of booking and we returned to Chennai around 1 pm.  There were many people to receive my co yatri and I also got some garlands.  My co yatri after getting down at his house, sent me in his vehicle to reach my home.

I went to my pooja room, placed all the luggages before God, and did ‘sastang namaskaaram’.  God has taken me in this holy yatra for the second time. I prayed for forgiveness for all the mistakes I committed knowingly or unknowingly in the yatra.  I thanked Him for the kindness shown to me and prayed Him for the welfare of all who directly or indirectly helped me in doing the holy Kailash manasarover yatra. 

I looked at the picture of Shiva I was praying daily. I felt there was smile on his face. With tears in eyes, I could not control my emotions.

As I dreamt, He had not given darshan as “Rishaparoodar” (Shiva, Parvathy on Nandhi) in Kailash.

Dreams never end.  

OM  NAMA SHIVAYA